I think I'd bleed/replace the clutch fluid and re adjust the slave pushrod setting. You may not have changed the fluid when you did the clutch and the clutch probably needs adjusting now that it is bedded in. Remotely, if the clutch fluid has picked up a lot of water, that water could freeze making the fluid very mushy until it warmed up. If reverse is hard to find, slip it into first before trying reverse. As there is no syncro on reverse this seems to align the cogs and makes selection of reverse easier.

Why not back into the driveway when you get home?
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '95 855, '95 854, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 435,000 miles put on 9 bricks

I have had that when the temps get down to around 0F, which it has been lately. And it is usually not the tranny or clutch, but the linkage.
On my trusty Jeep, it was the shift gate that was just a few mm off after raising it. In the 122, it may be the socket that gets too cold and shrinks just enough that the tranny doesn't get to reverse, but is still in neutral.

Once the center tunnel warms up from the exhaust pipe, everything works OK.

Klaus
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The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :)

Hey chasmataz,
Can you describe in more detail what you mean by "the tranny just spins"?
I'm not sure what you mean.
Cold should not affect the clutch fluid.

I've noticed on my 145 lately that it is a little more stubborn going into first on cold mornings when the choke is out (1500 rpm or so.)
Strange, it didn't used to do that with the D-type w/ 30W in my 144.
I've been blaming my problem on the use of RedLine MTL which I've only started using in a J-type. I figure since it's synthetic, everything is spinning easier. I kind of doubt that is the reason though. I suspect the clutch.

I may switch back to 30W as an experiment. Generally I prefer the synthetics though.

--
Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV