My air pump experience may save you some money. The dreaded “check engine light” came on. I used the OBDII plug/software to determine it was the secondary air system. My friend had just spent $600 at the dealer having this pump replaced. A quick check & sure enough the $230 air pump seemed dead, it was metering almost 200 ohms. Bay13 has good instructions for pump removal from the top of the car. Once I got the pump out & on the bench I thought I’d try the disassembly & repair option first before I ordered a new one. The first thing I did was to remove the snap cover on the end of the motor, this cover contains the wire lead-outs (BTW the end cap does not contain the brushes so it is not tricky to remove or reassemble). Water poured out but there didn’t appear to be any rust. I pulled the spade connectors that attach the led out wires to the brush assembly and found the ground connector to be loose and corroded. Resistance measured directly in the spade terminal was less than 1 ohm, which is about right. I connected a battery directly to the spade terminals and the motor sprang to life. I cleaned the terminals, re-crimped the ground clip to make a good connection, pushed the spade connectors back on, sprayed in some moisture displacer made for electric motors, pushed the end cap of the motor housing back on and reinstalled the pump. The control valve and relay check out OK and now the pump works fine. It took about an hour & a half, start to finish. Now that I’ve done it once I think you can get the end cap of the motor off without removing it from the car by pulling off the air dam and going in from the bottom. Good luck to all you fellow cheapskates out there….

Charlie