Sweet deal, cousin doesn't want to hassle trade in BS and is moving to Honda/Infinity/Lexus.

Car is being offered to me a 1/2 Wholesale.

Saw it this weekend at the new house and drove it Check engine light is on, haven't had a chance to run it to my favorite shop for a look ssee.

Anything special I should look for besides typical OBD Codes (can I use std OBD Reader?)
Besides ABS box and TB (mechanical thank god) and turbo what else is a genade w/out a pin?

Car runs fine and they do talk care of it. All service has been dealer based.

hey there, just hit the 390000mile mark. ill be hitting the 300000 mark in a few weeks in the 6 years ive owned it. im the forum expert on beating the h out of this car with NO maintenance. call me a moron but i think there is a little too much maintaining going on. i tow a 1500lb trailer most of the time and i have NEVER flushed the tranny. two fluid changes all this time. still have the original steering wheel. ha. [thats a joke son]

I may be wrong, but I think you can read the codes yourself using the interface (button and LED) in the engine compartment. You can on the '95. Maybe not on yours, since the more knowledgeable people didn't mention it.

There is no OBD interface for a '94 850. The button box is all you got. See Bay 13 for information.

Check the OBDII codes, easy to do, and you will probably find the charcoal filter box is the problem. Most of the codes are for emmissions related stuff. The Turbo is a blast to drive, but can be a handful in the wet and snow, so take it easy when that happens. The AC should start to leak about now, so just add a can of r134a once in a while. $10/can is better than taking the entire car apart to find and fix the leak.
Check the tranny carefully, the ATF should look rusty colored. Then flush it when you get the car home. Buy some torx screw drivers, you will need them!

Good luck,
Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

Yup, already did the Bay 13 tour and realized that I need to spend some $$ at the Snap On truck..

Is ut a Mitsu sourced turbo unit? I have a local source for rice buy stuff so it would be nice.

The turbo is already at 222BHP, enough to spin the wheels at full throttle while rolling at 25mph. If you do a lot of that, change the tranny fluid often and use synthetic oil in the engine.
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

Yup, already did the Bay 13 tour and realized that I need to spend some $$ at the Snap On truck..

Is ut a Mitsu sourced turbo unit? I have a local source for rice buy stuff so it would be nice.

Half wholesale? You mean about $1000.00?
How many miles? The mileage is important. The readout of the codes might be helpful.
The 850 turbo is a fun car, which many describe as "unique" or "quirky". The nice soft throttle tip-in encourages smooth driving (which is good especially because it takes your mind off the considerable turbo lag), and the brakes are terrific. I've heard that some folks aren't too taken by the seats, but for me, the seats alone were worth the price of admission. The steering is accurate, and the handling is predictable right on up to the car's limits, although the effects of wheel and tire size/type are significant.
Once the turbo is spooled up, the car is a hoot!
Since you're getting such a good price on the initial purchase, you'll have a few spare bucks for service and such.... to be completely honest, Volvo's are like family... we seem to love 'em even though they periodically ask us for a few bucks, and they occasionally get us annoyed.
Please respond with as much info about the car as possible.

Marty
'96 855T

i've gotta take a run up 2 scarsdale and check it out better. I've had 7 240's
and remember the 94 when it came out (93 with balls is what my friends called it).

Yes the seats are great, its the all power model and was the wife'scar.

Just cruised Bay 13 so I apologise for not knowing it was OBD readout in the car as opposed to a code box (too many Audi/VW tweeks lately).

Nice thing is the car hasn't been beat up, I've seen a few 94 and 95 models after 75 K of "mod inspired driving" and the base chassis was trasned and needed everything. this one doesn;t seem to...

I had a '94 850 turbo wagon and loved it.

Read the codes from the box next to the windshield washer filler and do it immediately to see why the check engine light is on. If it's the service reminder light, that's no big deal as it just comes on to remind you to change your oil and can be turned off easily from the black box I mentioned. You'll want to buy a Haynes manual for your car. It gives the codes as well as how to reset everything, etc. and other how to's. You can buy one of these at Pep Boys or just about any auto parts store now. Get a cabin filter too (lift the plastic piece under the hood closest to the passenger (after a few torx bolts removed) and put one in. www.ipdusa.com sells a kit for this and it will help debris from getting in your A/C system and prolong your evaporator...a major repair when it finally begins to leak bad. Like someone else said, use R-134A gas with some leak sealer in it if you are already loosing some pressure. A kit at Walmart has the right connectors and a guage. The only in-let for the gas is next to and below the windshield washer fill tank (has a black plastic cap on it to keep dirt out). Also, I'm partial to K&N oiled panel air filters. This will help your engine breath better and is cheaper than an OEM filter in the long run. I have these filters in both of our current Volvo's. Other than this, make sure the Timing belt has been changed at 70K miles (140K, 210K miles, etc.) and the idlers/tensioners are also changed every other TB change. Bay13 has diagrams on how to do this yourself and it isn't that bad. Clean the crank case ventilation system, or in your car the flame trap (you should check it immediately...Very Important...will keep you from having a head ache later), as when this clogs up you build up pressure and will kill your rear main seal...very expensive to have fixed and messy when it begins to leak. Other than this, clunky suspension is a bother in these cars but these can be remedies with parts you can buy for cheapest at www.shox.com (I would replace all spring seats and strut/shock mounts when you change suspension parts). Also check into IPD's anti-sway bars and their heavy duty end links for a real tight suspension and enjoyable ride. Oh yeah, one more thing...do a transmission flush (explained on Bay13) with Mobil-1 Synthetic ATF and keep your car's oil changed every 5-6K miles or so with Mobil-1 Full synthetic as well. If you stay with Dino oil, don't go much over 3k miles.

Good luck and have fun with your car!
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon