In the process of my B20 into 444 project I have come up against a little problem. My plan was to move the ignition switch/armored cable/coil from the 544 donor car to the 444. But I can't get those parts to come out of the 544 and can't find instructions on how to do it in the service manual.

In checking the Brickboard archives I saw something about turning the key and pressing a button to remove the lock cylinder. I see the button to push but the key is broken off in the lock and is not turning, despite some serious encouragement on my part. Plus I do not know if removing the lock cylinder would let me take out the whole assembly. The chrome bezel around the switch will rotate but does not unscrew. I can pry the switch out 3/16" or so for what that's worth. If I had not found the thrown rod/cracked block in the 544 earlier, I would be thinking this is why the car was junked back in 1987.

Is there a trick to get it out? An aftermarket switch and Bosch blue coil are looking better and better as this afternoon has gone along.

Keith
444 Project, Moline, IL

Keith;

I don't know what you mean by "serious encouragement", but I hope you didn't beat the hell out of it, which would do needless and unnecessary damage to the rest of the IGN sw assy. Generally, locks are intended to withstand such insults!

You need to turn the lock cylinder (LC) to the IGN ON position...I suggest working the key back and forth in the cylinder as you apply rotational force with a small screwdriver...patience helps...once it turns ONE CLICK, into the IGN ON position, (and only then, are you able to) push the release button and withdraw the LC. The bezel will come along with the LC. You will then also be able to remove the key fragment and get a new key cut with the pattern it still has.

More info here: http://sw-em.com/service%20notes.htm#Body

Cheers

Ron,

Maybe "serious encouragement" was a bit strong. I have never struck that lock! I tried to turn it with a screwdriver, but not with the deft touch I now know I should have been trying.

Tomorrow, with a plan I believe in, I will get out my lock lubricant, small screwdrivers and tweezers and will finesse that key stub one gentle click to the right. Then I will gently press the little button and carefully extract my lock and cylinder. Once again, common sense and knowledge will triumph over violence.

Gosh, but I hope so!

Keith
444 Project, Moline, IL

Keith;

Remember the position of key stub will still determine if and when (and allow you to at all) turn the LC...if it's not in the proper fore /aft position, no joy...but once it is, it shouldn't take massive force to turn the LC...

Cheers

Sorry I'm not closer to you. I have all my lock tools in my toolbox :-P

To get the key out of the lock, take a pin (a big one if you can find one) and heat the tip at the stove. You want to remove the temper from the steel so you can use pliers to make a TINY L-shaped hook on the pointy end.

Once you've made your bend, heat the pin up again and douse it in water to re-set the temper. This should make it strong enough so it won't bend when you're using it.

Once the lock is out, take it and the key stub to a place where you can get a key made. Having the lock available to test the new key(s) will speed things up a lot. Also, if the cylinder is completely out of the lock, the keymaker can actually see if all the pins are lining up with the new key.

If nothing seems to work, don't force, it, just call a locksmith. He'll be able to turn the lock and remove the broken key, as well as make you a new set of keys.

Something to think about: the broken key may not be the correct one for your ignition. If not, no amount of fiddling is going to get it to turn.

Good luck!

Steve

Thanks for the help Ron and Steve. I am simply not able to get that key out or turn it. I could cut the switch out of the panel and take it to a locksmith but I just don't think it is worth the trouble.

I now plan to use a "universal" ignition switch, push button starter switch, Bosch Blue Coil and fabricate a cover plate for firewall. I liked the armored Volvo cable but this alternative will serve my purposes very well.

I've been keeping all of the 444 parts (including the original switch and coil) so the car can be returned to original if a future owner wishes.

Keith
444 Project Moline, IL

The original cable coil/switch setup is nice because it's so unusual. Some older American cars (like Chevrolet) used them 50-60 years ago, but I haven't seen one on a 'modern' car. Maybe the ultra-expensive cars use this system as an added security feature.

My original coil was removed long ago, and I have a Mallory coil in it now. The PO made a 'cover' for the hole in the firewall from a chunk of cardboard box, then painted it to match the car. It looks awful!

Naturally, replacing that mess with a clean patch is on my list this winter.
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I've budgeted money for getting my interior reupholstered. Hopefully next week or the week after. Uncle Sam owes me a fat tax refund, and I e-filed, so the cash should magically appear in my account in a few days.

Although the interior was done in pretty nice materials back in 1991 - see my website at http://www.geocities.com/steve_sms/volvo - two sections of the black vinyl on the front seat bottoms have hardened, and the red cloth inserts have looked threadbare since they were new (due to the corduroy-like material chosen.) I'm having the two hard spots replaced and all the red inserts done over with gray tweed. I got a quote of $500, provided I make up new door panels and kick panels. The last upholsterer used cardboard!

Hang in there with your rebuild: I can see you're going to have a great car when you get done!

Steve