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Some of you may be VCOA members and will soon get their Mar/Apr '07 issues of Rolling. This post is meant to supplement my article (pp 34-5 & 37) in that issue and further clarify (as in "one picture is worth a thousand words") the directions in that article.
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First, however, I should point out that I am grateful to Jan Nystrom (the editor) and to VCOA for publishing my article. This post is in no way intended to circumvent their intents and rights of the publication -- if anything, it should increase interest in BrickBoard members to become VCOA members and get copies of Rolling. However, there are space limitations for photos in any published article, and the photos included here in this post are mainly (if not entirely) to include those left out of the Rolling publication in order to, as noted above, supplement and clarify, if not also to pique the interest, in readers.
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To explain to those, and pique the interest of those others who don't, get Rolling, the article explains in detail how I converted my car to LEDs in the front and rear lamps. This was done for a variety of reasons discussed in the article, including (1) faster brake lighting, (2) eliminating the dreaded "sedan taillight syndrome" of multi-faceted ailments, and (3) because I like having brighter and yet lower-temperature lights, especially with LEDs' pronounced distinctiveness.
However, because I have been greatly disappointed with all manner of substitute "LED bulbs" available commercially, I did this by hand-soldering large arrays of LEDs (e.g., 180 on front turn signals, 90 on rear lights) onto perf boards (along with diodes, resistors, and voltage regulators -- all explained fully in the Rolling article).
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I retained my desired DRL functions in the front lights, as seen here. The photo shows both the DRL (upper) and turn signal (lower) lighted -- parking lights are just a dimmer version (fewer LEDs lit) of the DRLs.
This was accomplished by building the perf boards into the lamp housings, as in the following:
[Note that the black "stain" seen on the circuit boards above is a waterproofing coat ("Liquid Tape") that slightly seeped through the perf holes from the wiring side of the board and onto the sides (not the front) of some LEDs -- its appearance in this photo is a refracted view (through the LEDs) of its presence on the sides but isn't on, and doesn't interfere with the light output from, the front lens of the LEDs.]
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As for the taillights, the following shows, first, the BRAKE lights (taillights are also on, though). The LEDs are already installed on the right side (along with the center mounted lamp in the rear window), while the conventional incandescent bulbs are still on the left side for comparison:
To compare just the taillights (not brakes) and reverse or backup lights, again the LEDs are on the right, and the original incandescents are on the left:
And this was accomplished by building arrays on multiple circuit boards, one for each cell of the taillight housings. The boards are shown here, but have not yet been glued in place, nor hard-wired to the car's wiring harness -- this picture is just to show how nicely they fit into each cell after the OEM bulb sockets were cut out (with a dremel) leaving large rectangular holes to fit the perf boards:
And to handle side-lighting in the taillights, clarifying the article's verbal description, this shows (in one of the rectangular cutouts) how I placed sideways an additional small perf board's array of LEDs on the inboard edge of the lamp to face outboard, to illuminate the side marker light. Note that you are mainly viewing the freznel inner surface of a taillight lens:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
An important word about converting the flasher unit (turn/hazard relay or module): the published article left out an important caveat from my manuscript, that the conversion to an electronic unit (specifically a two-prong, EL12 type) is only necessary in '93 models. While it's necessary to convert to any (non-burned out bulb indicating) electronic unit (to keep the flasher speed slow despite lower current draw), the rewiring to a two-prong (from a three-prong) type discussed in the published article is, I believe, only necessary for '93 models. I believe that earlier cars (-'92) don't need this rewiring -- something major changed in '93, as any "look-up" book shows a conventional flasher up to '92, whereas '93 models aren't shown. I think that if you have a -'92 car, you can try an LED compatible 3-prong flasher first.
