|
|
|
So my friend just recieved her car back from the repair shop, they claimed that the fuel pump was the issues and wanted $400 for teh repair, she decided the car wasn't worth that much to her at the time...
I started digging and i've decided its time to ask a few questions.
1. What are the following connecters?
a. 
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/007.jpg[/IMG]
b.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/008-1.jpg[/IMG]
c.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/010.jpg[/IMG]
2. Are the missing fuses the correct fuses to jump when hotwiring the pump? Are you supposed to jump from the leftside terminal on #4 to the leftside terminal on #6?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/012.jpg[/IMG]
3. Does this fuel pump relay look okay?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/006-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/splbassx/volvo/015.jpg[/IMG]
The car came back from the shop with a dead battery, so for temporary troubleshooting we tried jumping the car and with the fuses jumpered the car attempted to run but didn't for more than but a second or two.
My plan of attack consists of..
1. charging the battery
2. replacing fuse and relay
3. fixing air intake duct between mass air sensor and throttle body
Does this seem like the logical course of action?
Thanks
Blyth
1986 volvo 240 dl sedan
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
That wire in picture #1 looks like the AC Compressor Solenoid or the one that goes to the AC Low pressure switch based on the color and location.
Regards,
PT
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
hello blyth,
go to the junkyard and pick up a few cheap relays. i usually get a grab bag of stuff for 1 price. these are surely in the bag.
you write as if you're beginning to learn how to take care of your own volvo. that's great.
some suggestions, start replacing stuff on your 86 to make it last longer and ride better. do it over a period of a year or two. new if and when you can afford it.
there are stuff that can be replaced using used parts -- a/c compressors. new aftermarket (oem) parts will do well in some instances, but only volvo parts are recommended in other instances, such as motor mounts (last longer) and pinion seal when the rear differential starts leaking.
read and get to know this stuff on bb, bentley and volvo manuals (wiring manual is a good one to begin with). sometimes your going to need/buy special tools.
my 86 has been a project car. it's driving better than it has in years. i just need it painted--in a few months. what i've done is a long list.
i drove it 500 miles around texas just last saturday. not one problem. i just put on those michelin tires guaranteed for 90k miles.
did i mention that the car has over 300k miles and it's my daily drive?
i expect it to wear those tires out.
regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Wow man. THAT is a toasted relay. I think they are in the range of $20-25 bucks from www.fcpgroton.com.
Replace that and the fuses.
If you just want to test: Replace those fuses, then, jump the relay plug using plain old wire to test it. Search "fuel pump relay jumper" on the BB. I forget the pin #'s.
My bet is that is fires right up.
Do that all first, then post back if it doesn't work.
When it does, she should plant a big kiss on ya and take you out for some good dinner and some wine!
GOod luck.
--
89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Ya know, with a soldering iron, a burnishing tool, and a little elbow-grease... ;-) Looks like it was soaked in a cup of brine for a while!
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Damn network timeouts.... >:-|
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
1. b is used to set base idle, nothing is connected to this normally.
2. Jump 5 and 7 ( fuel pumps) on the 86
3. Relay is shot, does the engine run?
Dan
|
|
-
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
The Fuel Relay diagnosis seems bogus, based on missing fuse 4 and corroded Fuel relay. Here is my take on your photos (numbered as they appear for consistancy):
1) Not sure on this one. Not critical for starting/running, IMO. Maybe for underhood light.
2) These 2 wires are test points. Red for AMM adjusting, Blue-White for idle speed setting.
3) "Service Socket", which energizes starter when +12V jumper is applied.
4) Fuses 4 and 6 are missing. #4 should be in for Tank pump. #6 doesn't matter, as it's not used in U.S. cars
7–10) Fuel relay ruined by water leak (relay was probably dangling from wires) The Main relay might work, but the integrated pair is worthless.
