"At this point, I rewired the 9006 low beams by twisting the copper wires together, soldering,
and heat shrinking. This is optional, but HIGHLY recommended. I'd hate to ruin HID bulbs just
because of shitty stock wiring. BTW, don't bother working with it if you can. It is SO thin, and
SO brittle, it's not worth handling. I reused the male quick disconnects, with the new wiring I
purchased from UAP. "
What do you mean by that. You completely disregarded the old wiring? Where do you get
your 12V from? Did you go straight to the battery or resused the old wiring?
When you get to removing the old 9006 wiring, you'll understand what I meant. When you remove the lens, and reflector to get at the 9006 wiring, that goes to two male quick connects, there are three, one for the 9005 high beams (yes I know you don't have the 9000 series bulbs, just referring to mine), one for the 9006 low beam, and I believe a common ground. I pulled the male pins out, cut off the original 9006 wiring, and wired the new UAP 9006 connector to it. Reusing the male connector is difficult, and requires some manipulation, which is what I described. BTW, the connection point with the pins can be removed, and is HIGHLY recommended when working on it.
So after removing the lens and reflector, press in the plastic retainers, and push the connector out from front to back. Then using pliers, push the low beam pins out (by only pushing out the low beams, you won't get the position of the three pins mixed up, and by working on one side at a time, you won't get the orientation of the connector wrong). With the connector out, and the 9006 wiring pulled out, remove the 9006 wiring, twist, solder and heat shrink the new 9006 wiring to the pin, reinstall, and voila, new 9006 wiring. BTW, I cut my new 9006 wiring to the approximate length of the original wiring. The aftermarket wiring is usually VERY long. I believe it was about 50-75% longer then the original. I did this PURELY because of known wiring problems with the _70's, but I doubt it is really a concern.
As for ballast mounting, I mounted the driver side one to the top of the battery using double sided foam tape, being careful to ensure the electrolyte ports are accessible. And I mounted the passenger side ballast to the ECU cooling duct, and the radiator using zip ties, and foam to prevent excessive vibration from possibly damaging the ballast.
I'm a bit late for a lecture right now, so I must end this now. If you have any other questions, just post, and I'll reply later today.
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