Also, in '93, the flasher is on the right (passenger) side of the center console, whereas in earlier cars, it's on the left (driver) side.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Finally, the published version of my manuscript left out some physilogical clarification of the significance of the increased lighting intensity of my LED arrays compared to the original incandescent lamps. The published article read that, for instance, that the turn signals are four times brighter, and the taillights are 15 times brighter, and the brake lights are six times brighter. However, some physiological clarifications are in order, but unfortunately were edited out, so I want to add here, that for these statements, the increases were measured based on a photo light meter on the EV scale, which is just a measure of the increased flux of photons, whereas humans' eyes do not respond proportionally to such measures of brightness -- our physiology responds more on a log scale of sensitivity, so that it takes orders of magnitude increases to ascertain a mere doubling of intensity. In other words, I am not claiming that the lights seem to be 15, or even 4, times as bright; I merely claim that they seem much brighter.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I hope that all this helped.
Regards to all
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Hi Ken,
Nice work on an epic project. I don't recall anyone has done this before with the running lights on a 240 - you must be the pioneer.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.
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Very nice! This represents a good effort to bring the 240 cars into the current century. Apart from the fact that the lamps now shine noticeably brighter, as proven by your pictures, I understand that LEDs also react faster than bulbs. Might be significant when panic braking in dense highway traffic.
I am happy to see that you seem to actually have overcome the technical challenges involved. I sent an email to Hella Germany a while back on Tony's behalf, in an attempt to get a diagram for the Bulb Out Relay. They never replied back.
Thumbs up!
Erling.
--
My 240 Page
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Hi.
re: "...I understand that LEDs also react faster than bulbs. Might be significant when panic braking in dense highway traffic...."
Yes, I wrote (in the Rolling article, 2nd par.) that an incandescent lamp takes 200 msec. (1/5 sec.) to light up, whereas an LED takes less than 1 msec. This amounts to 18 feet (approx. one car length) additional stopping distance at 60 mph.
[these illumination times are taken from Bosch's "Automotive Handbook", which I cited in my manuscript but found it edited out of the published version of my article.]
I have seen some circuit diagram of the bulb-out warning module here on BrickBoard. I remember it being a nifty little thing with (as I vaguely recall, perhaps) reed switches having coils around them (to react to the amounts of current flowing through the coils -- as I vaguely recall, if the coils don't generate balanced opposing magnetic fields, the reed switches change their state.
Anyway, perhaps a search in the archives would reveal what you're looking for.
Good luck.
And best regards,
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kyle 240
on
Tue Mar 13 06:45 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Better brake lights: I always thought it would be good idea for safety if the brake lights began to strobe rapidly based on the hydraulic pressure of panic braking, but became discouraged from prototyping this "safety advance" after learning it could result in felony arrest for impersonating a police officer. Instead, I just try to give the advance warning to the person behind me by flashing two or three hits on the pedal before meeting an unexpected traffic jam from freeway speeds.
Oh, and the diagram for the internals on the bulb out sensor is fairly well detailed in the Volvo Wiring Diagram Manual: reed switches that close when the two (or three) oppositely connected windings result in a net (uncanceled) magnetic field. The winding sizes are chosen with the current to the loads in mind- small for tail lights and large for head lights.
-K (hope springs eternal)
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re: "...Better brake lights: I always thought ... brake lights began to strobe rapidly based on the hydraulic pressure of panic braking...."
Hmmm. I think it was already invented (see #2 below). But some additional recollections to consider:
1) Most recently, the new S80 actually presents two different patterns of brake lights. One is the normal array of brake lights that's used in a normal stop (below 0.5 g deceleration), and a second, more brightly lit pattern of brake lights that *also* uses the rear fog lights for stopping at more than 0.5 g.
[I mentioned the fact about the S80 using the fog lights during intensive stopping in my Rolling article -- the source for this info is the new S80 brochure (the 37-page version), specifically on pages 13 and 17 -- although there's a curious discrepancy over whether there's a 0.5 or a 0.7 g threshhold.
