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88 240 rotor button removal 200 1988

Hello to all!!

I sure hope you can help me. I also am a Volvo lover. My question is regarding an 88 240GL wagon
with 215k miles. My problem is that I can't get the ignition rotor off.
I assume that it should pull straight off but I have pulled and tugged hard and even used a pair
of channel locks but it won't budge. So any insight that you all might have would be greatly appreciated.
I am trying to fix this car up for my 16 year old son to drive.
He LOVES the ole wagon.

Thanks! Kevin








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    88 240 rotor button removal 200 1988

    Whenever you try to losten somthing, use impact. By this I mean rather than a continuous flow of brutal strength, clamp on it and "tap" it. So try taking a regular set of plyers on it's collar, hold the plyer horizonal and hit the plyers from underneath (upwards) with a mallot or hammer. It'll come off.

    Greg Mustang
    Montreal Canada
    www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com








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    88 240 rotor button removal 200 1988

    You're on the right track. Pull harder! You'll either get it to come free or you'll shatter it. Both ways are pretty good. They get stuck on there like no other car I've seen.

    I now use a little dab of grease or never-seize under the new rotors when I replace them. Avoid getting on the electrical surfaces of course.

    Good luck with it!
    --
    Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Today I'm driving: 1990 745GL, M47, 273K, Hydras, Urethane bushings, Teal & Tan ::: My wife's got my 92 down in VA Beach!








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      88 240 rotor button removal 200 1988

      Hi Rob! Thanks for the advice, I first used a large flat blade screwdriver with a hammer to pry up on it with. After breaking both ends of the rotor button it was time to call on the ole trusty ViseGrips which I clamped onto the stub with and split it in two. Even after this a stubborn piece of plastic was still stuck in the groove of the distributor shaft! I took a small flat blade and tapped it out. I then clean the rust and crud off the shaft with a piece of sandpaper while using my ShopVac to suck out the debris. I then put the slightest dab of grease on the shaft to aid installation/removal. Well as with most of my projects I don't think it completely solved the problem as it still is running rough, especially at idle and low RPM. along with the rotor I have replaced the plugs and dist cap. I cleaned and dressed the wires and checked under the hood in the dark with the motor running and didn't see ant arching so I think they are OK. This problem is really bugging me because this car even with 200+k miles always idled so smoothly that you could not feel the car running!

      Thanks again, Kevin








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    88 240 rotor button removal 200 1988


    I've had that trouble with rotors from the Volvo dealership. I now get my Bosch rotors from indy suppliers, no more problems. Go figure.

    Avoid broken plastic down into the distributor, and avoid whacking hard with a hammer, again to avoid damage to the distributor. I think there's a Hall sensor in there, along with whatever else.

    When I had a stuck dizzy rotor, I pried up with a big flat blade screwdriver until the plastic cylinder split apart. I was ready for it to slide up, but it split first. It's hard to get something for the lever to bear against, but I suppose if you insist on a decent fulcrum, you could plant a piece of 2x4 someplace.

    You could also use a drill at the top and insert WD-40 or PB Blaster, but anything inserted will end up in the dizzy. So I didn't do that.

    Somebody wrote to put a heavy block on one side and hit with hammer from the other side. I don't feel good about that. Guaranteed, there'd be a pretty good impact to the dizzy.
    --
    Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.








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      88 240 rotor button removal 200 1988

      Thanks for your help! I've never used a message board so I don't really know how it all works so I am sending you the same message that I sent another guy who had also given me advice.

      I first used a large flat blade screwdriver with a hammer to pry up on it with. After breaking both ends of the rotor button it was time to call on the ole trusty ViseGrips which I clamped onto the stub with and split it in two. Even after this a stubborn piece of plastic was still stuck in the groove of the distributor shaft! I took a small flat blade and tapped it out. I then clean the rust and crud off the shaft with a piece of sandpaper while using my ShopVac to suck out the debris. I then put the slightest dab of grease on the shaft to aid installation/removal. Well as with most of my projects I don't think it completely solved the problem as it still is running rough, especially at idle and low RPM. along with the rotor I have replaced the plugs and dist cap. I cleaned and dressed the wires and checked under the hood in the dark with the motor running and didn't see ant arching so I think they are OK. This problem is really bugging me because this car even with 200+k miles always idled so smoothly that you could not feel the car running!

      Thanks again, Kevin







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