Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 7/2008 200 INDEX

[<<] [>>]

THREADED

THREADED EXPANDED

FLAT

PRINT ALL

MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD

REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE

SAVE

replacing oil pump 200

posted by someone claiming to be neils on Tue Oct 30 05:34 CST 2007 [RELATED]

My mechanic says that to replace the oil pump he has to lift the engine out slightly, and that it is a big job since the oil pan doesn't open that much.
Is this true? How long would it take to replace the oil pump?
1991 240 Volvo with 267,000 miles.

Thanks,
Neils

REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE

SAVE

replacing oil pump 200

posted by Cliff Pope on Thu Nov 1 21:22 CST 2007
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]

[IGNORE ALL POSTS]

last visit: Thu Feb 3 05:28 CST 2011

[RELATED]

You don't need to touch the subframe.
Lift the engine as high as possible, remove the left hand support bracket, and drop the pan as far as possible. It won't drop completely because the pump catches on an oil baffle plate.
Reach in and undo the two oil pump nuts, and drop the pump into the pan. Then you can turn the pan through 90 degrees and withdraw it.
Fit new pump, and offer up the pan. Note where the baffle catches it, and make a slit with metal cutters and bend the baffle up a bit. Put the pan back past the pump, then reach in and bend the baffle straight again.

No other dismantling involved. I got the tip here on Brickboard, and it works.

REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE

SAVE

replacing oil pump 200

posted by Paul Driver of Inga on Tue Oct 30 05:58 CST 2007
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]

[IGNORE ALL POSTS]

last visit: Sun Mar 25 16:42 CST 2012

[RELATED]

That is quite a job actually. I had an issue where the oil pressure light kept popping on all of sudden. Sought pro help after replacing the sending unit and going over everything. At my request he looked up the changing the oil pump and the book showed it to be a several hour job. Can not remember the exact quote but is was over the $700 mark with the pump. You have to lift the engine and remove part of the cross member I think. Did not have to get it done, it was a defective oil filter thank the lord.

To get a better idea suggest reading up on one of Art's adventures. Go to Oil Pan removal to get an idea what you are up against.

http://cleanflametrap.com/oilpan/

Good Luck,

PT

REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE

SAVE

replacing oil pump 200

posted by Volvo From Heck on Wed Oct 31 15:47 CST 2007
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]

[IGNORE ALL POSTS]

last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014

[RELATED]

I've done that job a number of times. You have to have a jig to support the motor. I built a simple A-frame with lumber--rests on the inside edge of the fenders with a chain to the front motor hoist hook. You can then remove the 3 nuts from each of the motor mount bases. With the car elevated and jack stands placed at the jacking points, support the subframe with a jack and then from inside the engine compartment remove the subframe bolts-2 on each side along the frame rails. When you lower the jack the subframe should drop enough to wiggle the oil pan out--it's a tight fit. It is possible to get the pump changed without totally removing the pan but you need small hands to slip into the gap--not like mine. Most important is to be sure you actually need the pump. The oil pressure switch is easy enough to reach--remove it and temporarily install a mechanical gage. If you know someone into british sports cars they're bound to have a used one laying around--new plumbing parts are cheap. Remember, the wiring to the oil switch is prone to peeling its insulation and when shorted the light comes on.

REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE

SAVE

replacing oil pump 200

posted by Rule 308 on Wed Oct 31 16:58 CST 2007
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]

[IGNORE ALL POSTS]

last visit: Tue May 8 09:20 CST 2012

[RELATED]

That is a fantastic write up on Art's sight for the oil pump R&R. The only thing that I would add is to turn loose the lower control arm bushings where they mount in the rear, this will allow you to swing the engine subframe forward. Also remove the sway bar where it mounts to the body. It is an involved deal for sure, I just finished up a crankshaft replacement in a '93 940, very similar.

Mark

<< < > >>

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.