2) There is already a device (I've seen it advertised, presumably with Fed. DOT approval) that motorcyclists could use (2-wheelers get away with a lot of things prohibited to 4-wheelers!) that would blink their brake lights at rates proportional to the g-force deceleration of their bike -- this is exactly(!) what you were trying to do, wasn't it? Only difference is that you wanted to use hydraulic pressure, while that device used g-force, which (with modern solid-state accelerometers) is probably just as easy to develop.
3) Quite a few years ago (but hadn't seen it lately), there was a device that could be mounted in the back window of a car (and a similar strategy appeared on the back of many interstate commerce buses such as Greyhound, etc.) where there were three lights, green, yellow and red. The green light stayed lit while you pressed on the gas pedal; the yellow light lit when you didn't have a foot on either gas or brake pedal; and the red light (redundant, along with regular brake lights) lit when you hit the brake pedal. The advantage here is that it (i.e., the yellow light, at least) warned drivers (at least those who understood the lights' meaning) behind that you were (or might be) moving your foot from the gas to brake pedal! I don't think it ever caught on -- but it would have given following drivers even more advanced warning, since nothing nowadays warns drivers earlier than when you step on the brake.
Clearly, of course, we want a device that will give following drivers as much advanced warning as possible.
Perhaps the S80's scheme is promising, at least being able to warn drivers of the intensity of the stopping by enhancing brake lighting as function of deceleration; and perhaps you can revise your scheme ... instead of pulsing or strobing lights, have multiple lights (or variable intensity lights), with the amount of lighting proportional to hydraulic pressure (or g-force). This may not be illegal. If you come up with something, let us (your friends on BrickBoard) know about it.
Good luck!
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Very cool project. A couple of questions.
1. On the front corners, during the daytime, I assume you can see the pcb's with led's on them. What dose this look like?
2. On your tail and stoplights, in your pictures I see a distinctive orange rectangle within each lens that is the size of the each pcb within the lens. Is this effect as pronounced as shown in your pics?
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Hi.
re: "On the front corners, during the daytime, I assume you can see the pcb's with led's on them. What dose this look like?"
Actually, it's rather hard to see the board because of the lens facets of the covering plastic, which breaks up the image. I happen to have a suitable picture that I took when I was building it. The lower turn signal is lit, but the upper part of the lamp isn't lit, and as you can see, there's just a hint of something brown only on the edge:
re: "On your tail and stoplights, in your pictures I see a distinctive orange rectangle within each lens that is the size of the each pcb within the lens. Is this effect as pronounced as shown in your pics?"
If you're talking about an apparent rectangular halo showing in the picture, it's strictly an illusion of the photographic image. To a human (my) eyes, there is just an intense brightess over most of the middle of the rectangular lens. However, it does follow the roughly rectangular shape of the taillight lens -- just no additional halo.
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I have been playing with this for a while.
I have a Circuit board designed but not manufactured. They have the Limiting resistors on the PCB as well.
The boards are made to house 14 bulbs. With a tight pattern so they will drop into the existing holes in the light fixture. I made holes in the board to ailign with the little plastic bumps in the fixture. My thought was to RTV them on or baby sheetmetal screws. Daisey chain wires from one board to the next as appropriate.
The one thing I wasn't sure of was how these low current LEDs were going to affect the Bulb out Sensor. I didn't calculate it but since I intended to put Running and Brake lights in all possible Lenses (as you did) I was hoping the current would be close enough to make the Bulb out sensor 'happy'.
I am already running a diode for the brake light/Fog lights so I get 4 lenses worth of Brakelights. I also added an afternarket socket in my empty red Lense for three across Running lights.
You beat me to the LED changeover. I'll get there
I'm a bit confused in the writing above... did you have Bulb Failure Sensor issues?
OH, Backup lights! Although LED's are designed to be brighter, they tend not to throw the light. Do the Backup lights throw enough light to help during night time driving?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Great minds think alike, they say.
Fourteen bulbs (I presume you mean LEDs) in each cell (i.e., for each original bulb) aren't going to be very bright, especially at a nominal 20 ma (to preserve the LEDs) -- I've tried commercial LED-substitute bulbs with as many as 20 or more LEDs (e.g., LEDTronics), and they're dismal. That's the very reason why I made large cutouts and mounted big panels -- it's the only way to get the illumination I wanted.
I don't think the bulb-out (bulb failure) sensor will be any problem as long as your LED count is roughly similar among not only your taillights (including the brakes' lights) but also between those same brake lights and the centered, back window brake light -- I didn't have any problem. My understanding of the bulb-out warning module is that it doesn't compare resistances or current to any pre-set value; rather, it merely compares the current flowing through various sets of lights (e.g., taillights, right v. left; brakes, right v. left; and for the center brake light, between it and one of the other brake lights), so as long as your sets consume equivalent currents, it won't throw any fits.
And as for the reverse (backup) lights, they're pretty bright (though remember that each of my backup cells has about 90 LEDs, and their LEDs are individually rated at 18,000 mcds, which is more than 3x the yellow's 5,000 mcd and almost twice the red's 10,000 mcd, if you can believe the manufacturer's spec sheet). Anyway, when I back out of the garage, they really light up my 'across the street' neighbor's yard -- but then, so do my brake lights :-) !
Here are some figures from my photometer, in EV scale (set arbitrarily to ISO 64) -- figures are before and after:
front parking lights, 9.6 and 10.0
front turn signals, 11.4 and 13.6
DRLs (clear lens), 11.7 (clear incandescent bulb) and 11.9
rear turn signals, 11.2 and 13.0
taillights (each cell), 7.4 and 11.3
brake lights (each cell), 10.0 and 12.4
fog lights, 10.4 and 12.4
reverse lights, 11.9 and 13.9
[keep in mind that the brightness is affected by the photometer's, a Sekonic brand, color sensitivity bias, so you can't easily compare, e.g., red and yellow light -- certainly, your eyes have different color sensitivity bias. And there are other limits as well.]
Anyway, you can see that the reverse lights are brighter (11.9 to 13.9), a jump of 2 units, which equates to a four-fold increase in photon flux -- each unit is a doubling of light exposure -- although just a modest increase in perceived brightness physiologically. Look at the picture I posted to see a better sense of what your eyes perceive. But an increase nevertheless.
Best regards,
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Ken:
Awesome job with excellent results! I look forward to reading the printed article this week. Just curious what you did on the regulators... linear with heat sink or switch mode Buck supply? You definitely put a lot of time and money into this effort, this might just give me "drive" to finish up the instrument cluster LED lighting (just finishing up the dimming control).
Seems like I might have some time over the next week to do this since I managed to screw up my ankle again... can you say cast??? sure I knew you could.
Once again, excellent job and thanks for sharing with us!
jorrell
ps. Come on guys, join VCOA if you haven't already, excellent magazine and great perks!
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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Hi, Jorrell.
Glad you liked it.
re: "...linear with heat sink or switch mode Buck supply?...."
I don't know what the latter is? I'd guess the former -- they're like the little voltage regulator (for the fuel and temp gauge) on the back of the instrument panel, a TO220 case that I bolted to a transistor-style heat sink. The particular one I chose was mostly NTE 1932 (as I recall), an output of 10v from at least 12.5v; I used a few 1953, too (the shop didn't have as many 1932s as I needed), and these had a lower input voltage of only 11.5v but were more expensive, so I allocated them just to the taillights in case I ever had to keep them lit with a drained battery (e.g., a breakdown on the side of the road?).
Sorry to hear about your cast -- hope it isn't on long.
re: your instrument cluster LED lighting, do write it up and send it to Rolling. The more articles makes membership more attractive!
And yes, it cost a bit (even buying LEDs in volume) -- but I think the time was even more precious. Fortunately, I did the LED soldering to the perf boards mostly in the evenings (I can't even begin to figure the number of hours -- a one or a few hours on a quiet evening) over a span of a few months. The wiring on the car (putting in the regulators, and installing "molex" plug-type connectors to the car's harness in case I ever had to swap out the lamps for OEM kinds) didn't take that long, though.
