After buying the parts and putting off the job for 2 years, I decided the time had come to tackle the clutch replacement on my 99 V70 T5M. Here are some things I learned that may prove helpful to others:
Tools –
You will need these sockets: 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 MM + Torx T40 and T55 (plus some smaller ones used on clamps).
Floor jack (maybe 2), piston jack, and engine hoist.
Time –
This is going to take a long time. Don’t be in a hurry. Standard flat rate is 9 or 10 hours. I spent 12 hours getting it apart and 12 hours getting it back together. Just keep reminding yourself how much 10 hours at $125 - $150 will cost. BUT…this is a hard job. It is not something for a first-timer. I have 45 years of DIY experience and I put the job off for 2 years because I knew it was going to be hard.
Lessons learned -
You will have to remove the subframe completely. Even if you had the Volvo special fixture to hold the transmission, I don’t see how there would be enough working room to get it out with the subframe hanging down like they tell you in the manual.
In order to hold the engine with the subframe out, I cut a piece of 2 X 6 lumber so that it just fit in the channels between the fenders. This requires unbolting the fusebox from the strut mount and unclipping the power steering reservoir & coolant surge tank. I ran the hose for the coolant tank over the board and put the power steering reservoir under the board. I also supported the engine from below with a small piston jack and a piece of wood to spread the load across the oil pan. There were times when I had to use only the board support (like pulling the subframe out from under the car), but I replaced the piston jack as soon as I could. I would not want to leave the engine supported only by the 2 x 6. I used redwood, because that’s what I had, but it is a soft wood, and bowed significantly under the weight of the engine. A harder wood is a better choice.
I have one of those worthless Chinese transmission jack adapters that you use with a floor jack. In the end, the only value it provided was a bigger platform under the transmission than the normal circular plate on the floor jack. Like every other transmission jack I have tried to use, the lowest you can get it is still too high to be of any use.
To reinstall the transmission, I used a combination of an engine hoist and a floor jack to maneuver the transaxle back into place. This worked well, but still took a long time. Volvo suggests putting oil on the guide dowels. I didn’t notice that until after the trans was already in. It probably would have helped ease reassembly.
Steering Rack –
When you separate the steering rack from the subframe, a bracket will fall out. Upon reassembly, this bracket will fit in several positions. But the correct position is all the way to the left (on LHD cars). This bracket is held on by a large nut (18MM socket). There is a big washer that goes underneath. This washer is the one in your “leftover parts” that you can’t figure out where it goes. The rest of the steering rack nuts do not have washers, so it is easy to assume that this nut doesn’t either…But it does.
There are some plastic fuel lines on the right hand side of the car. One of them really wants to sneak under the rack and be crushed when you bolt down the rack. Keep an eye out for that.
Flywheel resurfacing –
If you have a dual mass flywheel, it’s hard to find a shop that can resurface it. Try a speed shop for recommendations. If you are in the San Francisco area, I used Morgan’s Machine & Marine in Walnut Creek. Cost was $135 and worth every penny (considering how much a new one would cost).
Clutch hydraulics –
When I reassembled my clutch piping, it leaked from the new slave cylinder connection. Probably I should have lubricated the o-ring with brake fluid, but maybe it was just dried out from being 2 years old.
I sourced new o-rings from a hydraulic seal company (Bay Seal in Hayward, CA). The standard o-ring part number is 010. (Bay Seal’s number was 2-010). Use Viton seals, not buna.
I have no idea how the Volvo setup can possibly seal, it is so loose, but, with new seals, lubricated with brake fluid, it did seal. Bleeding the clutch is a pain. I used a number of bleeding devices, but still had no pedal. I also tried a suggestion from the volvospeed forum… After bleeding as best you can, leave everything attached and crack the bleeder screw just slightly. Let the system gravity bleed this was for about 15 minutes, then close the bleeder screw. I actually left it overnight. After doing this, I had about 1/3 of a pedal. I pumped the clutch about 20 times, did the gravity bleed again, and left it overnight again. Then, I had 2/3 of a pedal. I was prepared to do a reverse pressure bleed if this hadn’t worked: Get about 3 feet of bleeder hose, and run it from the left front caliper bleeder screw to the clutch bleeder screw. Then, open both bleeders, and use the brake pedal to force fluid out of the brake system, into the clutch system, and back to the master cylinder. That seems easy enough, but I didn’t try it.
Upon starting the car, the clutch engaged right at the floor, but there was no problem getting it into gear. After less than 5 miles of driving and shifting, the self adjusting mechanism had completely adjusted the clutch to where it was supposed to be. The clutch is smooth as silk and everything is working great.