How does one remove an old wheel hub/bearing? There is no mention of how to accomplish this in the FAQ. Given the high torque used for the post-1988 hubs, it might be very difficult to get the old hub/bearing off of the axle stub, especially if the old bearing is heavily worn. Will I need to use a bearing puller? Should I just take it to the shop to get it done?

Steve has posted to my last question about this asking that I update the FAQ, with photos too. I'll be glad to, but I don't want to get stuck pulling my car apart on the weekend and not be able to get the old bearing off, have it break and leave the inner race on the axle, or be unable to get the new hub/bearing on. Especially as I live out in the middle of nowhere and would have a great deal of difficulty getting a rental if I bugger up. Any help here will be credited in my write up for the FAQ.
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)

I had no issues on my 90 740 turbo. I got ahold of a 36mm socket and had no problems with only a 2-foot old (way off calibration) torque wrench. I actually had more problems getting off the alignment pin because it was such a small nut that I only had small wrenches. I think I resorted to a crescent wrench and made sure I got it really tight.

Why do you want to take it off btw? By all accounts, and my investment, the bearings are not replaceable if they're worn.

-Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

Am taking it off to replace it with a new hub/bearing assembly, because the bearings in the old one are shot. They are just about loud enough at 30 mph to prevent conversation.

Do you think I'm going to have any trouble getting the old hub/bearing assembly off? I have a gear/bearing puller and a pretty good assortment of other heavy duty tools. Just don't want to get caught with the damn thing coming off partially, say leaving the inner race on the axle stub, and being unable to use the car.
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)

I think you'll be okay. I understand how it is being out in the boonies (8 miles to the nearest point in town).
Mine just yanked off now that I remember it. The problem I had was not that the bearing race came apart when removing them, but when installing them. The retainer pulls the bearings into the housing, so when pulling it off it all should stay in one piece.
Putting them on is a little tricky... I think my post made it to the FAQ.
I re-used the nut one time when I took it off prior to doing the removal.
I was also replacing the warped rotors, so I used a metal hammer on them (not rubber). The wheel studs can be *easily* pounded out from the front, not double nutted out.

The tricky bits are:
-removing the "wheel locator pin" (and remembering it is there haha)
-knocking the rotor off the hub (gently)
-not dangling the calipers from the brake lines and tearing the lines (use wire or coffee cans)
-not damaging the threads on the studs (pad them before striking or order new with the hubs from FCP for ...$1.25 each?)
-not having the bearing "outer race" separate when reinstalling the hubs (see my post in the FAQ :] )

It's not a terribly long process. The studs will fit into the new hub without too much of an issue and will tighten themselves in with the lug nuts. You might want to take it for a short spin (under 30mph?) to make sure none of them will loosen up before hitting the highway.

Have fun! It's really an okay job. No packing bearings or anything. Also, if you have ABS now is a really good time to hit the ABS tone sensors and tone wheel with a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner (chlorine will corrode the aluminum bits). There's no other time when they're so exposed.

Another too-long post! oh no!
-Will

Thanks for the help, Will.

I had wondered about that part of the FAQ. And, not only did you advise me to be careful, but when the part arrived today, guess what? The outer race had come loose. So, that part of the FAQ is gonna get read real good.

Also, BTW, the part I got from Tasca Volvo is a genuine Volvo part, and already has the studs in it, making it that much easier. The whole assembly is made by SKF for Volvo, and probably top-quality too.
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)

Not familiar with the 700 front end. Am I correct in assuming it is a sealed bearing as apoosed to a separate race and bearing like the 200's?

IF the bearing breaks and the inner race part is stuck to the spindle, do you have a small grinder? you can grind it thin enough to break it off the spindle. Even if you knick the spindle, The bearing are riding on the race, not spinning on the spindle..no harm done. I have done this with rear axle Pinion Bearings.
So at least you know you will be able to get the old part off
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Thanks for the reminder. That is how to remove the rear axle bearings on an RX-7, which I have done. I completely forgot about that trick when thinking about the Volvo. Works well, if not terribly fast.

Actually that is how the retaining collar that holds the RX-7's rear axle bearing is removed (new one gets pressed on with a big hydraulic press), but I get the idea, and still thank you for jarring my memory.
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)

I had that apart to replace toasted brake dust shields.
The hard part was removing one large hex nut which came off easily with
my electric impact wrench from harbor freight.
Its good if you're on good terms with someone that can lend you a big socket..
It might have been 36MM I forget.
I think the nut didn't want to budge with a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' handle
and it spun off with the impact wrench.

Bill

I just emailed you images from the Green Book: let me know if you did not receive these.
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See the 700/900 FAQ at the select shortcut button on the top right of the screen.

Hi Steve,

Just read the info on replacing wheel hub assembly.

Is there any chance that you could kindly e-mail these Green Book pictures as well?

Thanks in advance.

rhodee


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1988 765TFM46 project car

Got them, thanks Steve. Will do a proper write up with photos and submit it to you for the FAQ. Should get to it this weekend.
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)