Anyway, hope your ankle is better soon.
Best regards,
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Ken:
Thank you for the reply and the concern about my ankle. The ankle will heal at its own rate since it is mostly torn muscle and ligaments... should be able to walk and put weight on it again in 2 or 3 days, after that, 3 to 4 weeks of "tender" walking. I blew the ligaments out of it 18 years ago for the first time, so for some strange reason I know what to expect!
On the regulator front, your approach is totally valid, just make sure that you evaluate the power dissipation of the regulators when the temperature in the trunk is at 85C, you typically do not want the junction temperature of the regulator to exceed 160C as it will cause failure.
If you want info on the switching power supplies/regulators, let me know I'd be more than happy to help out.... 80+% efficiency is a nice thing.
jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kyle 240
on
Mon Mar 12 01:50 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Hmmm. While we're adding a little FUD here (Ken, lick your index finger and test for sizzle on the heat sink) I wonder what NJ annual safety inspection's going to do to this gorgeous experiment. I hear they don't listen to all the practical advantages this has over the "sedan taillight syndrome", but then maybe that was the Molex Light Assembly Interchange (MLAI) plan. No chance they'll ever look at the front ones. Sorry Jorrell, just more bsme "what iffing", not a cloud in the sky for this parade.
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Kyle 240, sorry, couldn't figure out your IM lingo. Best I can tell is that you thought I rained on Ken's parade, sorry if it came across this way... my bad. Thought I made it clear that I was impressed with the results of his efforts! Can't help the laws of silicon physics... die temp hits 160C to 165C and it dies... I didn't write the law, physics did!
You also mentioned the sizzling finger test, this is very valid, if you can keep your finger on a TO-220 heat sink for five seconds and not get burned, you are probably okay. Not scientific but gets one in the ball park!
Once again, Ken did a great job and no one should try to take that away from him!
jorrell
ps. the only IM lingo I understand is ROTFLOL... thanks to Wierd Al!
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kyle 240
on
Tue Mar 13 06:23 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Most apologetic for the undefined abbreviations and acronyms. No, I'm sure neither you nor I intended to detract from Ken's accomplishment, but techies, especially engineers tend to freely offer warnings to their peers before something is brought to the parade (or marketed, in corporate-speak).
FUD: Fear Uncertainty & Doubt - typically introduced in sales training and pronounced as you would Elmer Fudd and used with 'factor'.
NJ: New Jersey
MLAI: Molex Light Assembly Interchange - contrived monicker for ingenious method Ken devised for quickly reverting to incandescent lighting (sorry this was intended as humor)
BSME: Batchelor of Science Mechanical Engineering - maybe stretching here but I thought, from your remarks, you'd know this one:)
Anyhow, to try to resurrect this post from the category of personal communication- I like to see where the technical discussion can lead, esp. WRT (With Regard To) efficient power delivery to LED (Light Emitting Diode) arrays, as this can only be a rapidly rising technology that will quickly dominate our future in cars, home, and industry. Your immediate reaction to the linear regulation technique shows your own interest in this tech trend. Tell you what's on my mind: I'd love to see a photo of the backside of one of those boards before the encapsulant was applied. It is hard for me to imagine the hand wiring/soldering of 16 of those perf (perforated FR-1solder pad array) boards!
-K (hope springs eternal)
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re: "...Tell you what's on my mind: I'd love to see a photo of the backside of one of those boards before the encapsulant was applied. It is hard for me to imagine the hand wiring/soldering of 16 of those perf (perforated FR-1solder pad array) boards!..."
