Replaced my big useless clock with a tach which works great. Hooked up a supposedly functional small clock (which came with the harness) exactly as I have read 800 times on this board that it should be hooked up. It doesn't work. I looked around hoping for something simple like "you need a new such and such", or "crimp the such and such to the such and such". COuldn't find such dumbed down instructions. Instead I read that 75% of pulled clocks don't really work. I also read something about how 12 volts should be going to the clock from the harness and whether or not the tach is failing to accomplish this. Uh....what? I'm a novice at this stuff...can someone explain how I can tell that without frying my dash? I also read perhaps it could be capacitors (what are they, how many are there, what do they do???) that need to be replaced. Then, just before my brain started to short circuit, I read something about pullout caps, microfarads, and decouplers in ECUS. Oh yea, and is it "grounded". I understand the concept of grounding, but how do I know if my clock is grounded. No idea whatsoever. I'm a ninny. I just want my clock to work. Can someone tell me what to do to accomplish the above things, whatever it may involve? I refuse to pay anyone to work on the dash of this car as I'm spending enough on other more serious work. I know I definitely need the bezel and the three rubber feet for the clock. Can anyone help me, in layperson's terms, fix my clock? I've also been trying to find a picture of a back of a properly wired clock to see if perhaps there's a little piece broken off where the green wire attaches. It looks like it should be a double prong. Ughhh. :(

You will have to pry the bezel off of the clock after drilling a small hole in it. Once open you will need to solder in new capacitors from Radio Shack. Now carefully crimp the cover back on. It should now work. It is a bit of work and maybe the aftermarket radio is a better idea than fixing the old clock, your choice.
Charles

I partially wrecked the bezel on my small clock when opening it up to replace the capacitors. That worked out OK because the plastic trim piece that goes over the front of the clock hides the messed up metal bezel ring.

As for replacing the capacitors - if you've soldered a few things in the past it should be pretty doable. If you've never soldered (and unsoldered, which is actually called desoldering) then it becomes an exercise in learning new skills as well as buying a new tool and some solder (maybe $15 all together???).

The new radio with a clock makes sense as a practical solution. OTOH, if you like having neat working vintage stuff, getting an old clock to work for you is a fun project.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.

I'm glad you have a tacho now, that's quite an improvement. Now for the purposes of having a clock in the car, why not just replace your stock radio with a cheap aftermarket CD player, which will almost certainly have a clock on it. That way you get a working clock and a much better sound system.
--
A smart bomb. The bomb teaches Shakespearean sonnets, ancient cuneiform, relativity, and the Tibetan language. It may know other things. It has no tolerance for rudeness, so ask nicely.

Wish I'd thought of that one. With the digital clock in the new stereo head unit, there are TWO blank spaces for useful gauges. AND - chances are that the digital clock will be adequately visible and illuminated for all in the car.

What gauges? At very least a voltmeter. The other? An accurate temp gauge? An oil pressure gauge? A manifold vacuum guage to know when gas usage is high.
Ambient temp gauge? There are more to choose from, no doubt.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

I have pulled at least a dozen small clocks from the
salvage yard and only four of them actually worked.

I have now eight non-working clocks in my 240 parts
box, I just can't get myself to toss them out.
Call me nutz.
Joseph in New Mexico

you gave me a chuckle. Sort of like out of date magazines, just can't throw em away for some reason.

WHOA slow down.

In the larger scheme of things, a bum clock is closer to an ant than to an elephant.

If you have connected the clock correctly, using the 3-wire harness from the large tach, it should be lighted when the other instruments are lighted.

Black wire - ground for light and clock.
Red wire - constant power for clock.
Green wire - switched power for light.

If you pull out the clock a little bit, then pull the green wire from the clock and set it aside. Then connect there the red wire, the light should light up. That will mean the clock has power. Put the wires back where they were and reinstall the clock.

There is a very recent post that referred to a post which contained a pictorial of opening the clock (using a Dremel tool) and replacing the two capacitors that are the usual cause of failure. None of the clocks I have pulled ever worked, so expect it.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)