some fuel pumps on earlier versions had round push on connectors and some of the aftermarket pumps come with those mickey mouse crimp on connectors and short wires to switch it from the older style to the eyelet style terminals.. a lot of the bosche pumps have terminals with nuts..


If you want the round push in style you can probably use one of those 4 prong trailer plug things, you can buy a new male and female end if you like , Just cut them in half or ignore the other two prongs. If you just want one prong you can just take a box cutter and slice the trailer plug along parallel to the tubular shaped connectors.


If I splice wires I never use those crimps. In stead slip a piece of shrink tubing over the wire, do a western union splice, solder it then slide the heat shrink overtop.. like this..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

when you strip wire try not to loose any strands and the replacement should be as heavy as the original wire..

I never trust crimp connectors, If I want to use the ones meant to be crimped I just pull off and throw away the plastic cover thing and put heat shrink on the wire then put the wire in the connector, I'll squeeze it up but solder as well.. then pull the heat shrink back over it rather than the hard plastic thing that comes with the connectors.


some fuel pumps come with the things that you squeeze over the wire and they are a quick sort of connector to join one wire to another. they sort of pinch the wire right through the insulation. I never use those things because I dont trust them. solder and heat shrink won't cause an issue.


If it's working and not failing it's probably ok..

I like to run a couple more wires, in parallel , from that connector back inside the car and put a small low watt bulb there.. I'll hide that little tiny lamp in the engine bay. If I ever have a starting issue I like to see that the fuel pump has power or not. If I have a no start issue and if it's lit then I won't go playing with the relay..

If you wanted you could also pick up the other end of those wires instead after following it through the floor up to the fuel pump relay.

If I want to check the fuel pump I'll undo it at the fuel rail, put it in a jar and crank but not to long, it will fill the jar with gas fast! be careful you dont start a fire..

If you want to see if the fuel pump or the pre pump works you can pull the fuse from the other so it's only the prepump or only the main pump running.

if the pre pump dies, the car may run but may also have issue as the tank gets more than about 1/2 empty. If main pump dies, car won't start. you can usually hear the main pump for a second after turning the key while it primes. you can usually hear the pre pump if you listen with the fuel filler cap removed.

if you remove the prepump sometimes there is a plastic mesh that falls apart in there so you may see bits of it floating in the gas. i would not try to change the pre-pump without the rest of the sender, because it all degrades.

I've met people who have driven for extended periods with a dead pre pump by simply keeping the tank full.

never go into fixing the prepump with a full tank, best that it's empty first. I'd siphon it first if there is gas in the tank. when you get that lid off and your nose in the area its best not to have it full of gas. then you can see the bottom of the tank. the gas and it's fumes are still dangerous of course.