With the car's Body on jackstands, Has anyone unbolted the Front bolt of the trailing arm and pulled the arm down to look at the solid Bushings?
I know you might be fighting against the Coil Spring, that's why I ask.
I have recently done the Trailing arm bushings (the ones in the axle)and I did Poly's in the Torque rods but I did not do the bushings in the front end of the trailing arm. I thought maybe it's worth a sneak-peak if I can do it 'easy'.
I didn't replace these with the others because in the past when I did ALL the rear bushings, These all-solid rubber ones came out looking brand new. along with the bushings in that Bar behind the axle ( what the heck is the name of that suspension bar anyway?)
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I don't guess anyone has ever needed to do that. The front bushing in the trailing arm seems trivial to the suspension and hardly taxed at all. Even so, it might be tough getting the arm twisted right to get the bolt back through, if you have to work lying on the ground.
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-K (hope springs eternal)

" ( what the heck is the name of that suspension bar anyway?) "

I think you are talking about the Panhard bar (or track rod). It locates the rear end laterally.
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Yes, that's it thanks
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I suppose you could just pop the bolt and pry it down for a look see. Would have been better to replace while doing the TABs, since you have to take the darn things off anyway .
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually

I guess that my concern. How much spring pressure will be fighting me since the pivot point will be the Shock mount.

When I do the Trailing arm bushing in the axle, no need to fully take out the Trailing arm, just rock it down out of teh way.

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

The easiest way would be to remove the arm and pop that front bushing out with a press and the new one in the same way ( if going poly, you'l need to chisel/grind off the little extra allignment plate on the frame )
I suppose it's possible to leave the arm in and pressthe bush out with big bolt and washers/sockets etc, but I own a press, so i haven't tried it that way.
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually