I have a 1990 245. The top outlet on the radiator broke off. I ordered a genuine Volvo radiator because this one is original.

My question is this, I spoke with the service foreman and checked with a few of the mechanics. I am going to put a radiator for an automatic into a car with a standard transmission. He told me it would fit. There was a $300 difference in price between the two. Is there anything I need to do differently to make it fit? Do I need to plug the automatic transmission lines?

He told me the only reason he could think of for the price difference is supply and demand. They should be interchangeable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
--
1990 245 Wagon - 207000 miles

I, and many others, prefer to buy Nissens' 3-row ("heavier-duty cooling") radiator -- it is a 3-row, all metal design instead of your OEM 2-row, partly plastic design.

But the point is, this is sold as applicable to both manual and automatic transmissions -- if you have a manual, you simply have no fluid lines to attach, in which case you should keep the plastic caps (that come with the radiator) to keep the ATF cooler closed and therefore free of moisture and dirt, which might otherwise be subject to internal corrosion.

So you might as well buy the less expensive, automatic transmission version --it won't hurt anything.

I have replaced 3x radiators over last 5x years on various Volvo's. I buy new from distributors. Look in your phone book. Thats how I found mine. This is where most local auto stores buy from. So why not go direct to source and avoid mark up ? My local radiator distributor warehouse was more then happy to sell to me. Cash. Anyway I did not buy Volvo OEM radiators. Instead I bought and used off brand made in thailand radiators. All are still working fine. 1x has over 100,000 miles on it and others close to 75,000. Paid aprox. $100 for each one. All could be for either auto tranny or for manual stick tranny. Actually I have never seen a radiator that was just specifically for manual stick tranny. Guess only advantage would be that area used for tranny cooling could instead be used for coolant cooling so therefore maybe offer a bit more cooling/efficiency. Not really sure that I would buy a used radiator from a junkyard/pick n pull unless I knew it was good. Good luck.
--
' 88 740GLE auto wagon nearly 167,000 and ' 87 240DL auto sedan nearly 125,000

The radiator for the automatic will have 2 additional outlets which you could leave alone or cap. The transmission cooler is inside but separate from the rest of the radiator, so shouldn't leak.

Why the price difference? Maybe owner gullibility? I think most replacement rads sold these days are designed to take transmission lines. If installed in a standard vehicle they're just not hooked up.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

Hi,

If you live in a place with a Volvo dealership nearby, there ought to be a self service junkyard too.

That's where you should obtain a radiator form any model 1976-1993 standard or automatic.

Don't pay dealer prices unless you are really desperate for a loss of money out of your wallet similar to the loss of coolant out of your radiator.


Good Luck

P.S. You should be able to find a radiator in VERY good condition for $30 or less, I did (been running it for two years) and others will chime in too.

I wouldn't buy a Volvo radiator, but I certainly wouldn't buy a used boneyard rad unless I knew a lot about the car it came off. Not, not, not worth it, unless used just around town and you don't mind possibility of total failure. The plastic necked ones could fail at any time, and the metal ones could fail slowly if wrong coolants used, or otherwise not care for. Spend the money and get one that's good, AND can be repaired in an emergency. The rad of choice for 240s is a Nissens, preferably 3 row HD if will be doing any hot weather driving.

I have to respectfully disagree with you on several points.

I have tried the Nissen three row metal radiator and I consider it a waste of money. I had it less than two years and it started leaking on the inner row, I may have been the exception but I would not spend another dime on a Nissen radiator.

I have had great service out of radiators from the recyclers. Original Volvo plastic radiators are great radiators; where else will you find radiators that provide service up to and beyond 150-200K?

Plastic tank radiators show signs of impending failure if inspected. I always give the ones I purchase and the ones I have in service an "elephant test". I remove the hoses and stress the necks by inserting a screwdriver handle and then apply reasonable force laterally to see if the plastic has gotten brittle and is prone to failure.

