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I do use an impact gun to take them off and put them back on. Mind you I do this for a living so I know how much is enough and how much is too much with the impact gun. I also put the tiniest amount of loctite (blue) on the nut before I shoot it back down. Oh yeah, it is a nut and not a bolt but you would figure that out in short order once you got in there.
Do I remove the sheild? Even if the bolts weren't as long as they are you still pretty much have to pull that protector to get the belt in and out. Take a look at the two ten millimeter bolts that you remove to get the sheildout of the way, they are made so long that they almost touch the belt, obviously they did that for a reason. Not only do I remove the sheild, I also pull the dampner itself. Here's pretty much a blow by blow on this stuff:
1) Remove the front timing cover and set the engine to TDC
2) Remove the spark plug cover
3) Undo the bolts and brackets for the fuel line, both on the top by the timing covers and down on the backside of the motor.
4) Compress the acc. belt tensioner and put a drill bit in the holes to keep it that way.
5) Remove the front wheel and shoot all of the dampner nuts and bolts out, 4 bolts and one big nut.
6) Spin the nut back on so it is finger tight, realign TDC and paint two white stripe marks on each pulley, from the pulley face to the timing cover. Remove the upper timing cover and set aside.
7) With the acc. belt tensioner locked in the compressed position take a big screwdriver and pop the dampner off. I take and lever a big ass screwdriver between the outer edge of the dampner and the edge of the engine cradle. One good push is usually enough to get it to pop off.
8) With the crank pulley/dampner off you can just lay it over towards the a/c compressor with it still cradled in the acc. belt
9) Remove the protector sheild and be careful not to bend it as it is closely toleranced with the crank pulley.
10) Shoot loose the two 12mm bolt that hold in your tensioner (I am assuming it is hydraulic?) and pull it out of the way.
11) Remove your old belt and install the new one and put it all back together.
12) If you elect to reuse your old hydro tensioner you can re-compress it SLOWLY with a vice. Spin it up in the vice so it is snug and then give it a small twist every 30 seconds to a minute, by small I mean 5 degrees or so.
There you have it, that is a crash course in 850 timing belts. I know because I have done so many of them that I surely glossed over some stuff that you are wondering about. Don't hesitate to post here or e-mail me if you'd like and I will take the time to answer your questions to the best of my ability.
Mark
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