Ok I guess I am getting old. For the life of me I can not get the belt timed out right. Does anyine have a pic of the front of a B230 with all the marks lined up? The crankshaft mark is on the front washer and the block mark is, if I am correct, the casting line on the front of the block. I have all the manual drawings and even IPD's pic but I really need a live picture of the engine.. Thanks for all the help.. Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project

The way I set it does include using the timing marks on the new belt.

I do a couple of things that may help. Set the cam to the mark- this is the easy one. The cam likes to snap into place, helped by valve spring tension.

The intermediate shaft is tough to get just right. The mark is indeed almost 90° from vertical, pointing almost straight away from the water pump. I use a small mirror (welding inspection mirror) to get a view of it straight-on. Helps a LOT.

The crank is sometimes tricky. I reinstall the lower cover temporarily, and the harmonic balancer/pulley. Line the crank up to the big vertical line marked "0" on the cover, then remove the cover and pulley.

I also push the tensioner back as far as possible, and tighten it down with the nut. This releases it a little more than just retaining it with a pin or small screwdriver. Gives you the maximum belt slack.

Line up one single belt mark on that intermediate shaft pulley, then the cam up top at the other single mark. The crank SHOULDN'T move while you're sliding it over the bottom sprocket. DOn't slide it onto any sprocket all the way. Start to slip it over the tensioner. Then work your way around to slide the belt fully onto all 3 sprockets and the tensioner. Try to keep as much tension as you practically can on the section of belt between cam and intermediate shaft, to give yourself the most slack on the bottom side of the cam sprocket. Finally when it's all in, release the tensioner. I give it a little push in the "tight" direction before securing the nut.

Now check everything. Use the mirror again to make certain the intermediate shaft didn't move. The cam is easy to see whether it's right or not. REinstall the outer belt washer, the lower cover, and the harmonic balancer. Make sure it all comes out right on! Most often, when I haven't gotten it right, I've found I got the crank off by a tooth. Take your time and double check!

Good luck with it!

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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!

Here is a pic that may help. I believe the crank 0° reference is the raised ridge on the aluminum seal carrier plate.

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

The problem with this pic(it has been brought up before), the actually timing marks are at approx 11 oclock, not the 1oclock as it appears on the camshaft. Look for a raised mark on the rear plastic timing belt cover.

I think maybe the picture doesn't show the engine's normal "tilt" angle. If it was rotated CCW (so the cam mark is at 12 o'clock), then the crank mark would be at about 11 o'clock, as you say.

That's how the Volvo green book for B200, B230 has it, and where that picture came from (fig 141 194).

Guess I was thinking of B21/23 for the 0° reference line on the aluminum seal carrier.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Maybe I wasn't clear. The mark for the cam is at 11oclock. You are correct with the crank mark on the washer/sealer.

The robust raised vertical line on the rear plate of the belt cover that sits up against the block. Line that with the washer notch. Ignore the white lines on the belt.