Several times I've wrestled with the donut hangers for the first muffler, and never got them properly installed till yesterday. The hangers mightily resist your efforts to stretch them to hook them over the brackets. Photos below show how I got them in.

A mechanic friend of mine uses a different method - a very large pair of pliers to pull the muffler into position so the hanger can be popped into place. The method below worked for me with the tools I had available.

First photo shows the left side brackets after right side mount was installed, with tension rope in place. Without tension the gap is much wider. Note the fat, stretch resistant mount.

Second photo shows rope anchored to front of rear trailing arm. Wood stick tightens rope and is tied down to lock.

Third photo shows similar rope anchored to rear sway bar with wrench stuck into rope to tighten. Forward end of that rope is looped through the bracket base at front top of muffler.

I used a similar setup on the rear muffler to pull it over sideways so I could get the second mount in place.

Other times I've used one old donut mount. These are a lot stretchier and will go into place. But they fail early without telling you, causing the pipe system to hang crooked and probably fail early.

First, hang both mufflers. Then assemble the pipes to the mufflers with clamps on loose. Sliding both pipes fully onto the first muffler will likely give you an overall length that's too short, pulling on the second muffler. Pay attention to where and how they hang before attaching pipes so you can approximate that.

A 3 lb. hammer is good for driving the 2nd muffler off the cat converter pipe and for adjusting the position of the new one.

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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.

Hi,

I have done two exhaust systems and both times I used IPD's exhaust hanger tool which works really well once I remember how the hook/turn/twist method goes. Most of their tools they sell are usually overpriced a bit. They are also usually the OEM brand tools you find at Autozone. But for the $13 I paid it is well worth it and I couldn't find it offered elsewhere.

Travis

I got one at AZ during a sidewalk sale for %50 off, couldn't resist.
Dan

You're right. This tool looks like it would do the trick.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"I think that's how Chicago got started. Bunch of people in New York said, 'Gee, I'm enjoying the crime and the poverty, but it just isn't cold enough. Let's go west.'" (Richard Jeni)

Hi Art,

I started thinking and did a little research...

Back when I bought the IPD tool I had researched where else I could find the exhaust hanger tool and came up with nothing then.

Just did a bit of research and it showed up on the Autozone site (which carries the same OEM brand tools and Great Neck tools that IPD sells) but it looked like it was not available for some reason to be shipped to the store.

Found it here for $7!

http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-Exhaust-Donut-Stretcher/dp/B004FEJIW8

As I said I used it twice for complete exhaust installations (90 244 & 92 245) and it worked great. Seems pretty solid too-I thought it might bend under pressure, but it didn't.

Travis

Being totally cloistered in Volvos for the past decade, I had no idea the donut stretching business would be so universal as to merit a tool sold in Autozone. Every so often I'm in a town with an Autozone -- Mrs. B doesn't mind at all if we take a stroll down the aisles. Never have bought anything though. $7 Father's Day gift for the man who has everything?? (grin)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"I don't think you can get cold in Volvo 240 series. The AC can't do it and the heater won't let you." -darkdelta

Cool! Thanks for the tip.

I installed a new exhaust system for my 240 a few months ago but couldn't get both donut hangars installed, so I just used one.

I wonder if using both hangars would be stretching them too much, which would keep them under constant tension and lead to premature failure.
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 314,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

I suppose this old thread is due for an update, no?

When we all trash the URO & ScanTech rubber parts on this board, I immediately think of the donuts and pin hangers that come with my Starla kits. They don't last long at all. And the donuts that go in the front muffler seem to lack elasticity. That's my impression, anyhow.

This thread escaped me the first time around, as I had come up with my own "method" of getting that front muffler hung. This post is 3 years older than the current thread: installing_oem_exhaust_tips
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Remember in elementary school, you were told that in case of fire you have to line up quietly in a single file line from smallest to tallest. What is the logic in that? What, do tall people burn slower?" (Warren Hutcherson)

I ordered my exhaust kit from FCP, although for the life of me I can't remember if it was a Starla or Walker. It went on very easily with the aid of exhaust paste. I coated the high-quality clamps with the paste in hopes of shielding it from corrosion.

Anyway, the donut on the old exhaust was still in good shape; we'll see how well the new donuts hold out. I can always put the old donut back on if the new one craps out.
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 314,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

Starla=Walker. Same kits I've been using. This board used to get frequent posts "discovering" Walker's name embossed on the muffler under the Starla sticker.

Good idea to hang on to serviceable older rubber items, I think.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving an infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." (Dave Barry)

Wow, I just saw a suggestion thread I had posted back in '08 and noticed my car's mileage at a "young" 379K miles at the time. Alot has changed in my ride since then esp the current mileage.....I never dreamed it would have made it that far.
--
'86 sedan with 456,000 miles on the original engine and automatic transmission

All that running around finding parts will add up!Plus I notice in FL. it's easy to rack up the miles.

Nice!

After hours of struggling on a cold, wet, and muddy January afternoon, I finally got smart and used a similar method:

Rope around the "hook" (closest to the driveshaft) on the muffler with a loose bowline knot, through the rubber doughnut, then around the hook on the car side, then tied tight to a stationary object somewhere not too far from the passenger side of the car.

With one hand you can pull down on the rope, which will easily tighten the rope, which will bring the two hooks right next to each other, then it's simple to put the doughnut in place. Then untie the knot and pull the rope out. A trucker's hitch can be your friend as well.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

I just installed a new pair last week on my '86 sedan with the use of a large screwdriver and just pushing the muffler with my knee towards the side I was installing. I grunted for a few minutes, but it did seat into place. Hope this helps someone else.
--
'86 sedan with 379K miles with original engine and automatic transmission

That's my method, The knee to hold the muffler up and the grunt for, well, it helps.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Second the screwdriver or the $8 Lisle muffler hanger tool (basically a custom bent screw driver) specifically designed for this job. Never needed more than that.
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'92 240 wagon, 270k, '88 240 sedan 281k

After all the grunting and hard work installing my Starla system. I see that my donuts are starting to crack and go bad already. They've only been installed for months not years. One of the original Volvo donuts that I kept is in better shape than the new ones from FCP. So I guess I'll have to order some from Volvo. I just can't believe the after market ones are so worthless. I hate feeling like a sucker. Anyway Sven, I like your idea of using a rope and a stick to tighten. I just might try this the next go'round.
Charles

Hey can you tell me what size /part number clamps FCP sent you? I had to replace an exhaust on my 92 240.I had a complete kit put away for another car.Long story short only one clamp would fit,the other 3 were too small!I bought the kit a few years ago.All the part numbers for the clamps are the same 976587 but 3 don't fit.Wrong part in right bag?

These tricks were amazingly simple and effective. I used a 4 foot piece of hemp rope wrapped around the muffler and the trailing arm and tied in a square knot. Stuck a screwdriver in and twisted, all the while watching the hangars until they came close enough I could slide the ring around 'em. I did the passenger side first, then the driver side (make sure you don't interfere with anything like the fuel pump). This made the job super-easy!