Fuse Jumpering–Fuses 5 and 7 are NOT the ones to jumper for LH FI. Use 4 (to pumps) and 6 (for +12V). Fuse 6 (left side) is just a handy voltage source. Any fuse 6–10 would do just as well. They are all "hot" all the time. Voltage applied to Fuse 4 (left/input) bypasses the fuel relay and goes two ways:
• Thru fuse to Tank pump
• Directly to Main Pump
NOTE that this jumpering will run pumps (immediately), but unless the Main FI relay is working (the "decent" one in the photos), the motor will not start.
See THIS POST for details on complete relay bypassing.
Note too that the Fuse 4 "relay jumper" also bypasses the 25 Amp blade fuse and its wiring, which is also a known trouble source and supplies ALL voltage to the FI system.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Thanks everybody for the responses let me make sure I am understanding everything while explaining a few things.
First off the reason the pump fuse(s) we're removed was to jumper the connections, I only had a paperclip to use and I couldnt get it to stay put with the fuses in place. Fuse 6 doesn't matter, I thought one controlled the intake pump the other the main pump?
Secondly, I'm guessing the shop was just impatient and either
A. Didnt think they would make any money off of a simple relay swap.
B. Didn't want to work around the cars quirks. (passenger side door would'nt open, air intake duct missing, drivers door handle broken...)
C. Really, Truely don't know what the f#$k they are doing.
This being said if I still have a few remaining questions.
1. The car won't run, or won't run very well with just the fuses jumped, correct?
2. The car will run with the fuse & relay bypassed (jumped 3 way)?
3. The air duct between the air sensor and throttle body is gone, how will this affect how the car starts/runs?
4. What and where is the 25 amp blade fuse?
Thanks again...after we get it running i'll surely be back to sort out her quirks, but thats what gives them character, right?
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
"Fuse 6 doesn't matter, I thought one controlled the intake pump the other the main pump? "
• This one bites everybody. Problem is that Volvos are sold around the world. Some world markets used a different FI system than the U.S. The K-jetronic FI does use fuse 6. But we have LH-Jetronic after 1984. One fuse label doesn't "fit" all in this case.
"1. The car won't run, or won't run very well with just the fuses jumped, correct?"
• Can't say for sure, not knowing the problem yet. "Yes", but ONLY if it's just the bad fuel relay pictured. The jumper would be putting +12V where a good Fuel relay would—at the input to fuse 4, as described in other reply. And the car would run normally as long as the jumper didn't get too hot (carrying 7 or 8 amps).
"2. The car will run with the fuse & relay bypassed (jumped 3 way)?"
• Same answer—Yes, if the relay is the only problem. The 3-way bypass jumper duplicates the relay more closely than a quick-rigged fuse jumper.
"3. The air duct between the air sensor and throttle body is gone, how will this affect how the car starts/runs? "
• The car won't run without that hose in place to let the engine suck air thru the AMM—so the amount of fuel can be matched to the air mass. No hose=no AMM air flow.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Patched up the intake hose until the new one gets here with the relay. Intsalled a new fuse and jumped the relay. Car now runs.
Next question. I took a quick pick after we got the car running to see if I could see what caused the relay to fill up with liquid and noticed this...Is this normal?
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Yes the A/C pipe looks normal.
Check for leaks around the wiper motor grommet, or the windshield.
Until you find the leak tie the relay up to something horizontal.
--
Bruce S. near D.C.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Hi, I saw some your photobucket site. I hope you don't mind.
What kind of engine is on the stand? It seems very interesting.
The car won't run without the throttle hose, but it might start if you unplug the air meter.
You really should try to start the engine with starting fluid first before replacing anything.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Thats a k20...bitch. (sorry inside joke). My friends a honda kid, so of course the engine is a swap, rsx type s I believe, into a civic. Built for boost, about 15 grand sitting there believe it or not. His plan are a gt35r I think.
I'm not sure if my litle smalblock will hold its own...im hoping for 11's in the quarter with a roadrace setup...we'll see, if I can ever chase down all the oil leaks.
We'll give that a shot, won't get to tinker anymore until tomarrow. I'm fairly certain the issue is fuel related as the car did run for a second or 2 when I jumped the fuses, which tell me it at least has some sort of spark.
More diagnosis tomarrow...restricted with school today.
|
|
|
|
|
