So the newly aquired 740GLE wagon needs a water pump. Last water pump I did was about 4x years ago(on a 240) so i am rusty/forgetful. Have a Hepu on order from FCP. Should be here Tommorrow. I know about pressing pump up with a crowbar & tightening quickly so as to assure a tight seal. Not sure if I should put gasket on dry or use a sealant. If I should use a sealant what brand/type is recomended ? Both sides or just one side ? If one side which side ? Rubber seals I assume go on dry ? Or use sealant on those also ? Thanks very much.
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' 86 manual sedan nearly 210,000 and ' 87 auto sedan nearly 125,000

Only hting I would add, and do differently is use Indian Head gasket sealer (varnish), not silicone rubber sealant. It holds up longer, adheres to sealing surfaces better, and doesn't migrate like silicone.
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'89 245 sportwagon, destroyed by hit & run driver, RIP. '04 V70 2.5 T Sportwagon, 12k mi and '91 245 5-speed, 209k mi, replaced the '89

So proud of my water pump master mechanic skills I took it for a drive and threw the fan on the highway, snapped 2 fan studs.
Luckily I had replacement studs and nuts , they went on with loctite. The manual says don't reuse the 10mm nuts.
I thought everyone probably re-uses the nuts but had ordered them when I got the pump. They seem to be very soft and get rounded off easily.

As you may have gathered, the easy mistake is to pinch the seal that goes to the heater pipe and have a leak. BTDT. I add the coolant after I put the pump on but before I put the fan and belts back. That way if you have a leak you can tell before you have to do then undo the extra work. Once you figure the relationship of the seal and the levering you should be pretty good.

The nuts on the fan pulley can be awkward to get at. You can rotate the fan by moving the bolt on the crankshaft with a 24mm socket. Don't go crazy with the torque on the fan and waterpump. They can snap if you get too crazy.

Protect the radiator with a piece of card board.
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Paul NW Indiana '89 740 Turbo 140,000

Pretty much agree with the rest of the gang. Exept I do put a film of Silicone gasket stuff on both sides of the Gasket. Those particular gaskets are like paper so I kie the insurance of taking up any imperfections with the silicon. just the slightest film of the stuff.

I also put a film on both the rubber seals. It help them slide easier as well as seal when they dry.

Look at the new pump. The two slotted holes ( 11:00 and 4:00 positions ) are not slotted a whole lot. So there isn't a lot of movement upward. Don'r break the two studs by cranking the hell out of the leverage bar. I just pull up with my hand and tighten with the other hand.
The lower Timing belt cover interferes a bit. You will see this when removing the old pump. you have to play with that a bit...that's usually when you screw up the Gasket : )

The rear tube: ther eis a 10mm nut holding that tube to the pump so look for that. there is also a clamp holding that tube to the engine block. unbolt that, it will give you a little more movement in the pipe to install.


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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Read the FAQ. A very excellent tip is to cram a paper towel into the lower timing belt cover so that there is no chance of losing a nut or bolt down in there.

Clean clean clean those gasket surfaces! A cheap razor is a handy scraper, and keep the corners of it away from the gasket surfaces. Don't forget the area on the block around the studs! Clean the heater return pipe well.

I've heard of a few folks who put the heater return pipe seal in the pump first: no no no! The seal goes around the pipe first, and then into the pump.

I've done a few B230 water pumps now, and haven't used sealant anywhere (I don't even own any form of automotive sealant!). Though I've always used blue box Volvo pumps. Get the surface clean, and you should be OK.

As for mounting the pump, put the gaskets/seals in place. Put the pump against the block. *Loosely* install the nuts on the studs. Snag one of the 10mm hex head bolts, and find something sorta long to pry with. 1/2" drive ratchet works OK. You don't need to pry that much. Prepare some choice expletives to mutter....

Put the bolt you just grabbed into one of the holes in the pump , hold the bolt with forefinger and thumb, and turn your forearm as counterclockwise as it'll go. Pry the pump up. Push the bolt in towards the block, while turning clockwise. Find its hole! Shout expletives now. If at first you don't succeed, try again... perhaps use a different hole. Once you get one bolt threaded, *don't* wrench it up tight! Get the rest threaded and tighten them sequentially.

You should be in business... fill with coolant and fire her up.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club

After cleaning up the gasket surfaces and water tube. I also used sensor safe gasket sealer on the gasket and rubber seals (a little goes a long way). Just like said earlier install the rubber seal on the tube first. It took a little wiggling to get all of the bolts to line up. I have about 3000 miles since I replaced my water pumps no leaks.

I install the gasket between the pump and the block dry.

I put a coating of silicone sealant on the pipe before I slide on the rubber seal and then coating on the seal before I slide it into the waterpump- slides on real nice that way and helps seal when it sets.

I clean the head where the other seal contacts with lacquer thinner after making absolutely sure the aluminum surface is spotlessly clean. I put a layer of silicone in the depression where the other seal fits and then I put a coating on the surface of the seal that contacts the head.

I wait overnight before adding coolant and startig the car.

Randy

Some will disagree, but I used sensor safe silicon on all my gaskets, etc..
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I found it a beech to install, put that down to unfamiliarity and not realizing how much force is required to lever it upwards.

I also didn't know where to place a lever for good positioning, once I figgered that out it was easy, then it leaked out the rear seal.
I made the mistake of installing the rubber (rear) seal in the pump and pushing the heater pipe into it, so it got pinched...

the correct way is put the seal on the pipe and push both into the pump. I put everything on dry and otherwise nothing leaked once I got that rubber seal right.

Besides all that, there was nothin to it.