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My AMP light has always come on dimly when the electrical load increases: Blower, lights, turn signal, et al.
Now however, it is bright at idle and doesn`t go out until RPM increases. I`m still running OE generator and want to do alternator conversion at some point. I`m looking at Haynes trying to understand diagnostics.
From experience does this suggest generator, brushes, or voltage regulator? Battery is well charged.
Regards to all.
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posted by
someone claiming to be RoachCoach
on
Tue Mar 6 01:47 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Cornbread,
It may be worn brushes, depending on the age of the generator.
I recommend that you contact Ron Kwas http://sw-em.com/swemkits
He makes a bracket (for not a lot of $) that will accept an Delco-Remy alternator ($100 or so). Running an alternator instead of a generator should take care of the dreaded red glow. Instructions are very straight-forward and complete.
Check out the other stuff on his web site, particularly the electric brake light switch upgrade.
Good luck - phil r.
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Phil;
I certainly appreciate all the recommendations...from you and ALL posters, but I do need to point out one important thing: The initial posting was regarding the AMP indicator, and I did try to answer that...renewing the brushes will likely fix Cornbread's symptoms...but some of the posters made the leap and recommended the alt upgrade to get rid of the AMP light...while I also appreciate this I recommend against it ?!?!?! Why, because, the upgrade will "fix" the dimly lit AMP Indicator, it will extinguish the indicator for the WRONG REASON! That being because once upgraded, the AMP Indicator is no longer used in the sensitive manner it was in the OE generator (as explained here: http://www.sw-em.com/AMP_Indicator_ON.htm ).
Bottom line is that if the AMP Indicator is on any more than just dimly (which is absolutely normal and NOT necesarily the sign of a problem) in the OE generator setup, or has increased from "what it used to be" this indicates corrosion and SHOULD BE REMEDIED FIRST, if you're converting over OR NOT!. As a matter of fact, if an alternator conversion is undertaken at that point without doing the fuseblock, you are taking a chance! That is why I always recommend installing a reworked FB when upgrading to and alt, to safely handle the increased currents available.
Guys: The FB is the heart of the electrical system, NOT THE PLACE TO SCRIMP! Before Cornbread upgrades, he should rework the FB.
Maybe someone who has installed the SwEm reworked FB ONLY will chime in here with the result.
My final comment is that I don't like it when someone sells me something I don't need, and I wouldn't want that to happen with recommendations here either!
Cheers
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Ron is quite correct about the fusebox. I upped to an alternator due to low voltage from my system and very dim lights. I was fortunate enough to have engines that could accept the simple bolt-on solution, but in the end, I never really got good voltage from the setup until I rehabilitated my primary fusebox and used dialectric grease on all my (now tight) connectors.
While he certainly offers a high-quality fusebox upgrade, you can fix it yourself if you want to soder metal or pick up some pure copper rivets and clean everything very thoroughly.
I'll probably get a block from ron at some point, but my system works okay for the moment. I do still see a dim glow from my AMP light with my blower motor in use.
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RJ;
If you give me the credit for knowing about the FB, please consider that I also state that dielectric grease (nonconductive) is NOT the right thing to use on electrical connections...why would you want to use an insulator where you want an electrical connection? Use (conductive) Zinc anti-corrosive paste!
See: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm
Cheers
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Oops typo/brain failure, You are correct, Sorry.
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Had the same thing happen to me. I put in new brushes (the old ones did not look too bad) but the problem persisted (and was intermittent which was frustrating).
I considered the swapping the generator with an alternator, but decided that I wanted to keep things stock. Since I had the genny out I got it completely rebuilt at a reputable auto electric place (about $100). Although my car has only 87,000 mi the generator needed quite a few fixes but it works like a charm and the amp light never glows even with the all lights and fan on (I don't have a stereo, only the original radio).
I know many swap out the genny for the alternator, but things work fine and look stock with a good generator.
waggin
1965 220 wagon
1985 245 turbo wagon
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I have a new (6 months ago) alternator with built in regulator. My amp also comes on sometimes at idle, and then disappears when I increase revs. But I just thought that my warm idle needs increasing slightly. Could this be true, or are their brushes on my new unit which might have failed?
Thanks
Tom
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Ron K has step by step diagnostics for AMP light issues:
Swem Service Page
Scroll down to the Electrical section for AMP light service procedures. Most likely the brushes just need replacing.
After living with OEM gennies on a daily basis for the past five years I recently converted to an alternator. I've had very good results so far with a Swem bracket and Delco 12si alternator.
Joe M in WV
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CB;
I aggree totally with Joe...your symptons are those of worn brushes (causing low pressure onto commutator ring, which only gets cut through the semi-conductive film once you increase revs).
I'd start by removing brush inspection band, inspecting height of brushes, abrading commutator clean with an emery board...that will buy you some time and miles, while the replacement brushes you order come in...
(Thanks once again for recommendations, Joe)
Good Hunting!
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Thanks guys. I need some other of Ron`s upgrades anyway. Is the Delco 12si alternator a good choice? Availability etc?
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The Delco 12si alternator was a special order at NAPA. I bought one with a lifetime guarantee. The guarantee already came in handy as the first unit installed would not charge at high rpm. The replacement unit is working fine so far.
The Delco 10si will also work but the 12si is supposed to have superior cooling fins. Some info here: Delco Alernator Comparisons The 12si model is pictured with the connections at the 12 o'clock position best suited for 122 installation.
HTH,
Joe M in WV
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I upgraded to a 55amp bosch-type unit from a later model volvo to good results.
If you have a 67 or later model B18/B20, you have an alternator "ear" mounting point cast into the block and won't need Ron's fine kit - only the alternator itself.
Also, you might have some issues with brushes. My old volvo mechanic had to make me a new pair because they were no longer available for my '72 145. Maybe not an issue, but I just wanted to give you a head's up in case it is. We Brickboarders usually hoard parts and I know that I have a few generator brushes laying around if you come up empty.
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Thanks for all the informative commentary. Also thanks to RepairmanJack for the brush offer! I had gotten a set from VPI Autoparts some time ago, and they fit right in. I was suprised to see how worn the original set was. One of my manuals suggested replacement if below the top of the holder, but they were way past that.
Anyway, I cleaned up the commutator and the contacts on the FB. Not the complete overhaul, just a touch-up. The AMP light goes out immediately now and lights are brighter and signal flasher is quicker.
My generator would probably benefit from a complete overhaul, but for now the immediate crisis has been handled.
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CB;
Congratulation on your success...this sounds pretty much like a "textbook case".
If your system voltage has come up after cleaning up the FB...it needed it!
As far as a complete overhaul of the generator...that won't buy much in the way of output, but blasting away all the carbon dust from the worn brushes is certainly a very good idea...after a while the conductive dust would connect things that don't want to be connected!
Cheers
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