Just would like some confirming voices.

All happy having just finished my first timing belt, plus I did all 3 front shaft seals (used the "remove carrier" method), and had to reseal the water pump (which is what prompted the whole project). Had a scare when it wouldn't fire on first test, but realized I had pulled the distributor wire when bumping the crank with the starter (whew!).

Anyway, immediately on startup, I noticed an unusual, inconsistent sound, that appeared to be coming from the main pump under the car, behind the driver's seat (mine's a turbo). I'm thinking that the pump was likely making this noise before the timing belt change, but I just didn't notice it, because my crank pulley had separated and was grinding into the timing belt cover.

Wanting to hear it more clearly with the engine off, I ground the plastic top of a fuse down, so I could clip to it. I inserted this fuse into position 11, and fed 12 volts. The main pump came on, and after about 10 seconds, I could at times hear some of the inconsistent noises I had heard before. It dawned on me then that maybe the in tank pump wasn't working and that's what was causing the main pump to labour. I pulled fuse 11, jumpered to only the terminal towards the back of the car and heard the main pump again, then jumpered to only the terminal towards the front of the car, and heard nothing. I realize it can be a bit hard to hear the in tank pump, but I then repeated the same test using an ammeter. The main pump pulled about 6 amps (although it sounded a little lower pitched, so I guess the meter isn't a true short), but when I jumpered to the front-most terminal, there was no current draw.

I'm assuming that the in tank pump is dead, but would like some confirmation on my conclusion, in case I'm missing something. I suppose it could be wiring. Does this pump get a ground through the harness, or through the sender frame?

I've done a couple of 240 in tank pumps, so I'm thinking this one shouldn't be so bad, save for the seal. Art's procedure in the FAQ will no doubt be helpful.

Thanks,

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David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near Toronto

You went through a pretty thorough diagnosis. Besides the noise, what does or doesn't your car do with the in-tank pump not working?
Does your B230FT still run okay?
Thanks
E-J
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EJO now a 1993 944T 207K; ex '65 123S; ex '75 245; and ex '81 242GT; also 2001 Kia Sportage, Chrysler 2002 T&C and 2006 MINI Cooper

Good diagnosis Dave. You've proven that the Tank pump isnt working. The next place to check (IMO) is a 4-pin plug in the left rear wheelwell area. (Shown in Art's Regina pump photo series I think.)

The pin 1 Pink wire carries the +12V from fuse 11 to the pump.
Pin 4 Black is the ground from pump to one of two frame ground points:
• Wagon—at the bottom of the left taillight unit.
• Sedan—under the trunk lip threshold cover, to the left of center.

Pins 2 and 3 in that connector (Brown and Green-White wires) are for the fuel sender – gauge circuit.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Thanks for the pinout details, Bruce. I pulled the trunk liner and access plate. Indeed, an ohmmeter showed no continuity between pins 1 and 4 of the pump/sender harness.

One thing that troubles me about this harness, is the way the strain relief is done on the top of the pump/sender unit. (You can see it clearly in the top left corner of the picture in Art's FAQ procedure, where he talks about using penetrant to coax the connector loose). There's a U-shaped structure that the harness passes through, with grooves in the stalks of the U, and a short "mechanical" wire that I guess press fits into the grooves to pinch the harness against the top plate of the pump/sender unit. It would seem to me that this wire might pinch the electrical conductors in the harness. Has anyone ever found this to be the case? I didn't really want to cut into the harness to verify this. If I don't though, I won't find out until I've already purchased the replacement pump, and pulled the pump/sending unit.

If I do proceed and buy a new pump, assuming it's failed, I've at least prepped for the job. I verified that the filler hose clamp hasn't failed due to rusting (worked it loose and re-tightened with no problems). Same is true of the clamp on the pump/sending unit lock ring. For the vent hose, I tried to loosen the torx screw, but even after penetrant and a wait, it simply bent the hose clamp strap. In a sense, I'm lucky it is so rusted, because I simply twisted the screw section back and forth about a dozen times, and the clamp strap broke completely in two. I've replaced it with a new hex nut hose clamp. For the pump outlet, unlike the quick disconnect compression fitting in Art's example procedure (and I've seen this on a 740), my 940 has the same basic hose clamp with a torx screw, as per the vent hose. I should be able to simply bend this one also to break it off. I think I'll try to get the return line spring clamp off with pliers; as long as I first tape over all the openings into the tank, and have a fan operating to ensure there is no fumes buildup, I should be able to slide the clamp up the hose before pulling the hose and introducing more fumes.

I did notice one more clamp not mentioned in Art's procedure. The wide filler hose has a small tube Y-branching off it, that fits onto a tube several inches to the left of the plate opening, and up fairly high, close to the trunk shelf. I'm assuming its a case of either that the 740 model, or the Regina setup doesn't have this Y-branch. I'm hoping I can get the large hose off the pump/sender unit, and get it out of the way to the left, without having to disturb this smaller Y-branch clamp. I see that Art pulled the large hose to the right and back, which would not be possible without disconnecting the Y-hose I'm talking about, so I'm curious what others have done with this on a 940.
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David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near Toronto