If I have to replace a radiator in any of the Volvos I have on the road and I have to buy a new one it will be one from the dealer. Probably Tasca or Beechmont as they have the best prices. I am not one to sing the praises of the Volvo dealer network, but some things end up being a bargain.

Randy

Well, I'll have to respectfully disagree with your disagreement; specifically:

Volvo rads are very good, and more efficient coolers, and maybe you can predict cataclysmic failures with screwdriver test, but most can't and not sure it will always work. I've heard too many horror stories of cooked engines or trans (easy to fry an auto trans) from broken necks to ever run a used one, or trust beyond 12 years max.

Never heard of sudden failure/engine cooking with a metal rad. I've got 4 240s on the road now, all with Nissens, and have been using Nissens rads on 240s for around 20 years, and never had a leak. Did have a leak on a metal rad non-Nissens (bought car used) and determined that possibly related to wife having it serviced at dealership using Volvo coolant (saw something here years back that Volvo coolant which is made for aluminum rads will cause pinhole leaks--don't remember specifics and I'm not claiming it's true).

maybe you can predict cataclysmic failures with screwdriver test, but most can't and not sure it will always work.
I am not sure I can predict a cataclysmic failure either but it has worked for me so far, and I have come to trust it at least for the more common "brittle neck" syndrome (grin)

I will admit that my experience with the Nissens is not common, but "once burned twice shy"

I am currently responsible for maintaining three 240's, two 740T's, and two 940T's in my family. All are equipped with low coolant sensors which greatly reduce the possibility of cooking an engine or transmission. They have in fact saved family members twice due to low coolant level. Neither incident was a result of a failed radiator (both of which were junkyard finds). One was due to a ruptured heater hose and the other a failed turbo coolant hose.

The cooling system is like a chain- the weakess link will let you down. I don't understand why everyone doesn't install a low coolant circuit which is easily done for less than a $20 investment.

Randy

"The cooling system is like a chain- the weakess link will let you down. I don't understand why everyone doesn't install a low coolant circuit which is easily done for less than a $20 investment."

Sounds like a good idea in general, though still wouldn't help for total failure unless shut down engine. Where does it mount?. Would it also catch a failed pump that wouldn't circulate coolant? Does it set off a light, buzzer, something else?
The plastic neck on OEM rad probably is the weakest link in Volvo engine and auto trans, which is why I don't mess around at all, and why most people, unless they really know what they are doing, can evaluate the rads, and undestand the consequences, should avoid used. Can't blame you for being gun shy after a bad experience, but as I said, there was info circulating a while back that Volvo coolant would do that to metal rads, and I experienced it too (though no proven causality).

A $10 float switch is mounted in the coolant reservoir. 12v line from the fuse panel to a light on the dash from there through the firewall in front of the glovebox and on to the float switch in the reservoir and then to ground.

A small leak causes the lower level of coolant to splash around which flashes the bright 3/8" red light (Radio Shack) mounted on the dash. On the 240's I mount it centered on one of the two square plastic panels to the right of the instrument cluster.

A continuous red light indicates the level has fallen to nearly empty in the reservoir and everyone is instructed that requires an immediate stop in a safe area accompanied by an engine shut down (which has never been necessary in our experience).

It would not warn of a pump that has failed in its ability to circulate coolant, the level of fluid in the reservoir is what activates the warning light.

My first install included a buzzer, but sudden movements of the car and a marginally low level until the level expanded at operating temperature created an annoying result in the passenger compartment. I like to joke that I was tempted to wire the circuit in my older son's car to the power to the audio system. A flashing red light he might ignore but a sound system going on and off or not functioning at all would be considered an emergency.

I use old style Zerex green in all the cars. I made the mistake of switching to the long life green several years ago in one of the 240's equipped with a metal radiator (not a Nissen)and paid the price with leaking at the solder connections at the tube/tank junctions. I flush and renew the coolant every two years. usually at the same time I flush and renew the brake fluid.

Randy

It should be fairly simple to install a flowmeter in the return hose (top radiator) and a gauge in the dash. That would trump a low level sensor. You could not only see low level, but failed pump as well.

Bill