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JUMPED 4 AND 6 - N0 GAS 200 1991

Hello. I have a no start condition. No buzzing on craking. No buzzing with fuse 4 and 6 jumped. Opened fuel supply line at rail, no gas on cranking or with 4 and 6 jumped. Please, suggestions for next sequence of tests to isolate problem. Thanks.








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    JUMPED 4 AND 6 - N0 GAS 200 1991

    I should have posted directly to you, but replied to another comment lower down regarding the fuse jumpering.

    I won't detail it again here, but depending on how the fuses were jumpered, the "no gas on cranking or with 4 and 6 jumped" might not necessarily be a pump problem.

    Please read and consider my earlier post below, and reply to it if I can answer any questions.
    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.








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    JUMPED 4 AND 6 - N0 GAS 200 1991

    Your 4 to 6 jump tells you that it isn't the fuel system relay.

    Check for spark-- if no spark, suspect the RPM sensor on the bell housing.

    If you have spark, suspect the power stage on the inside of the driver's side fender.

    Good luck!








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    JUMPED 4 AND 6 - N0 GAS 200 1991

    That should force both pumps to run, if they are not running make sure the fuses are good and firmly in place. Otherwise try 12 volts directly to the main pump, if it does not make it run then the pump must be bad. Dan








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    JUMPED 4 AND 6 - N0 GAS 200 1991

    I assume you have a late model 240, as the two fuses you jumped indicate. Since you jumped the fuses, you bypassed the fuel pump relay and that would indicate to me that your fuel pump has gone bad. Maybe someone else will chime in, but you have done the right test. On my older 240 ('84) the jumped fuses are 5 and 7, I believe.

    Jay
    84 245 GLTi 235k
    88 740 GLE 218k








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      I agree with Jay , unless... 200 1991

      ...you jumpered the "output" (right side) terminals of either 4 or 6, in which case a bad fuse (or poor fuse contacts) in either position could prevent the voltage from getting to either or both pumps.

      Fuse 4 is the key here — fuse 6 is just a handy source of +12V. Any fuse 6 thru 10 would serve as well. Getting +12V to the fuse 4 "Input" (left side) of fuse 4 sends it straight to the Main pump — and thru fuse 4 to the Tank pump.

      When looking at any fuse, the unfused or Hot side is on the left, as shown below:

      #4 Hot* (+) side ——<<—(FUSE)—>>— fused side———> to Tank pump

      * Voltage at (or applied to) the Fuse 4 Hot side also goes to power the Main Pump, and SHOULD be here whenever the FI Relay is energized.

      The same layout applies to fuse 6, so a little study will show how jumpering the fuse "outputs" could fail:

      • If 6 was bad, you'd have no +12V to work with
      • If 4 was bad (6 good) only the Tank pump would get the +12V

      Note that with Fuse 4 removed, either pump can be tested independently.


      --
      Bruce Young
      '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.







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