Greetings:


I have read several previous forums on rear trailing arm bushing removal/install. I saw a very informative one from a brickboard member David Samuels. I would like to just purchase the bushings themselves with the steel sleeve inserts. However, I keep getting pics and prices of complete bushings with a new outer steel shell housing. I am trying to avoid taking out the original shell housing from off of the trailing bar itself. Just the same how much more of a deal is it to just knock out the old shell from the trailing bar itself, and install another whole new setup back into the arm? Is there a special press that one could buy over the counter? Other that that where could I just purchase the poly bushings without them being incorporated into a new steel shell? I like the idea of just cleaning out the old ones on the bar itself, and inserting a whole new bushing with the steel tubular insert. My bushings are crumpling and should clean right out without any complications. Again, I can just pop the new bushing into the already mounted steel housing. Thanks in advance!

Best Regards,

I was going to send you to the distributor www.superflex.co.uk but that part number groton has now appears to be a superflex number so it looks like the things are going to be a lot easier to get now...and a lot cheaper.

Drill out the rubber best you can close to the shell, then heat it with a torch, people say, burn it out, but really, get it gooy hot and whack it out, then take a wire wheel on a drill to the shell and clean it out. Make sure to shield your brake lines etc, have a fan blowing the fumes away from you., keep a hose with a spray nozzle at hand. First time is a bit of a pain, next time will be a breeze
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually

This turns a pita job into a walk in the park.
fcp groton
2B

SPF1312K

Urethane Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit (1 kit per car) must reuse original shell

$59.00

Hi,

Sir, it is very important to understand that the bushings do not install into the "arm" they install into the rear axle itself. Any attempt to remove or install new bushings without the appropriate trailing arm bushing tool will result in deforming the ears on the axle itself. You can't just "pound" it out.

Sorry to say, I don't think anyone will be "lending" out anymore tools over the Brickboard due to **&!!! that don't return them. There is one for sale on eBay right now though if you really need one. Search the board for homemade TAB tool.

Good Luck!!

This is for a 89 240/244 sedan.

Yup 1989 , you need the tool. http://home.no.net/ebrox/ ( look on left for Trailing Arms) It's not in English but you can see what you got there.

If you keep the Metal Shell in the Axle, you will more then likely have to burn out the degraded rubber, clean the shell and then put the Poly's in.



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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Thanks! I saw the tool on the ipdusa.com website. Is this the same tool, if not how well does it compare to the homemade version. I have brought from these gus before. Yes I would like to keep the original shells.

I found the bushings, thanks! I have been buying products from fcp for a while, they have excellent service. ipdusa.com is very good too (more extensive). I brought the timing belt tool and other items from them, some years back (several 740 wagons). I agree, this would make the project a whole lot easier. I might have to incorporate a propane torch (standby). The bushings appear to be very crumpled and or frayed. Will I do damage to any of the undercarriage components and or the driveline if I continue to drive the car? 99% of my miles are hwy 110 miles round trip. I don't get the heavy thump, however, I occasionally feel the axle move around just slightly. Even though the car sags, there is still plently of space within the wheel well. All of the bump stops are intact and sturdy. I am looking at begining the project no later than week (mid), what say you? Thanks again!


Regards

No real damage to the car. Other then the ride will continue to feel sloppy.

Take a look at the Torque rod bushings. They will not cause the sag you have but they will give you that axle shift feel that you mentioned. These are the bars that are on the top of the axle ( one on each side of the car). Easier to do then the Trailing arms because these 14" bars come off the car and you can fight with the bushings on the Workbench. They make Poly's for them too.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Does the dealer carry this tool, whereas I may have to order it, its not so much the cost, its the time that it would take. Could I simply use a ball joint type of press etc, with a little grease? I agree, I would not pound on it. If not I guess I will have to order the tool.



Regards

If you are keeping the Shells in place there is no reason to get the tool. If you are replacing the Shells then it is extremely tough to get the shells out of these brackets. Since there are two brackets 2" apart holding in each Bushing in, they are very unstable. As you try to push the Bushing out, these brackets want to bend and it pinches against the Bushing.

Again to understand what I'm saying, look at the second to last picture that Erling has on this website. You can see the "Ears" with no bushing in it..these will bend easily as you try to push, pound, yank the bushings out.

http://home.no.net/ebrox/TAB.htm
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Thanks Tony! I would be as careful as possible, will the incorporation of some grease help? I plan on ordering the bushings next week

I do use Grease ( Wheel Bearing) to help to put the new STOCK Bushings in.

The Poly's: I freeze them the night before to shrink them ever so slightly to get them into the shell.

What did you decide on? Poly or Stock?
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

It is my understanding that with these poly bushings you do not need the tool,I have a set of the bushings in front of me and it looks as though you would have no problem squeezing them in there with perhaps a pipe clamp and some lube.The bearing shell being left in place will keep you from bending the ears on the rear end.I have done this job many times the old fashion way with a dealer tool.I am now waiting for warm weather to install the polys on an 87 240 who ever completes he job first should be sure and post the results.good luck