Okay Guys, Here's the new thread and here's the deal. I've been converting

an '82 245 D24 diesel to an '83 gas engine setup from a donor car. I've also

incorporated several parts/systems from an '84. So this car kind of reminds

me of an old Johnny Cash song. Anyway, to recap and bring everyone up to date,

I'll summarize our progress. We are at the point of tryimg to get the car to

start. Thanks to many of you here on the BB (Lucid, goatman, Sdewolf,etc.) we

have achieved spark afetr replacing everything in the ignition system with new

parts except for the Ignition Control Unit itself which is used. I even

installed those special Volvo sleeves on all of the individual pins of the ICU

connector to ensure good contact and everything is now working great in the

ignition department. Now onto the next dilemma-fuel, or more correctly- lack

of fuel. Lucid had left a reply to my previuos post about checking some of the

relays in the fuel system but I'm still confused about something. What do the

numbers in you're post correspond to? Are these referenced in the Bentley

manual somewhere? Someone please clarify this for me so I can take the next

step. I had left a previous reply regarding the possibility of replacing

both of the fuel pumps with new because the ones I have on there now are from

the '83 donor car and I have no idea what there age is. Also pretty much

everything on this car that is a normal Volvo wear-item has been replaced with

new or rebuilt parts. So, still no start. Where to begin now? With the fuel

system I'm sure. And as always, thanks in advance for all of your help,

Charles

Hi,


Charles, could you summarize the problem?


Thanks,
Goatman

Hello again,


I have a question for you kit. Did you replace the piston rings? Just asking.

Here is the Volvo information that you requested. I hope that you find it as useful as I did.

You might put fuel injectors from a 5 cylinder. Mine seem to be working really well. They fit right in and the connectors are identical.


Goatman

Thanks for the info and pics goatman. I didn't change the piston rings. When I

had the head off I checked and there wasn't any ridge on the cylinder walls.

I replaced the main and rod bearings and had the head reworked so I pretty much

rebuilt the engine except for the rings. I'll keep you guys posted on my

progress. Thanks again, Charles

Charles,

As a further point of reference for this new thread, my last post is repeated below, where I described the LH 2.0 fuel relays and their significant wires and wire colors, relating them to the relay terminal numbers.

Given that you have rewired the FI and Ignition systems I assumed you knew how these common relays were configured. They are shown as items 9 and 15 in the diagram on page 4A-27 in the Haynes manual, which I assume you have.

I also assume that Goatman is referring to a 3-pin connector near the ECU (under the glove box). It has two Fuel relay-related wires that we may need to check out later, if relay operation is found to be OK.

But I prefer to start with the simple, observable circuit objectives first (the control relays), then work back if necessary — rather than dig into circuit details before we even know which relays are failing — or not.

Why the double-spacing now? IMO, it doesn't help reading your posts any more than packing the text into a massive block. I found the shorter paragraphs you were using lately to be much more readable.

EDIT: I used the term "pick" because it's shorter than "energize the coil". You can hear a relay pick (click) if you are close and not distracted by other noise. You can also feel it with your fingers — it's an electro-mechanical action inside the relay case.

You can also hear/feel a relay "drop" when the coil is de-energized. Pick and Drop are just old terms that work for me and seem relatively intuitive.

Copied from previous thread:
================>
Before you start swapping in pumps, you need to check out what controls them, starting with the 2 relays associated with the FI system.

I don't know the relays' exact (inside firewall) location on your conversion, but do know how they (should) work. They are both the same Bosch metal-case "cube" relays (others would work, but again, I'm assuming you scavenged the stock OE types).

• The "System" relay [Red wire to 30 and bridged to 86, two output wires from 87, Brown and Orange] should "pick" and stay picked as long as the key is on. If this doesn't happen, suspect the 25 Amp blade fuse uner the hood, or fuse 12 or 13 (Blue/Red output wires).

