|
|
|
I read in this forum regarding the procedure of using a turbo gauge for non-turbo bricks as a coolant reservoir monitor gauge using a T-fittings and hogh pressure hose. This looks very useful especially here in tropical climate like the Philippines, my concern is will the gauge stand the pressure and not leak or break once a leak or a cooling problem occurs?
|
|
-
|
|
|
As Art and others indicate, a low liquid level warning is the best way to go, but like Art, I have had the "turbo pressure" method on the 940 for a couple of years or so and no problems. I have a salvaged turbo tachometer on my 940 and it has a small turbo boost gauge in its lower area.
In the same manner as Art's photos, I tied it into the reservoir upper hose. It starts to indicate pressure within a minute or so of startup, and even when the engine is hot enough to turn the fan on to high speed, never gets above approx. halfway on the positive side of the gauge. As long as it is showing some pressure, it means there is no major leak in the system. Of course, you still need to check the level in the reservoir from time to time.
I do not see how liquid would run "uphill" into the gauge, as it's connected into the airspace above the liquid in the reservoir.
I had an accurate pressure gauge on the cooling system of one of the 240's a few years ago - it never showed more than 7psi.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks Bob for the inputs. The water temp went up a bit and when I checked the ATF dipstick, its already chocolate brown in color. I know this is serious and has something to do with the tranny cooler and transmission. What should be done?
|
|
-
|
|
"...when I checked the ATF dipstick, its already chocolate brown in color."
The radiator (with leaking tranny cooler) should be replaced, and the tranny must be flushed as soon as possible. It's been said that the coolant contamination can cause terminal damage to the transmission, but I have no personal experience to verify this.
If true, it may already be too late to save the transmission, depending on how long the cooler has been leaking. With every shut-down, the residual coolant pressure in the radiator will force coolant into the tranny cooler, and on into the tranny the next time the engine starts.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks for the advise! I surely hope that a complete flushing of the auto tranny will be enough to salvage the transmission!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Check if the coolant reservoir has any oily scum inside. If so, it's very strong evidence that the trans cooler in the rad tank is allowing ATF into the coolant - and probably vice versa. At that point, I'd go looking for a new rad., and then do the trans flush.
If the coolant reservoir has no oily appearance, I would flush the tranny at once, using the method that achieves a complete replacement of fluid. See the 700/900FAQ's here for details of procedure. Then watch its fluid carefully for signs of any further coolant contamination.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
|
|
-
|
|
|
I am a firm believer in low coolant sensors/lights.
They will tell you when the coolant is a bit low because the lower level allows the float to move up and down in the splashing causing the light to flash on and off.
They will also tell you when there has been a sudden loss of coolant and you need to immediately investigate the cause before overheating and blowing a head gasket. This is indicated by the light remaining constant.
They are relatively easy to install; a recent tutorial by oleseahorse can be seen at http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1144791
Randy
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Randy for the helpful tip.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I can't say whether it will work or not -- although I would question whether the gauge is able to withstand the 'steamy' nature of the gas you're measuring.
As for the pressure, compare the pressure rating of the cap (usually, the black cap for a 240) to the scale of the boost gauge -- I would think that they're compatible, at least in this particular respect.
But, more important, what you trying to determine?
The pressure in your cooling system? That's a function of the integrity of the cooling system, its temperature, and the concentration of antifreeze (which also affects the vapor pressure). But I doubt that pressure alone would be different whether the cooling system was full or not -- the coolant would still generate the same pressure, so what do you think the gauge would be indicating to you? How would you interpret the information, other than that the cooling system is hot?
An accurate temperature gauge (i.e., without the compensation board found in U.S.-market cars) and perhaps a home-built coolant level indicator* in the overflow recovery tank would be far more useful -- knowing the temperature and level of coolant is all you need to know (besides the concentration of antifreeze) for information that's meaningful.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
* A few weeks ago, a brickboard member posted details of his coolant level indicator that he home-built into his coolant reservoir tank. Use the archives to take a look at it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Regards,
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you for the technical advise, though there are pros and cons, i read both on this website/forum the use of turbo gauge as monitor for the coolant reservoir and the home-brewn coolant level indicator using a pilot lamp.
|
|
|
|
|
