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Kitty suggested my response here based on my recent experience using LED headlights in the 700/900 models, which uses a halogen HB1 format 9004 bulb (a crappy design by Ford), rather the ones used in your XC70, which I believe may be H7 format for the low beams and HB3 (9005) for the high beams.
I've got no direct experience with other LED headlight bulb brands or your headlight application, but do suggest you research the Auxito brand Q16 series bulbs as ones to consider. I've only got 6 months experience with them at the moment, but so far, so good. They're reasonably well engineered, well built and more affordable than many others, including being able to buy them for almost half price direct from their online Auxito webstore in China on Aliexpress rather than through their North American distributor at Auxito.com. When bought from Auxito.com (North America) you get a full two year warranty, no need to ship them back, just send them a pic of your destroyed bulb and a copy of your receipt from them.
https://www.auxito.com/pages/volvo-xc70-bulb-size-guide?srsltid=AfmBOoogXFNrq-RinPGo1AhtZ_Rs1H0zYBPFXcxADhd3cI49RXbBIuG6
As for your dash warning, this is likely a similar problem to what I have with the Volvo RWD bulb out sensor relay. The bulb out sensor is triggered when the electrical draw on the left and right sides of the vehicle lighting circuit are unequal (using what's called a reed switch rather than electronics like your lamp-out module). There's a certain amount of hysteresis in the reed switch (variation tolerance) before the dash warning light goes on. With the Q16 LEDs my dash warning light is normally out, but occasionally comes on during driving. This is likely due to the variable power draw of LED high intensity bulbs to regulate their internal temperature so the electronics don't fry. High intensity LED headlight bulbs consequently lower their brightness a little bit as they warm up as well as needing to use a little variable high speed fan to accomplish this, which in the Q16 bulbs is an internal fan. In others, it may be attached at the rear. Some fans can be heard from outside the hood, some fans like the Q16 are almost silent. When the bulb temperature occasionally becomes uneven in the left and right headlights then the currents may become unequal as they self-regulate and may consequently cause a dash warning. In one of my 940s it seems more prevalent than the other. Re-flowing the solder in that bulb out relay seemed to make a major difference, but hasn't completely eliminated the problem. I also have LEDs in my other lighting circuits that may also be part of the problem.
LED bulbs are listed as either CANBUS (modern car lighting) or non-CANBUS (old style) compatible. Functionally, a CANBUS bulb can normally be used in a non-CANBUS application like ours, but may cause radio static, light flicker and bulb sensor problems. CANBUS adapters are available to deal with this. The Q16s, for example, are CANBUS bulbs that have been designed to be backwards compatible, but may not be 100% compatible for things like the bulb sensor. For the bulbs you're using now, you likely needed a CANBUS adapter to get around your dash warning problems. For other bulbs like the Q16 you may or may not need the adapter. Generic adapters can be added later if you need them.
LED headlights sometimes have fitment issues in the headlight housing, especially the large rear cooling components. The Q16 bulbs are designed with the same profile as the halogens, so that shouldn't be an issue.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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