I took a few pictures while I was working up the project -- too bad Rolling didn't have enough space to print them all, but it's understandable. Anyway, here's a picture of what I think you wanted to see. It's the backside (soldering side) of the front turn signal board during my soldering, and before I sealed it (Liquid Tape* but precleaned with circuit board cleaner spray and "BoShield T9") to protect the board's connections -- I just don't remember if this picture was taken before or after the cleaning step:
Hope this photo helped. Unfortunately, resolution isn't very high because of the BrickBoard's limitations (60K maximum) on posting pictures on its gallery. But I hope it's useful.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kyle 240
on
Wed Mar 14 01:11 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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That looks well planned and a whole lot more organized than I imagined. Still a lot of work, but it looks easy to test and inspect because of your decision to trim the LED lenses to fit the .100 grid. I could see what I wanted to just fine with that photo, but now, by your comment you've accomplished one more big plus for our community. Hope we don't begin abusing the new 120K image constraint!!
-K (hope springs eternal)
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You inspired me to double it. Thank you for sharing this.
-JSBB
--
The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell
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Kyle/Ken:
Finally read got the magazine and read the article. Based on the info in the article (and it was obvious the editors had a lot of fun cutting valuable guts for space)... none the less, an excellent article! From the tech points I found, here is what I came up with:
QTY 22 LED strings with 4 LEDs and a 60 Ohm current resistor per string, assuming 20mA per string.
Based calculations on 7810 regulator datasheet 10V output and maximum car battery voltage of 13.6V.
The regulator (in a TO-220 package), can dissipate 1.62W at an ambient temp of 45C. The 1.62W is based on 90 LEDs for the brake/rear fog lights. NOTE: This is without a heatsink! If you used a heatsink that is rated to at least to a THETA hs of 20C/W, you should be good to 85C ambient temperature (roughly).
Based on the above, Ken's design is at least close to perfect... just don't know the heatsink ratings to validate it.
Once again Ken, great job!
jorrell
ps. The only FLA I recognized was BSME but it seemed out of context... after all, I'm a BSEE... did you know you can't spell "geek" without "ee"? Sorry, bad ee humor, kind of like MLAI... cute!
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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re: "...I wonder what NJ annual safety inspection's going to do to this gorgeous experiment...."
I'll let you know -- I'm due this May! But the way they look at things, I doubt they'll even notice, really. The full intensity isn't really noticeable unless you stand way back behind the car, whereas the examinders stand right next to and above, so they'll only notice that the brakes light up -- even their tell-tale mirror (for single-handed inspections) is off to the side, out of the direct view -- so they'll only see the refracted light off the taillights' myriad little facets.
As for the fronts, really the same thing, although I've learned to just take the precaution of disconnecting the power module for the DRLs -- that always requires explaining (even in my other cars with incandescent DRLs) despite the fact that half the car coming through already have DRLs as standard equipment. Talk about stupid, these examiners probably couldn't get a job as a regular mechanic. About ten years ago on my non-ABS car (an '84), the guy said (although he passed me) that my "rear brakes should be looked at because they weren't as strong as the fronts" -- for sure he has never been instructed on the principle of proportioning valves and TUV standards at the time. And of course, back in the 1960's when I first started using radial tires, they were always telling me that my tires were "underinflated" despite showing them with a pressure gauge that they weren't.
Happily, new rules (starting this month, in fact) preclude failing for a variety of reasons (e.g., burned out bulbs, moisture in headlights, bad wipers) -- they're mainly just an emission testing facility now.
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Shrug your shoulders and say, I bought it that way. It was an option.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kyle 240
on
Mon Mar 12 06:10 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Just got my Rolling. Got a kick out of the too much free time humility. Yours is the best article in the issue.
-K (hope springs eternal)
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...just...wow. That's crazy, Ken. Amazing....but crazy. Big thumbs up, buddy!
--
Sean Corron
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VERY NICE!
Can you say the cost of the project?
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I was wondering the same thing. The basic LED's are cheap
But when I started looking at this, The high intesity ones are about 75 cent to a $1 a piece.
Just for the Back lighting, as I planned it, It would have been $90 just for the LED's.
14 LED's per lens
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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