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Replace crank seal, timing belt, idler and tensioner roller 850 1997

Greetings,
Well, I went back in to replace the idler and tensioner rollers. I noticed some oil near the bottom on the timing belt cover (note, this is after I have cleaned the area, and driven the car about 50 miles). So, I guess that I need to replace the crank seal. How do I go about removing the crank? Once the crank is out, how do I replace the seal? I have replaced a seal on my VW bus, but it was a lot easier to get to.
Will I be able to remove the crank without an impact driver? I do have a small air compressor, so I could maybe borrow the impact tool from a coworker. Also, since I am getting this into the seals, I plan to go ahead and replace the cam seals also. This engine has 243,000 miles, and I don't know when they were last replaced.
This car is not required at this time, so I am not in a rush to get it back on the road, but I really would like to have it running, and my "spare" GEO Metro has no AC, and it's hot around here.

Thanks,
Stuart








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Replace crank seal, timing belt, idler and tensioner roller 850 1997

OK, I tried the 'put a socket wrench on the crank pulley nut, and brace the wrench against a non-moveable part, and pulse the engine' trick, and it WORKED. That nut came right off. After removing the pulley, I put the nut back on, and realligned the timing marks. Then I removed the nut again, and got my puller, and removed the timing gear. The old seal came right out, and it was "shot". I go inside and get my new seal, and guess what, they sent me a seal for a 240! It is about twice as big. O'well, I will call the vender tomorrow, and have them ship me the right seal.

Take care,
Stuart








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Replace crank seal, timing belt, idler and tensioner roller 850 1997

I talked with a friend at work today, and he says that an impact driver will not work because of the harmonic balancer absorbing the impact. Sounds strange to me. Anyway, he told me about a way that seems a bit strange. He says to place the socket and breaker bar on the nut, and brace the breaker bar to the frame (or some other non-moveable, strong part of the car), and then pulse the ingition. He claims the torque produced by the starter, against the socket/breaker bar, will cause the nut to loosen up without any problems. He claims success on this method more that once.

What are your ideas about this, and if is is not a good idea, how do I get the crank pully off?

Thanks,
Stuart








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Replace crank seal, timing belt, idler and tensioner roller 850 1997

I used a chicago Pneumatic CP734H impact wrench, the crank pulley nut came in seconds (Even I don't have to hold the crank pulley).







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