The hardest part is finding the timing notch on the crank pulley. The water pump is usually good for 200K miles, if the antifreeze is flushed and replaced with a quality antifreeze. And the water pump is a pain to R&R because of the gasket sticking to the block.

As for the cams moving, and you have VVT on both cams, the suggestion is to rotate the crank an additional 90 degrees past the timing marks and then counter clockwise back to the marks. This is supposed to take the tension off the VVTs.

If you want to make the crank easier to rotate by hand, remove the spark plugs to eliminate any compression at TDC.

The small plate at the bottom of the crank pulley needs to be removed, 10mm?, to get the belt off.

At minimum, you should get Tbelt, Sbelt, tensioner, rollers. While the belt is off, finger rotate the water pump and check it's bearings - it should be smooth to rotate.

Engine bay space is tight! Visibility is poor. After belt replacement, always rotate the engine 720 degrees while checking for valve resistance and timing marks after rotation.

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Keeping it running is better than buying new