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The car is a '92 940 GL sedan. Wife pulled up to the parking spot, was running fine. A few hours later, I went out and it will turn over briskly, but won't start. Won't even try to start - no rough idling, or almost starting, etc. Fuel pump relay is fine, as is the radio suppression relay (removed and jumped the two big wires per the FAQ) - and I can smell raw gas coming out of the tailpipe, so am assuming it's getting fuel. Replaced the RPM sensor just a few months ago, so it's not that. Pulled each lead and checked for spark with a tester grounded to the engine, and each line sparks when it should. Even replaced the coil/ignition module unit with new (it's the square rex/regina. Timing belt is tight and secure, so that's not the issue either.
So what now? Can bad compression do this? Pulled plugs, and the #1 threads are a little oily, and they all have a little white ash, but nothing drastic, apart from smelling like gas.
Got a code from the computer saying 'idle air contol signal faulty or missing' but that was only after many attempts at cranking, and I did not get that code when the problem initially started. So I think it's just the result of excessive cranking....
Any help greatly appreciated - I love this car, but with gas prices being what they are, I'm getting more tempted by hybrids......
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Hey folks,
Tried all the suggestions mentioned so far, and still nothing. But then by accident today, as I was trying to (unsuccessfully) attach a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel line, I realized I may have stumbled on the solution.
When I intially depressed the valve after the car had been sitting all day, there was a brief spurt of fuel, and then nothing. But after subsequently cranking the car, there was still nothing. Surely if my fuel pump were working, I'd have some kind of pressure in there, right? I'm assuming the initial spurt was because the car had been baking in the hot sun all day and there was some residual pressure in there from that - please correct me if I'm wrong.
Since my FPR, radio suppression relay and fuel pump relay all check out, then the pump would be the next logical step, right? I have the 1 pump Regina system.
Any support for this theory, or any other suggestions before I have it towed to the local "Volvo guy?". I'm too scared to attempt this fix myself.....
Many thanks.
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Hi,
If there is voltage at the pump terminals then the pump needs to be replaced. If there is no electricity, changing the pump will have no effect.
Good Luck!
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Can you hear the fuel pump whirring in the tank when you turn the key?
I hated doing the job...removing the sender mounted fuel pump...but it's fairly straightforward. Just give yourself the whole day and start early and take lots of breaks. Working in the trunk is a little uncomfortable and the position you are in un-natural. If you go at it prepared and you are not in a hurry, you can knock it off it a few hours. It would be great if you do this job with someone who has done it before. It's one of those projects that is likely easier if you have done it a few times.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy (little disclaimer on safety here) and make sure you have good ventilation of gasoline fumes. You will want to do this with a quarter-tank of fuel, or less. The hardest part is putting the sender unit back in the tank and working around the anti-slosh baffle.
--
I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....
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Hovonogila,
Thanks for your insight. If I only had my own driveway, I'd attempt the replacement myself - but I'm parked on the street in the Bronx in front of my apartment building on a hill, with 3/4 of a tank of gas. Just imagine the looks on the faces of both the firemen and my co-op board if something went wrong - "you were doing WHAT?????"....
So I'm going to have her towed to a local indy who a friend has recommended. I'm crossing my fingers that this guy is as honest and competent as he's supposed to be....
I've saved many thousands of $$$ by doing stuff myself up to this point, so I figure it's probably time to give up the fight on this one in the interest of public safety! Plus, I bought the car a year ago with 87k miles for $1,400 and have done practically no maintenance. So I really can't complain too much!
Thanks also to everyone else for their input. I'll post with the down-and-dirty details once this guy has done his stuff.
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You didn't answer Hovonogila's question:
"Can you hear the fuel pump whirring in the tank when you turn the key?"
If not, before plunging into a pump replacement, you (or your mechanic) should at least check to see if there is voltage going TO the pump.
The place to check is at a 4-pin connector in the left rear "wheel housing", which means getting the left side trunk panel off.
The connector has 4 wires, the pump gets voltage on the PINK wire, and gets its ground on the BLACK one. The other 2 wires (Gray/White and Brown) are for the Fuel gauge.
If there IS voltage on the PINK wire (for 1 or 2 seconds) when the Key is turned ON — but the pump doesn't run, then it's probably bad.
But if you DON'T see any Key ON voltage on the pink wire, then you have a circuit problem and the pump may be OK.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Are you sure it has 87k miles.......the fuel pump usually goes at about 150k. This is a job you won't mind letting someone else do as long as they are competent....
--
I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....
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Hi
I would guess you actually have two distinct problems. First you had an an extreme "rich" condition caused by either(in order of likelihood) a bad ECT, faulty FPR, or leaking injector. Secondarily you have had raw fuel "wash" the inside of your cylinder walls of the thin layer of motor oil which imparts much of the needed compression needed to allow proper firing. You can test this theory by leaving the plugs out of the vehicle for a few hours to allow any raw fuel to evap then add a couple squirts of oil directly into each cylinder via the spark plug holes to allow compression to once again occur.
Bear in mind if you havent solved the cause of the rich condition the problem will certainly re-occur.
