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Continuation of last post from last week. My new fuel pump relay came in the mail today. Pulgged it in and it buzzed and clicked just lkike the old one. I guess that crosses bad relay off the list. What next? Should I but another Jetronic box?
For those who were not following thee story, here it is the Evelyn Wood version:
Let battery go dead, wouldn't take a charge on the battery charger, used battery charger jump start mode switch, everything went weird, door chime sounded wavey, speedo needle bounced up and down, buzzing sounds from behind the dash, but car started up and ran. Pulled off charger cables, shut car off, never would start again.
Replaced all of the fuses including the one in the engine compartment even though none were blown. Cleaned up all electrical contacts. Bought new battery.
Tried to start. Turns over, verified that it's getting spark, but no fuel. Fuel pump relay buzzes & crackles. Bought another relay - same thing. Should I replace the computer next?
** Startling discovery **
Pulled out entire fuse panel to better inspect it for corrosion and possible replacement and found this:
Fuse to the main fuel pump has only one wire going to it. There is power going to it when I ground the test light to the body. Why only one wire. There are no unused wires that may have came unplugged either. How could the car even have ran before? Is it possible someone bypassed this years ago?
Need more help,
Ben
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Aye Roll may be onto something with his "reversed relay" theory. Look at the base of the relay where terminal numbers are shown. Make sure that #30 plugs into the socket with the RED wire.
Also—when does the relay buzz? As soon as you plug it in? Or when the Key is turned on? That might be a clue.
As for Fuse #6, forget it. It's not used on U.S. cars (the label is misleading). It has power going TO it (all fuses 6 thru 10 have common power straight from the battery). But nothing is wired FROM it.
The 25 amp fuse near the coil is the MAIN FI System fuse, including the main pump. There is no "Main Pump" fuse alone.
My SWAG Theory:
IF the relay is NOT plugged backwards,
AND it doesn't buzz with the Key OFF,
THEN check the 25 amp fuse, fuse holder, and fuse wiring back to the battery + terminal.(You may have messed up something there with your Charger episode.)
Sometimes, due to high resistance (see THEN above) the 25amp fuse will pass just a trickle of current—barely enough to close the relay. But then the added load thru the relay points is too much—so the relay "drops out"—and right away picks up again. This up/down process repeats very fast and makes a buzzing, vibrating noise.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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I made sure the relay was plugged in the right way. The relay only buzzes when the key is in and turned to the run position.
I will double check the power at the fuse in the engine compartment.
Ben
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2 conditions I've seen a fuel pump relay buzz strangely.
1) plugged it in backwards. You can sort of force the connector on backwards. I've got no idea what ill effects it has as far as making connection to the wrong things in the fuel system. I've done it twice, in the dark, and each time found my error and reversed it without any problems down the road.
2) after an engine job, had loose ground terminations on the intake manifold. That's apparently the system ground for the fuel pump relay, injectors, and control unit. Check these brown or black wires and make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion. 2- 10mm bolts on the intake manifold top.
Good luck with it!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 87 244DL- 249K, B230F/M47, Turbo sways, Bilsteins, GT braces, Virgos, Turbo exhaust, Gislaveds for winter!
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Thanks, it's running now - was a bad connection. When I checked it before, the test light worked. But I noticed that it was dimmer at the connection than at the battery. I cleaned up the contacts again, but this time I used a steel bolt and nut at the cable end. I had an aluminum one there before and it was a poor conductor. Anyway, it runs now.
Ben
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Bad connection at the fuseholder? Or the relay? Or --?
Inquiring minds want to know!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 87 244DL- 249K, B230F/M47, Turbo sways, Bilsteins, GT braces, Virgos, Turbo exhaust, Gislaveds for winter!
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UnlessI am missunderstanding you, here is what I have for the fuse. Fuse 4 has one yellow and red wire from the right side of the fuse going to the tank pump. The left side of the fuse has one yellow and red wire going to the main pump and one yellow and red wire going to the injectors. If I missed what you were asking please forgive me as it is getting real late here and my screen is begining to blurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....:>)..MAxx x x x x x x xx x xx x x x xxxx x x xxxx
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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