Hello;
Any one has any good ideas on how to remove the A/C Recirculation servo without having to remove the complete A/C housing under the dashboard.
Thanks

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1996 964 162,000 Miles

THIS CAN BE FIXED VERY SIMPLE, BUT YOU WILL LOSE RECIRC CONTROL BUT BLEED OFF WILL STOP.

I started to do this but didn't really succeed in doing a short cut.

I got the old bellows out by removing the intake grill and short duct as a start. This allowed me to see the thing and gain access to the nuts and clip on the door shaft. (Also the lower dash panel of course.)

After I got the nuts and the clip off, I cut a slot using aviation snips to give the actuating shaft room to drop down without the room to move the bellows back far enough to clear.

With the thread cutting nuts off and the slot I was able to clear the mounting stud toward the center of the car and the actuating shaft but the outer stud broke when I used too much force.

I tried shortening the mounting studs and pre-threading the studs before reassembly but ended up breaking the outer stud on the new bellows. I jammed some foam in behind it to make it work-- sort of. I have another new bellows to try when the spirit moves me. Next time I plan to alter the slot so it reaches the outer stud hole and try it that way.

Hang onto those thread cutting nuts! I lost one and the parts manager had to call the Volvo parts specialist to get the part number and they cost about $6.00 each!
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'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 128K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.

Did you cut away the black insulation between the carpet and the firewall, I was thinking that should give about .5 inch for the servo to move in the direction of the front of the car. I'll try some of this on the weekend.
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1996 964 158,000 Miles

No I didn't try that. Interesting idea though.

With the old bellows in the way that might be difficult. You might cut the slot for the arm and then just cut off the studs to aid getting the old bellows out. With the old bellows out of the way cutting the liner/insulator might go OK. I think I almost got the new one in when the stud broke. The extra room provided by cutting the insulator might just make it work.

Pre-threading the studs by running the nuts on and off a couple times should be a help also. (Make sure it follows the same threads each time.)

Also, I was using a conventional drop light for light and its heat made the vinyl carpet backing out-gas and made me sick during the process. (Bad head ache and nausea!)

I need to get one of those nice cool florescent lights!
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'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 128K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.

Thanks
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1996 964 158,000 Miles