• The "Fuel" relay doesn't "pick" until the ECU completes its coil ground side,
which happens when the ECU senses Ignition pulses from the Coil negative terminal #1 (Red/White wire). This assumes that all of the following are good:

a) The System relay is OK and powered the ECU (Brown wire to ECU #9)
b) The Fuel relay coil power is good from fuse 12 or 13 (Blue/Red wires), which also powers ECU #18.
c) The Fuel relay coil (Blue/Green wire) gets grounded from ECU #17 when ignition pulses are detected as mentioned above.
<==========
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Hello,


There is a three pole connector at the Fuel ECU. This provides the power to the fuel pumps. It is really dark in my bedroom and I'm too lazy to turn on the light and find the wiring diagram now. Sorry

You should try starting fluid and see if she fires off. I will post some more data later after my last final for the semester. WHOOT!!


Goatman

Hey Guys, I printed the pics and info that you posted goatman and took them down to the garage, Thanks. It really helped! I jumpered the blue/red and the

red/yellow wires at the 3-pole connector and found that the tank pump ran when the ignition switch was on but the main pump did not. Looking at the wiring diagram that you posted I saw that the power wire for the tank pump is the same

wire for the main pump. I then checked voltage at the main pump power wire and it was good. So it looks like I need a new main fuel pump. I believe this also proves that my fuel pump relays are working correctly too. It figures that it

would be the pricey pump ($155 from FCPGroton and $140 from IPD) instead of the $35 in-tank pump. Please feel free to substantiate or correct my findings. BTW, does anyone know of a less expensive source for a Bosch main fuel pump? Thanks, Charles

"I then checked voltage at the main pump power wire and it was good. So it looks like I need a new main fuel pump. I believe this also proves that my fuel pump relays are working correctly too".

No, the jumper at the 3-pin plug pointed to the failing Main pump*, but it completely bypassed the FI relays. So you'll have to wait till you have a working Main pump to see if the relays work.

Be thankful you have LH because the K-jet Main pump is about $200! Tapping the pump with voltage applied is worth a try.

* Had the Main pump been OK, the jumper might have quickly blown the 8 Amp fuse #12, quite possibly compounding or confusing your efforts. Fuse 12 is not meant to carry Fuel pump current — which normally comes from the 25 Amp blade fuse up near the battery and coil.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Hello,


You might try knocking on the pump with a mallet in the interim while you receive the replacement. Maybe you could get the pump operating to continue troubleshooting. I've had some luck with junkyard pumps; they are always a gamble. Less then $200 seems very reasonable for a new OEM replacement.


Good Luck!!

Hey Guys, I ordered a new Bosch main fuel pump and new hose and clamps from IPD today. I'll let you know ASAP when I get it and when it's installed and working. Thanks, Charles

Hey Guys, I'm back. I know it's been awhile but here's the latest. I received
and installed my new Bosch main fuel pump that I got from IPD. With the jumper

installed the pump runs when the ignition switch is in the run position just as the book says it should. I then turned the ignition off and removed the

jumper wire and tried starting the car. No go. So onto the next thing. I went to the Bentley once again and started trying to troubleshoot the fuel system

and pump relays as described on pages 241-10 and 241-11 for the LH-2.0 system. Since the relays are identical I tried the tests and one had voltage (at

terminal 87) and the other one didn't. My first question at this point is how do I tell which relay is which? And the next question of course is where do I

go from here? The book simply states to "repair the wiring faults using the appropriate wiring diagram". A pretty bland statement to say the least! Thanks, Charles

"My first question at this point is how do I tell which relay is which? And the next question of course is where do go from here? The book simply states to "repair the wiring faults using the appropriate wiring diagram"."

Hi Charles,

I think you can skip the Bentley on this one, since they don't even say which relay the test is for. If you have a Haynes, there is a diagram we could refer to. But for now, here's the deal on the relays.

