A dear friend who runs an animal sanctury has been given a Volvo to auction and gain the funds. I went to see what it might bring, but I don't know enough about turbo models.

I looked at it today. I was disappointed that it would not start. Good cranking, engine would catch but - move key back and engine dies. She assured me that last week they had it running just fine. Has fuel, about 1/4 tank.

What I did find that needs doing or fixing, or is good:

All fluids. P/S fluid is black. Motor oil very dirty, inside of oil filler cap is black. Brake fluid suspect, coolant is clear (no oil).

Radiator is new, unknown brand. Plastic end caps. the old one is in the trunk, looks leaky. Metal end caps.

Four good but dirty Virgo wheels. No curb rash.

Good tires. Funny spare, another wheel-less loose tire in trunk.

Trim is blue fabric. Loose here and there, but no rips. Likely weak foam pads.

Silver paintwork is fading. No surface rust, not much clear coat either.

All warning lights came on, turgo gauges operated.

Turbo exhaust system. Not volvo.

Power windows, power mirrors. E-brake console cover 99% missing. Remaining parts are the area where, on my 1988, the seat heater switches are found. On this car it's where the power mirror switches are mounted.

Front seal arm rest in matching blue fabric.

All fuses correct amperage and good.

Power trunk release. non-op.

Power antenna, non-op but stays up.

No gravel guard.

Found a large oil cooler to left of radiator - looked stock.

No intercooler.

No rust that my cursory exam found.

But - I could not figure out why the engine would not catch and stay. Fuel pumps could be heard. Cranked over and seemed to catch, so I think it has spark OK. If it was a LH car, I would have suspected a bad AMM, but there isn't one that I could find.

Any ideas of how to get it to run? Seems as if the circuit that keeps the fuel pumps running after the starting sequence is no good. It is a CIS system, no 25-amp fuse. Are there relays somewhere?

Anything you can tell me will be greatly appreciated.

Bob

:>)

If the engine fires but cuts off when the key is released, check the intake hose for leaks between the AMM and the intake; especially since it was running recently.

Regards,
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles.

If it has a ballast resistor, check the wiring to it. With a wiring problem at the ballast resistor, the engine will start but shut off when the starting circuit is disengaged.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

Ballast resistor? An excellent point, and one that I should have thought of.

The wiring runs from the "inner" terminal on the starter to the ballast resistor which, on a N/A B21 is near the coil, on the right side of the firewall. Right? Where is it on a turbo?

Also, I saw nothing that looked like an AMM. Does it have one?

Thanks a tonne.

Bob

:>)

Exactly!

I just picked up an 82 242Ti that had been sitting for 6 months with a fried harness...

1 wire from the battery to the coil got me home and I'll have a new harness installed later this week.

How are the cap and rotor?

the fuel pump relay is green and above the drivers left knee, but it sounds as if it's working. If you still have a questions about fuel delivery, you can jump fuses 5+7 to get the pumps to run continuously.

Condition of the wiring harness? I have to install another harness on an 82 this week... the wires to the ballast resistor are shot. This provides 12 V to the coil on 240T's.

Last, make sure you get some more gas in it, as a bad connecting hose in the tank could cause some problems.

HTH-