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Late to the party. I do agree with the "pseudo-racer" admonishment.
If anyone is counting his pennies to buy these poly bushings I suggest spending that money on better tires and better dampers.
>Upper Engine Mount: Don't do on a P1 as the mount goes to the firewall and transmits huge vibrations. My cylindrical bushing crumbled and I wanted to have a lifetime replacement. After trying the cylindrical poly I refreshed my '99's mount with the rubber Volvo part. My old one needed no drilling or hammering to remove as many who posted at the time did. The Volvo part was $16.
However, the "square" design of the P2's mount has play built into it. Here the poly mount is indistinguishable and will last.
>Engine Stabilizer Bar Bushings: I added these because they were dirt cheap and I read somewhere that the stabilizer doubles as a "strut tower stiffener". I didn't feel any change but I didn't expect to as I don't drive spiritedly.
I did not like the way the original setup wobbled about.
>Subframe Bushing Inserts: These too were on sale ($20) and I had read of some improvement. Though small, I liked the improvement in road feel. More importantly I wanted to skip the maintenance task of replacing dried, crumbled subframe bushings. While I'm no suspension engineer, I'd bet filling the voids, which make the bushings nearly solid, will prolong their lives.
>Transmission Torque Rod Bushings: I've only had one of these go on another make of car. I should check mine!
>Glaring Omission: Poly front control arm bushings are something I'd recommend. I bought a pair of control arms at a junkyard and had Power-Flex brand polys pressed in at a local shop. It saved time on my friend's lift.
If I wanted to drive fast (and grind my tires down) I'd install a front anti-roll bar from the company mentioned in the first post. That's a doable and substantial modification.
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