Greetings,

My '89 765T (B230FT) with a Garrett water cooled turbo siezed. I have never replaced one and wanted to get some feedback from y'all on the level of difficulty of this job. I do timing belts, tailshaft bushings, shocks, struts, springs and poly bushings in addition to the usual maintenance items.

I'm looking at a rebuilt unit from FCP for about $550 - $595, will probably fabricate my own oil return from a "flex" type of hose, that can handle the temp. i'll JB Weld a brass fitting at the block in order to avoid the existing O ring leaking and clamp or find a threaded fitting for the hose.

From what I have read so far, it seems like a "unbolt and replace" type of procedure, although I'm sure it can get tough with possible broken exhaust studs. Is there any type of adjusting to do once the new turbo is bolted up? I'll check with FCP to verify the boost level is set during the rebuild process.

So ,what's the verdict? Difficuly from 1-10. I appreciate the feedback....

Stormie - '89 765T (264,000 miles) + '88 240DL (517,000 miles)

That's just silly! You've come up with two ways to add new problems and plenty of extra effort to cure a non-problem. Welding anything to the pan or block means all debris is going to flake off into the oil pan. Using a flexible pipe when both ends are stationary...why? The original type thick seal on the hard pipe - approx cost $3 - will keep the block DRY if the hole is clean and it lasts for years.

The big issue with the new turbo is proper cleaning of the old feed pipe or its replacement with brand new. I have used overnight soaking in a commercial carburetor solvent, followed by flushing in both directions, to ensure that no deposits remain that can restrict or break off and enter the turbo bearing.

Second important step is after bolting turbo into place, before first start. Pull spark plugs for faster spin. I also pull one LT wire from coil to prevent spark. Crank engine 20 seconds to build oil pressure. Let starter cool 60 seconds. Repeat twice. This ensures filling of the feed pipe and wets the bearing prior to first start. Install plugs, reconnect coil. Check for leaks and recheck coolant level. Done.

Some suppliers insist on a new oil return line when you replace the turbo-- otherwise they won't warranty it. Often you can get the turbo rebuilt for cheaper than replacing it.

Good luck!

It is the oil FEED line they want replaced. Old ones may have coking that can flake off and block the inlet port.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineTurbo.htm

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineTurboRebuilding.htm

Lots of rebuilt turbos for less. Do a google search..
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Why are you going to re-engineer the oil return system on it? I do see them leak from time to time but they are really not that problematic. Installed properly with factory parts they usually go 100K effortlessly. It is hard to fault a design that will give you an easy 100K or 8-10 years of drive time.

Aside from that your conclusions about it being a fairly simple bolt up until you break a stud are pretty much on the money.

Good luck
Mark