Good luck
Matt
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Wow, thanks for all the varied responses! Still haven't solved the problem. I'm pretty sure it's not the timing, since I've checked the belt and the teeth all seem fine. It must be a fuel delivery issue, since I have solid spark. I've swapped out both the radio suppression relay and fuel pump relay and they're fine (boy, it sure helps having 2 Volvos of the same vintage!). So per the FAQ, that would leave the FPR and the fuel pump. (I'm going to be optimistic and leave the ECU for last, since I'm getting spark and what appears to be some fuel)
HOWEVER:
-There is a distinct fuel smell (flooding?) after cranking. I'm assuming this means my fuel pump is working (I have the Regina system with the single pump). BUT, I followed the FAQ suggestions and jumped the pump relay terminals today - and no sound from the pump. So is it possible that I'm actually pulling fuel into the engine through vacuum alone? Seems unlikely, but I thought I'd ask those more knowledgeable than myself...
-Today, after the car had been sitting in the hot sun for several hours, I tried cranking again and it ALMOST caught, but then went back to the same no-start condition. Would this be indicative of some fuel evaporating from a rich condition perhaps? If so, I guess I'm looking at an FPR issue, which I would much prefer over a new fuel pump. But it's puzzling that I couldn't hear the pump when I jumped the terminals. Is it also possible that enough pressure built up in the fuel system in the hot sun to allow the car to almost start? If so, then I'm back to the fuel pump, I guess...
Sorry for the long post, but any further insight would be most welcome!
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Hi,
This mimics Herb Goltz's lot vividly.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1258966/940/960/980/V90/S90/92_945t_stubborn_nostart.html
The fix was almost funny, nothing. Fuel fouled the engine. After a time and towing to the shop. The engine started.
I'd squirt several surges of engine oil into the cylinders with a turkey baster. You might get lucky.
Goatman
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Goatman - thanks for the thread, but I couldn't find the fix in there. Are you saying that it just needed some time to sit? Or did he have an actual fuel delivery problem that caused the flooding in the 1st place?
Thanks for the suggestion, maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place?
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I still am guessing a rich condition as primary culprit. Confirm FPR function per FAQ(shoot return into a quart jar and see how fast it fills). Secondarily fuel wash on cylinder wall leaving inadequate compression, or as longshot, the rich condition could have melted the inside of your catalytic converter honeycomb into a solid mass rendering it fully plugged. Try removing the test plug on the exhaust immediately prior to the cat and see if she runs.
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Thanks for the further advice, I've tried letting the cylinders air out and squirting oil in to restore compression, but to no avail. So my next stop is going to be the cat. (will run a real compression test 1st, though). I'm also wondering if this could be caused by a blockage in the air intake? I was getting the code "idle air control signal weak or missing". I'm wondering if it's possible for the IAC to quit in the closed position, suffocating the engine - or is this just a pipe dream?
Thanks again for all the advice!
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Even with the IAC return hose completely blocked the engine will run, albeit at 400-500rpm's. So I'd say its its highly unlikely. There is a small test port you can unscrew ahead of the cat to test whether its blocked, no need to fully remove the cat. Just out of curiosity, when the engine turns over does it sound fairly normal or does it seem to crank extra easy?
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Hi,
You are trying to start the car with the throttle fully depressed? Otherwise you could be correct. I agree with the compression test to check for a slipped timing belt.
Good Luck!!
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Hello,
Herb was pretty vague (maybe he'll chime in), and I myself believe that an injector fault (valve stuck) occurred flooding the engine initially but repeated starting attempts continued to cause trouble.
A thought occurred just now to check the fuel regulator vacuum hose for fuel infiltration.
Yes, he did mention that the problem was remedied by letting the cylinders air out in another thread.
Goatman
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My guess would be that you have Spark but at the wrong time... Check the Timing Belt for stripped teeth.
A spritz of Starter Fluid does nothing?
You mentioned the Starter spins the engine freely. Do you mean, faster then before like you have lost compression or cranks it normally?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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What about the radio suppression relay? Do you have a spare to swap out? I had this problem about a year ago....at the WORST possible opportunity...and it was the crankshaft position sensor (off the flywheel on the top of the bell housing)....looks like you replaced that first. Check the relay.
--
I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....
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I'm curious - how did you determine that each spark plug wire sparked "when it should?" In other words, how did you determine that #1 fired when it was supposed to, as opposed to firing when it wasn't supposed to?
Anyway, if you have fuel and you have spark, and I'm going to assume that your compression didn't disappear in the few hours that it was parked, then you're down to air and timing.
Some blockage in the air handling system? Jumped timing? You mentioned the timing belt was tight. Did you confirm that it's actually turning the camshaft?
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If you're getting spark and gas, then I would suspect the compression. The 960s have the problem with valves sticking open (not closing completely) causing this symptom, but I've never heard of it on a 940. Have you run a compression test? That would be my next step.
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Howdy,
Got a code from the computer saying 'idle air contol signal faulty or missing' but that was only after many attempts at cranking, and I did not get that code when the problem initially started.
Take the computer at it's word. You've got fuel and spark, the only things missing from the equation are compression and air. Dry the plugs and reinstall them. Hold the throttle plate open just a tad with the foot pedal and try to start it again. If it starts and dies, there's your problem. If not, check compression.
Let us know what happens.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man.
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