After finally making all the flares for my new brake lines, it appears that the brass unions are the culprit for a few of my leaks. There are scars on the seats from the previous flares. I am going to go ahead and remake the flares on the lines where I have leaks just to be sure, but I think I need to get new unions. The guy at my local chain autoparts store shrugged his shoulders when I asked to see their selection.

Swedish Treasures has the rear three way joint for $27, but I can't find the front 4 way union on the website. Sounds a bit steep for a piece of brass.... I wouldn't mind remounting a generic solution.

Any ideas?

Hey Texas,

I have always just trashed brass once it has been scarred. But I had a brainstorm just now while pondering your problem. Well, brainstorm might be a bit strong; more like a synaptic squall. ;-)

I don't know if this will work or not but is inexpensive. Chuck the brass in the vise (just snug; don't squeeze it). Make a flare on a piece of line about a foot long. Wrap the other end of the line with duct tape to make a handle. Put some lapping compound on the seat of the brass. Use the flared line just like you would a lapping tool to lap the seat. Clean it off and see if you made any headway on the scarring. If you are successful go ahead and clean up all the ports in the same manner. Be sure to clean ALL the lapping compound out of the brass block. Rinse with brake fluid before installing it.

Just in case; you use a lapping tool by holding it between the flattened palms of your hands and making a motion like a Boy Scout trying to create fire with a stick; back-and-forth rapidly.

Let us know if this works. I have never heard of anyone doing this but I think our grandfathers would have tried it before walking to the parts store to get more brass. You do what you have to do.

BTW, on that front block -- if you count the switch port, that is a five way junction block.

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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Jack thanks for the kind offer. I am going to try Shannon's lapping idea to see if that will remedy my problem first before I go any further. The die that I was using to make the first part of the flare started to get worn out where the tool presses it down and would not press down evenly, and could be the cause of two of my leaks. Hopefully between a new die and the lapped brass, I can remedy my situation. I'll update you guys with my results.

They indeed are the ones where the threads start at the edge of the brass.....

I took the 4-way union from my parts wagon and it too had some scars where the flare seats. I can't win for losing.

I have two actually, but I wanted to hang on to my original single circuit brake parts in case I get another wagon.

I found an extra one of those brass T-junctions in my parts boxes so I could send it your way if you need that one. I don't think I have a spare 4-way but I'll look about.

e-mail me off-list if you want me to send you the 3-way repairmanjack/at/sbcglobal/dot/net.

About your scarred surface. When I split my single circuit into a rear and forward circuit when I set up my 1800-style master cylinder, I plugged the lower connector on the 4-way with a 5/16-20 pitch stainless steel bolt and I used a copper crush ring from an assortment I picked up at Harbor Freight for $5.00.
When I torqued it down good, the copper squished a bit and it sealed *very* well. No leakage for the 6 months I ran with that setup. Perhaps you could try something similar with your brakeline fitting to "persuade" it to seal...

Do you have the right unions? volvo ones are unique, they don't have an unthreaded nose on the front.

I have some 140 splitters
Ken
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69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL