I stumbled upon a fix today that is easier to do, less stressful on the car, more environmentally correct and easier on neighbor relations that some of the methods I've read about. I'll explain below what I did and why I think it worked for me. Maybe one of the experts on this board will reply whether this makes sense or I was just lucky. Luck is often more desirable than skill.

Background: LMS is a nostart condition. It occurs after a stone cold Volvo 5 cylinder engine has been run just long enough to back the car out of the garage in order to use one' lawn mower (30 seconds or so). The theory is that the car's computer commands a rich fuel mixture when the engine is cold. When the cold engine is turned off, the gasoline from the rich fuel mixture dilutes the oil that helps form a tight seal between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. The result is insufficient compression for the engine to start.

My son's '98 S70 developed LMS after he cranked it cold and moved it to the other side of the driveway so his car no longer blocked my Saab 9000. LMS was discovered the next day when his car wouldn't start. The car has 111K miles and no previous LMS problems. I fixed it 3 days later after doing enough research to decide that LMS was the likely problem.

Here's how:
1. Press the gas pedal to the floor. Keep it there while doing step 2.
2. Crank the engine for 30 seconds, which is long enough for the oil pressure idiot light to turn off (the ambient temp was about 70 degrees when I did this). Cranking 30 seconds pumps motor oil through the engine. But the oil needs a few minutes to do its piston ring magic.
3. Wait 15 minutes. I waited to let the starter motor cool, and only realized after the fact that waiting allowed the oil to fix the compression problem.
4. Press the pedal to the floor and crank. I did this thinking I would crank another 30 seconds before letting the starter motor cool again. To my surprise and delight it fired up almost immediately on all cylinders.
5. Back off the throttle and let it run a minute or so at 2,000 rpm. It idled normally after that. This step may not be necessary, but I wanted to be sure the engine wouldn't die.
6. Go for a short drive to warm up the engine before turning it off. Then restart it for the sake of your peace of mind. I drove until the temperature gauge rose to about 3 o'clock.

My thanks to Klaus and others whose comments pointed me in the right direction.