Hello Gentlemen,
I noticed several spots of what I confirmed to be ATF under my sons 1988 765 and upon further inspection noted substantial slop at the flange tailshaft area which has fouled the seal. I'd be more than happy to provide a deposit as well as reasonable fee to rent the tool for this repair. I'm located in So. Cal and can pay via paypal.

Regards

I've replaced the tailshaft bushing and seal on several 200/700/900 vehicles and I don't have the special tool that allows you to remove the old bushing without taking removing the flange. However, it's not the end of the world as you can still do the operation by unbolting the tailshaft housing from the transmission.

If you order the "Tailshaft Bushing Kit" from FCP Groton, it will come with a replacement bushing, an oil seal, and the tailshaft housing gasket. By removing the entire tailshaft housing, you can press out the old bushing and press in a new one. Since several quarts of ATF are going to come out in the process, this is best combined with a fluid flush and pan cleaning (the worn clutch pack material settles into the bottom of the transmission pan an merits cleaning out (do not bother with the tranny "filter" as it's simply a wire mesh screen and will not clog with the worn clutch pack material.

Here's what I would recomend (and it's what I've done so far everytime):
1. Jack up the car, chock (fore and aft) the wheels that remain on the ground, and unbolt the driveshaft from the transmission.
2. Drain the transmission fluid from the pan.
3. Remove the dipstick tube fitting (using a lot of P-Blaster and a pair of 12" or larger crescent wrenches).
4. Remove the tranny pan, clean out the sediment.
5. Remove the tailshaft flange (single large bolt in the center), and then unbolt the tailshaft housing.
6. Press out the old bushing and seal and press in the new ones that came in the kit (be sure to keep the small hole in the side of the new bushing aligned the same way as the old one came out).
7. Install the tailshaft housing using the new gasket that came with the kit. Be sure that the bolts are clean and not covered with ATF as it reduces the chance that they can loosen up over time. (I personally use a dab of RTV on them to keep them in place.)
8. Install the transmission pan using a new rubber gasket (Napa part number 1-5131 which costs about $4, and is the same gasket that comes in their $20 "kit" that includes the filter that we don't need to replace).
9. Reattach the tailshaft flange and driveshaft.
10. Fill with 4 quarts ATF and then proceed with the transmission flushing method of your choice. Most people prefer to disconnect the tranny cooler line at the radiator or the transmission and run about 8 to 10 quarts of ATF through the system.

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.

Do you have to remove the pan to do this job? Isn't ther severe risk associated with removing the dip stick tube and pan? Or is that only on the 240's? I am looking at doing the same job myself it the near future...

thanks

"Do you have to remove the pan to do this job?"

No, you don't have to remove the pan, but a lot of tranny fluid is going to leak out as soon as you start unbolting the tailshaft housing. That's why I combine the two operations into one. Also, when flushing the tranny fluid, there is a risk that you might stir up sediment and particle matter on the bottom of the pan that's not being held by the magnet (which is an undersized magnet for the durations that we run, feel free to swap it out with a bigger one or toss in 3 more). Needless to say, you don't want to suck up a lot of sediment into the valve body...

"Isn't ther severe risk associated with removing the dip stick tube and pan? Or is that only on the 240's?"

I haven't broken one yet, but I have heard of the occasional horror story, etc, etc. However, I'm guessing that they probably didn't soak the joint with P-Blaster ahead of time, and probably used only a single crescent wrench which would have put too much stress on the pan fitting. If you use a pair of 12" or 16" cresent wrenches, you should be ok. One wrench to turn the nut, and the other to hold the pan fitting to keep it from moving and putting stress on the pan. By the way, the pan is the same on the AW-70, AW-70L, AW-71, and AW-72L. The only 240/740/940 Volvo to get a different pan is the very early 240s with Borg-Warners and the 700 cars that came with the ZF tranny. In the event of a freak accident in that you do break the fitting off the pan, have your spouse run you down to the salvage yard for 10 minutes and grab another one from a donor 240 or 740/760.

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.