The SYSTEM relay has a double Red on terminal 30. One Red comes in from the 25 amp fuse by way of FUEL relay 30 (25A feeds both relays). The other Red is a short jumper to the System coil terminal 86. The coil energizes ("picks) when the ECU grounds the Y/R wire at terminal 85, which goes the ECU 21. With the relay picked, it has output voltage on terminal 87. The Brown wire goes to ECU 9, the Orange wire goes to AMM 9.

The FUEL Relay also has 25 amp fuse +12V on Terminal 30. Terminal 86 (coil) gets +12V on the Blue/Red wire via fuse 12 when the Key is On. The same +12 "jumpers" off to ECU 18 at terminal 86 (should see two B/R wires at the plug).

This relay also needs a ground on the coil terminal 85, via the Blue Green wire which comes from ECU 21. The ECU will/should ground that wire when it gets Coil #1 pulses on ECU #1 during cranking and running. The relay then picks and +12V from terminal 30 goes out on:
1 - Y/R wire to Fuse 5 (Tank pump) and direct to the Main pump
2 - Other Y/R wire to injectors
3 - Brown wire to Idle Air Control valve

Okay, here's the deal. I looked at page 4A-27 fig. 13.1b in the Bentley manual I see what you're talking about but there's a problem. First, I identified

which relay was which by the colors of the wires. On the system relay I have the following wires: at terminal 87 there's a brown wire and an orange wire, at

terminal 85 there's a yellow wire with a red stripe, at terminal 86 there's a red wire, and at terminal 30 there's a larger red wire. This is in agreement

with fig 13.1b except that the wire the red wire at terminal 30 doesn't jumper over to terminal 86. On my car these are two seperate wires. I even checked

voltage and I have 12V at terminal 30 but no voltage at terminal 86. According to the Haynes diagram there should be 12V to terminal 86 as well the way I read

it. Here's something else that's interesting, both of the relays from the donor were different part numbers. I got another same part number relay from one

of my other donor cars and made sure I had a matched set. What should I do next? Thanks, Charles

This is getting confused already:

1) On Sun May 25 15:50 EST you said: "Since the relays are identical I tried the tests and one had voltage (at terminal 87) and the other one didn't.". That must have been the System relay because that's the one that energizes when the Key is turned on, as proven by voltage at 87.

2) But now (still talking about the System relay) you say: "at terminal 86 there's a red wire, and at terminal 30 there's a larger red wire. This is in agreement with fig 13.1b except that the wire the red wire at terminal 30 doesn't jumper over to terminal 86. On my car these are two seperate wires. I even checked voltage and I have 12V at terminal 30 but no voltage at terminal 86."

Were you then missing +12V at System 87 with the Key On? In #1 above you had it, meaning there MUST have been voltage at 86 to energize the relay. But something must have changed if now (at #2) there is NO voltage at 86.

I suggest you do your voltage checks first at the relay's "output" terminal(s), to verify the "Picked" state, and leave the other terminals alone unless the relay doesn't pick as it should.

As to the relays themselves, it would help if you gave us the part numbers. Just saying that they are "different" only raises the possibility of problems but gives nothing to go on.

That said, we've gained little to this point except for one post #1 where the System Relay appears normal (voltage at 87), followed by post #2 where there is no voltage to energize the relay (at 86). With no mention of 87 in #2, we can only assume it failed this time. So which is it? System relay working or not?

And what are the relay part numbers?

The Bosch # should be 0 332 204 150 (others MAY swap OK but need # to verify)
The Volvo # is 1324070 (superseded by part number 872300)

Hey Guys, I finally got some time today to work on this and I think this relay thing is starting to make sense. First, I've been referencing the Haynes manual

page 4A-27 fig.13.1b for the Lh-2.0 Jetronic system. I got 12V at all of the terminals on the system relay when I jumpered terminal 85 to ground. On the

pump relay I got 12V on all of the terminals except for terminal 87 where I got 7V when I jumpered terminal 85 to ground again(why is this lower?). I'm

guessing that terminals 17 and 21 inside the control unit supply the ground during some other function. If this is the case then I think that both of these

relays are good. Please let me know if I'm correct about this. BTW, when I jumpered terminal 85 on the pump relay to ground, both of my fuel pumps started

running. And of course the car still won't start so I guess the next thing is to check fuel system pressure. On that note I looked in both the Bently and the

Haynes manuals for the procedure and both of their procedures require the engine to be running. Since this isn't possible at this stage what do you all

recommend I do to check the fuel pressure and delivery without taking a bath in gasoline(I can hardly afford it at the current gold boullion prices!) P.S. the relays are both Bosch part# 0 332 204 172. Thanks, Charles

Thanks, Charles

1) I got 12V at all of the terminals on the system relay when I jumpered terminal 85 to ground.
• So the System relay works, but why the jumper?
• Are experimenting? Or did normal Key-controlled operation fail?
The ECU should have grounded System relay 85 when the Key was turned on. Did the ECU 21 fail to do it's job here or what? Without knowing whether the Key was On or Off, I can't really speculate further.

2) On the pump relay I got 12V on all of the terminals except for terminal 87 where I got 7V when I jumpered terminal 85 to ground again(why is this lower?).
• Most likely that relay has burnt contacts causing an internal resistance that is "eating up" 5V just to put what's left on terminal 87. Since both relays are the same (0 332 204 172 is OK), you could try swapping them to see if the problem moves with he relay.

But most important is how the relays react normally, as I've outlined previously:

(1) At Key on, the System relay should "pick" and stay that way till the Key is turned off.

(2) When cranking, the ECU (pin 18 Blue/Green) should ground Fuel relay 85 when it (ECU) senses ignition pulses (at pin1) from Coil #1.

If the relays check out, we can move forward to FI operation. If not, we have to trace back to find the problem(s).

I think it's too early to worry about fuel pressure testing till we confirm that the 2 relays work normally (without jumpers). But pressure can be checked without running the engine. More on that later.

Hi, Sorry about the confusion. First of all I was testing the system relay with the key in the "on" or "run" position. I also found that the reason I think

that my readings were so sporadic was due to the fact that the ground I was using for my multi-meter was loose. It's tight now so the readings are as

follows: with the key on I am now getting 12V at all terminals on the system relay. If I understand you correctly then this proves that the system relay

function is correct. The pump relay is a different story. I cannot get 12V at terminal 87 on the pump relay with the engine cranking. I used a jumper from

terminal 85 to ground (igniton switch in run position) and as stated earlier the pumps start running and I'm now able to get 12V at terminal 87. This proves

2 things: first that the pump relay is working correctly and second that the ECU is not grounding the pump relay at the ECU terminal 17. I then took things

a step further. Looking at the diagram I saw that terminal 1 on the ECU goes directly to terminal 1 on the coil so I checked continuity between terminal 1 on the coil and the green wire on the ECU plug and I don't have continuity so I

have to fix that so I can get my ground at ECU terminal 17, right? BTW, You stated above that pin 18 on the ECU should ground fuel relay terminal 85. The

way I'm reading the diagram shouldn't that be terminal 17 on the ECU that provides the ground? I think pin 18 provides the power(+12V). Is this correct?

Please let me know if I'm on the right track or not.

That sounds like real progress.

The lack of continuity from ECU 1 to Coil 1 probably means you'll be back under the hood again. I have no hands-on experience with that harness but suspect there might be an in-line connection someplace.

The Ignition diagram on Haynes page 5-7 may help a little. You'll see that Coil 1 goes to ICU 1, but with a branch off to the left, with a "connecter" symbol. That line is heading for FI ECU 1.

