The Fuel Relay diagnosis seems bogus, based on missing fuse 4 and corroded Fuel relay. Here is my take on your photos (numbered as they appear for consistancy):

1) Not sure on this one. Not critical for starting/running, IMO. Maybe for underhood light.
2) These 2 wires are test points. Red for AMM adjusting, Blue-White for idle speed setting.
3) "Service Socket", which energizes starter when +12V jumper is applied.
4) Fuses 4 and 6 are missing. #4 should be in for Tank pump. #6 doesn't matter, as it's not used in U.S. cars
7–10) Fuel relay ruined by water leak (relay was probably dangling from wires) The Main relay might work, but the integrated pair is worthless.

Fuse Jumpering–Fuses 5 and 7 are NOT the ones to jumper for LH FI. Use 4 (to pumps) and 6 (for +12V). Fuse 6 (left side) is just a handy voltage source. Any fuse 6–10 would do just as well. They are all "hot" all the time. Voltage applied to Fuse 4 (left/input) bypasses the fuel relay and goes two ways:
• Thru fuse to Tank pump
• Directly to Main Pump

NOTE that this jumpering will run pumps (immediately), but unless the Main FI relay is working (the "decent" one in the photos), the motor will not start.
See THIS POST for details on complete relay bypassing.

Note too that the Fuse 4 "relay jumper" also bypasses the 25 Amp blade fuse and its wiring, which is also a known trouble source and supplies ALL voltage to the FI system.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.