Hi..I have a 1985 Volvo 240 wagon and the headlights and parking lights quit working the other day. The fuse is good and the flash to pass (when you pull on the turn signal stalk) clicks the relay under the hood and all four headlights come on. The headlights and parking lights will not work when the headlight switch is turned on. I can not find a headlight relay under the dash where the Haynes manual says it is. The 1984 and later wiring diagram looks to me like there is only the one relay? Is there one or two? Do you think it could be the switch or is it unlikely that both parking and headlight selections would fail at the same time? Any other hints where to look further?

Hmmm. The headlights work OK (all four light up) for the passing signal flasher, right?

So no bad bulbs or blown fuses. And, not a bad ground on the stalk switch. Rats, those are the easy diagnoses.

As I recall, there is not another relay on the 1985 model. The additoinal relay started with 1986.

There is a possibility of a failure in the stepping relay contacts. That is the realy that goes "clunk" in the engine bay when hitting the stalk. It is a silver box, about 1" wide, 2" high and 2" long, mounted on a rail on the left inner fender just rear on the battery.

they seldom go bad, and are the same p/n for almost all 240 years. Get some at a junk yard and test.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Bad contacts on the fender-mounted relay are possible, as B.C. suggested. That would be the "incoming" lead, coming from the headlight switch. The output side of that relay seems to be OK. I believe the incoming is a yellow wire, and it's pretty thick.

The main reason for the introduction of the main headlight relay (at driver's kick panel) in the '86 and later cars was the too-frequent failure of the headlight switch on the dash. It carries a lot of current especially when you use the high beams.

So look into that switch if the relay doesn't answer your problem. The output wire at switch is the same one that's input at the relay, thick and likely yellow.

Also you should find 12 volts going into the switch. Not sure if that will require the ignition switch to be in some particular position but you will figure that out.

For your parts search:
According to fcpgroton.com ("Relays and Switches" page)
'76 - '84 used either a 3-pin or 5-pin (blade) switch.
'85 used only the 5-pin version of the above two.
'86 and laster used a different switch.
Priced at $10 and $13, not too bad.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns, tach, small clock. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.

I've got an '85 245 with the same headlight issue. I've got 12 volts going through the socket for the switch, so it appears the switch is bad. I have two questions:
1. Has anyone ever disassembled the headlight switch to repair it?
2. Can I do something temporarily to have headlights while I am waiting for the new switch to arrive?

Thanks for your help!

Hello,


These rotary headlamp switches are straight dangerous! I know that millions use them every night, but as they age, they seem to get hot. I went through three switches on my 1977 before I had a fire.

Electrical Fire - Headlamp Switch - Wire Insulation Failure