And since you are now getting spark, the Coil-to-ICU part must be OK. That means that side-leg in Fig 6.12c must be "open" somewhere on it's way to ECU 1.
TIP: Another way to test that "side-leg" is to look for 12V at ECU 1 with the key on. The Key On 12V to Coil 15 "reads thru" to Coil 1, so it should be seen on both ends of that GR (Grey) wire, and we know it's getting to the ICU, right?]

And yes, I misread my own hand-drawn diagram. ECU 17 grounds the Fuel relay. ECU 18 gets 12V at Key on to power-up so it can control the ground on 21 for the System relay.

Your tracking on this part looks good to me.

Hello Kit,

Thanks for the clarification.

You are correct. Terminal 18 of the fuel computer is +12 V, and terminal 17 grounds the relay.

You said that the pumps are not being automatically engaged by the computer?

You said that you had no connection of the #1 terminal? This wire is not green, it is gray and fat.


Goatman

Hey Goatman, I've been using the Haynes manual wiring diagram for this. It's found on page 4A-27 fig.13.b (schematic for the LH-2.0 Jetronic system). I

don't know if you have access to this but according to this terminal #1 from the ECU control unit goes to the terminal #1 on the coil via a green wire. Also

it's the only green wire in the diagram. What I did was I removed the connector on the ECU and there's a small screw on the cover. I removed the

screw and was able to slide the connector cover back off of the actual connector just enough to see all of the wires attached to it. I then found a

large green wire and since it was the only green one in the bundle I assumed that it was the one in the diagram. I then checked for continuity between that

point and the #1 terminal on the coil. My meter read an open circuit. I'm going to check the diagram that Lucid suggested and figure out if I'm right about

this or not. BTW, what diagram are you referring to where you see the wire as gray? Thanks, Charles

Hey Goatman, I've been using the Haynes manual wiring diagram for this. It's found on page 4A-27 fig.13.b (schematic for the LH-2.0 Jetronic system). I

don't know if you have access to this but according to this terminal #1 from the ECU control unit goes to the terminal #1 on the coil via a green wire. Also

it's the only green wire in the diagram. What I did was I removed the connector on the ECU and there's a small screw on the cover. I removed the

screw and was able to slide the connector cover back off of the actual connector just enough to see all of the wires attached to it. I then found a

large green wire and since it was the only green one in the bundle I assumed that it was the one in the diagram. I then checked for continuity between that

point and the #1 terminal on the coil. My meter read an open circuit. I'm going to check the diagram that Lucid suggested and figure out if I'm right about

this or not. BTW, what diagram are you referring to where you see the wire as green? Thanks, Charles

Charles, the wire in question is GRay, as I said. Maybe you aren't reading carefully?

From yesterday:
• And since you are now getting spark, the Coil-to-ICU part must be OK. That means that side-leg in Fig 6.12c must be "open" somewhere on it's way to ECU 1.
TIP: Another way to test that "side-leg" is to look for 12V at ECU 1 with the key on. The Key On 12V to Coil 15 "reads thru" to Coil 1, so it should be seen on both ends of that GR (Grey) wire, and we know it's getting to the ICU, right?]

On Volvo diagrams GR=GRay/GRey, and GN=GreeN. I believe the wire is actually White, but is covered with coaxial shielding (like TV cable), with a GRAY outer covering, making it fat-looking compared to most. You should see it that way at Coil #1.

I was about to correct you on the GRay/GreeN confusion but goatman felt compelled to add his expertise. Since he seems to believe I'm not leading you in the right direction, I'll bow out for now — we all know what too many cooks can do to the broth.

Okay guys, I found the GRay wire at the ECU plug and tested for continuity between that point and terminal #1 on the ign. coil. No continuity there. So I

went out under the hood and tested for continuity between the ECU gray wire and what I believe is the "side leg" near the ICU that you referred to lucid. It

was a small plug that "sprouts" off of the ICU plug about an inch or so down. This plug has a single white wire with a red stripe on the ICU side and 2 white

wires with red stripes on the opposite side and there wasn't continuity there either. I checked all of the wires in the vicinity of the ICU plug and I can't

find a gray wire anywhere. I know it has to be somewhere because both the Bentley and the Haynes manuals call it out. I also can't find any wire(s) with

a coax shield or any white wires. I'm lost at this point. Please help. Thanks, Charles

"I went out under the hood and tested for continuity between the ECU gray wire and what I believe is the "side leg" near the ICU that you referred to lucid. It was a small plug that "sprouts" off of the ICU plug about an inch or so down. This plug has a single white wire with a red stripe on the ICU side and 2 white wires with red stripes on the opposite side and there wasn't continuity there either."

That small plug sounds promising. It could be the "plug" in the diagram on Haynes 5-7. I have a suggestion and a question at this point:

Suggestion: Try using Key On 12V rather than looking for continuity, it's more positive. As I said in another post, that KO 12V at Coil 15 should read right thru the primary winding and be present at Coil 1—and everything connected to Coil 1. So test to see if there is !2V at the mystery plug.

If that IS the plug in the diagram, there must be 12V there because you verified that the Ignition is working. Maybe your "gray wire" probing at the ECU is not on the actual wire, but on the coax?

Question: How many wires (and what colors) on Coil terminal 1?

Okay, Here's what I found. First on terminal #1 on the coil I have 2 black wires. One is like an 8 gauge and the other is like a 10 gauge (I'm guessing).

I went ahead and checked for voltage at the side leg plug that comes off of the ICU and I have 12V. I then went and checked for voltage at the gray wire at the

ECU and got 12V also. Now here's the interesting part, I disconnected the "side leg" plug next to the ICU and checked for voltage at the gray wire

at the ECU and I got 12V. This then proves that the side leg plug next to the ICU is not the plug on pg. 5-7 in the Haynes. Any ideas where to look next?

BTW, I looked under the hood of my '83 245 wagon that I currently drive and the wires at the #1 terminal on the coil are the same as how I've got it hooked up. Thanks, Charles

1) Okay, Here's what I found. First on terminal #1 on the coil I have 2 black wires. One is like an 8 gauge and the other is like a 10 gauge (I'm guessing).

• That stops me cold. Black wires are almost always used as grounds in Volvo wiring, although the '83 diagram does show a black wire from Coil 1 to the tachometer. But in '84 that black Coil 1 wire changed to White/Red, with another White/Red to the Bosch ICU.

However, the '83 and '84 diagrams both show the Chrysler ICU separately, with a White wire from ICU 1 pointing to Coil 1.

2) So I went ahead and checked for voltage at the side leg plug that comes off of the ICU and I have 12V. I then went and checked for voltage at the gray wire at the ECU and got 12V also. Now here's the interesting part, I disconnected the "side leg" plug next to the ICU and checked for voltage at the gray wire at the ECU and I [still] got 12V. This then proves that the side leg plug next to the ICU is not the plug on pg. 5-7 in the Haynes.

• That seems to be the case, but with that "mystery plug" being connected to/from The ICU, it must be involved. To prove that the 12V there is coming from the Coil (as I assume from the diagrams) take all the wires off Coil 1 and see if you lose the Key On 12V at the plug, AND at the ECU gray wire. That might tell us somehing.

Other than that, I'm stumped, as I said above.

Okay, here's what I found. I went back out and looked under the hood and found another "side leg" that runs behind the passenger side strut

tower to a plug up near the firewall. It has 2 wires. One is a white wire with a red stripe and the other is a larger blue wire. So I thought "what the heck"

and I went ahead and disconnected it and checked for continuity and voltage (between coil terminal #1 and the gray wire at the ECU) and voila' no voltage

or continuity at the gray ECU wire so this must be the correct side leg. So since this is the side leg and I have 12V at the gray wire (terminal #1) at the

ECU and I have to jumper from terminal #85 on the pump relay to ground to get the pumps to run, does this mean that my ECU control unit is bad or is it

operating correctly? BTW, I had a thought regarding the wire colors at the coil. Since I installed an upgraded wiring harness in this car (and there's

also one in my '83 daily driver) is it possible that some of the wires colors in the upgraded harness differ from an original harness? I wouldn't think so

but it's the only thing that makes sense at this point. Where do you think I should go next? Thanks, Charles

So since this is the side leg and I have 12V at the gray wire (terminal #1) at the
ECU and I have to jumper from terminal #85 on the pump relay to ground to get the pumps to run, does this mean that my ECU control unit is bad or is it operating correctly?

Can't say yes or no to that yet. But we now know that the wire from ICU 1 to ECU 1 appears to be in place. If it carries Coil/ICU pulses to the ECU, then the ECU should respond by grounding Fuel relay 85.

There's a slim chance that if it was failing to do the job, all the wire probing, etc. may have fixed a poor connection. I'm grasping at straws here because although the ECU "could" be bad, I don't believe the LH 2.0 ECU is known for that kind of failure (like the 561 LH 2,4 ECU is). Also, I think they are scarce and expensive.

What I would do now is test that Blue/Green wire at relay 85 to make sure it's still failing to get grounded like it should when the engine is cranked. If you "back-probe" it at the (connected) relay plug, you should see 12V with the Key on—the 12V coming thru the relay coil (like with Coil 1 as you just saw).

Then, watching the meter while you crank the engine, the 12V should "go away" if/when the ECU ties that relay terminal 85 to ground. If it doesn't, then the ECU is probably at fault.

The only other thing would be a "live" test for Coil-related pulses coming into the ECU 1 pin. A grounded Test Light on ECU 1 would go from Bright (at Key On) to dim or flickering, if the coil pulses are there when cranking. I'm not sure how a digital voltmeter would react, but the change should be noticeable.

Okay, here's what I did. I went ahead and put everything back together and I rechecked terminal #17 to terminal #85 (blue wire with green stripe-ECU to pump

relay) with they ignition switch in the run position and I now have 12V. Probably a loose connection before. I then cranked the engine and watched the

voltage and it dropped to 10.86 volts and held steady there. As far as ECU's availibility go, I have 2 more of these units as I have 2 '84 parts cars. I

think the next thing we should pursue is fuel pressure/delivery checks at least for now. What do you all think? Thanks, Charles

Hello,


Since the ignition operates, does it run on starting fluid?


Goatman

"So since this is the side leg and I have 12V at the gray wire (terminal #1) at the

ECU and I have to jumper from terminal #85 on the pump relay to ground to get the pumps to run, does this mean that my ECU control unit is bad or is it

operating correctly?" Ater I made this statement and re-read it I realized that I forgot to mention that the all of this is after I reconnected the side leg

plug. thanks, Charles

Hey Guys, I apparently misread the diagram from the Haynes book. You're right guys, I looked at the diagram and it does say "GR" and I assumed that was green

instead of Gray. Now I'll have to go and look for the Gray wire in the ECU bundle and check continuity between there and the #1 terminal on the coil. As

far as who's leading me in the right direction goes I just want you guys to know that I'm patient and determined to get this car running and I can't tell

you both how much I appreciate all of your help throughout this whole ordeal. All in all it has been a great learning experience figuring all of this stuff

out which I couldn't have done without you guys. I work at a local GM dealership selling cars (because they're isn't a Volvo dealership for 100

miles) and I have to take some heat for driving my 240 but what I always tell them is that there's a certain amount of peace of mind and personal

satisfaction that goes along with (for the most part) knowing what makes your car tick and how to repair it versus making a car payment every month and

letting the service department maintain your car for you. I certainly don't want to lose your expertise lucid as I'm not out of the woods yet and even when


I am it's great to know that I have support in maintaing my Volvo. Thanks again and sorry for the long post, Charles

In the post above: Service Information I scanned a factory diagram

One more question, are both relays the same part number? Thanks, Charles