So, I've got a noise/humming coming from the rear underside of my wagon, as you may have read in earlier postings. It's not the rear end, not the center support bearing, not number one or number two u-joints. But number three u-joint (at the differential flange) is binding. The old one seemed rough and was binding a little, and the new one seems to be binding in a similar but worse way. I've tried to carefully open the yokes a little with a pry bar. (Bad idea, I know, but I thought at least I might learn a small something that would hint at how many more trips I'll be making to the parts house. It doesn't look now like I changed it at all, anyway.) Because of the way the binding seems "off-center" I'm thinking that the mount for the u-joint may have been torqued funny during an earlier repair. Should I try another u-joint? Hunt up a boneyard propeller shaft? Stock up on ear plugs?
Thanks in advance for all your help!

"Should I try another u-joint? Hunt up a boneyard propeller shaft? Stock up on ear plugs? "

Too funny. My father in law would say "turn up the radio."

NAPA, less than 15 bucks. Be sure to mark the driveshaft with some distinct markings if you take it off, and use locktite on the yoke bolts when putting it back on.

I just got done on the driveshaft on our motorhome. Took about two hours, start to finish, three u-joints and the carrier bearing. BFH, one small socket and one big socket. Hold the shaft inside of the first cup as you tap it flush from the top - roller bearings cannot fall out. Then flip it over and move the propeller so it splits the difference between the installed cap and the second (to be installed) cap. Bearings cannot fall out. Once the clips are in, whack it good and make sure it's loose and free before bolting it back up, and you are good to go. Have fun!!

How did you install your u-joints? I ask because using the Big Hammer method can often cause a roller bearing to fall down between the cap and end of the joint. If this happens you might not notice; a big enough hammer will get it together far enough to install the clips without too much trouble because there is a little space at the ends for grease. Your assembly will be terminally unbalanced, though and will most likely bind as driving stress causes the joint to try to find it's 'natural' center.

I would disassemble the suspect joint and look for signs of broken or displaced rollers. A new u-joint is only a few bucks, and if you don't need it you can put it in your new JY shaft...

My 2 cents :)

Shifted
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--------1993 945 GLT 74,000--------1973 Suzuki Jimny 'Brute' 61,000--------

That's a good suggestion. I like your reference to the "Big Hammer" technique, though it's not an approach I used working on the u-joints. When my brother's faced with a particularly frustrating mechanical problem, he jokingly says it may be a job for the "BFH." I'll consider opening them up again. When installing the new joints, I was very careful in handling the caps so that I wouldn't accidentally jar one of the needle bearings loose. But, you never know. And something is definitely wrong. Thanks again!

I was going to say 'BFH' :)

Also known as a 'Ford Fine Adjustment Tool'.

I always pack a little extra grease in the caps before install to 'glue' the bearings in a little better, after an experience similar to yours (well I didn't swap rear ends)... ;)

Shifted
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--------1993 945 GLT 74,000--------1973 Suzuki Jimny 'Brute' 61,000--------

Once you pressed it in did you knock it back to
seat the cups against the circlips?
It will bind if you don't.
A vote for an unscathed prop from the JY
if this fails to make it run smoothly.
Ken
--
69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL

Thanks for the suggestion. I did knock the caps back. And I thought at the time, If only I had thinner circlips, this sucker would work. That would be nice.

No the circlips are correct,but if the cups aren't seated
against them it holds the cross to one side,& rubs ect.
I press with a vise,and seat with a brass hammer,
or aluminum pad and steel hammer.
Ken
--
69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL