My mind has been running amuck on making some custom Setup for the less-then-perfect Tailight flex circuit.

I was thinking of making an LED Circuit board but then it occured to me that if the Flasher for the directionals is the old Bi-metal type then the LED's wont heat up the Flasher to work.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

You would have to convert to an electronic flasher or add some fairly high wattage load resistors across the LED strings. You may also run into issues with the bulb-out detection circuit.

jorrell
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89 244 171K miles, 92 245 241K miles, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup

That's why I was asking. If the Volvo has a bi metal Flasher then Yes, I would have to load the line to get the Flasher to heat up .

I didn't think the Bulb Failure Relay would be a problem IF the drain was equil on both sides of the car.

I gotta think about this.

Thanks

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

re: "...I didn't think the Bulb Failure Relay would be a problem IF the drain was equil on both sides of the car...."

The warning module not only compares the two sides of the brake light bulbs in the taillight housing, but also compares them to the 'third' brake light in the rear window. You will get a warning light on your dash if they aren't all equal.

Sorry.

Crap... you are right. I knew that but my mind wasn't thinking about it as I stare at the Spare Rear Light assemblies.

Thanks Ken

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

re: "...My mind has been running amuck on making some custom Setup for the less-then-perfect Tailight flex circuit.
I was thinking of making an LED Circuit board but then it occured to me that if the Flasher for the directionals is the old Bi-metal type then the LED's wont heat up the Flasher to work...."


Oops, I guess my comment on balancing the brake lights was not necessary.

I thought, from your initial inquiry ("LED circuit board"), that you were thinking of replacing your whole flex circuit (i.e., all the lights in the taillights) with LEDs, which would include the brake lights -- thus my comment.

But apparently, from the discussion, you're only thinking of replacing the turn signals. So my response was unnecessary.

Sorry, and good luck with your project.

Doesn't cover turn signals.

Only covers headlight low beams, brakes and rear tail lights.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't monitor the front "parking" or running lights. If I remember I'll check at lunch; my front lenses are off right now to let some paint dry so it will be an easy check.

Paint? Yup; the chrome reflective coating was shot and besides, I wanted amber coloring there. So I painted the reflector. A base coat of white, and a coat of self-mixed amber over that. Acrylic craft paint, about $1 per bottle. Looks good!
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.

BFWR only covers headlight low beams, brakes and rear tail lights.

Confirmed: it does not monitor the front "parking" or running lights.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.

Thanks Bruce. I knew the Directionals were not in the BFS wiring.

I have two issues.

1. Will all the other lights (if they were LED's) cause a problem with the BFS?
I don't see why it would.

2. Will the LED's trigger the Flasher so the directionals work?
I don't remember ever seeing the typical Bi Metal directional in the Volvo so I thought if it was controlled some other way, the LED's would be a Drop in.

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

"1. Will all the other lights (if they were LED's) cause a problem with the BFS?
I don't see why it would."

I really think there'd be no problem. BFWR tests load of one side of car vs. the other side. Per each circuit, not per everything that's lit, as you're probably aware. So if you have two equal-draw devices, one on each side of the circuit, the BFWR should be happy.


"2. Will the LED's trigger the Flasher so the directionals work?
I don't remember ever seeing the typical Bi Metal directional in the Volvo so I thought if it was controlled some other way, the LED's would be a Drop in."

I don't know. I never opened up a 240 flasher relay - but I suppose if you do, you'll either find a recognizable bimetallic strip or some circuitry based on capacitors.

Also: Flasher relay apparently is sensitive to load. As in, if you remove the front turn signal bulb, it flashes very fast with only the rear bulb working. So I do suspect that if you insert low-load LED bulbs, the flasher won't work normally. Only a theory; you'd have to test to know for certain.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.

A simple test is to turn on your left turn signal and then unhook the left TS bulb in the trunk (right side might be easier, no spare). Once you unplug the bulb, if the front TS light starts flashing much faster, then you have a bi-metal flasher.

jorrell

ps. sorry about confusing the turn signals into the bulb out circuit... brain fart !
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89 244 171K miles, 92 245 241K miles, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup