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Greetings,
Today, I installed my new timing belt. I noticed when I had the old one off that the idler and tensioner pullies did not spin as easy as I thought they should. The water pump had no leaks and turned easy, without any play in the pump. Even though the pullies were tight, I installed the new belt. Everything went fine, and the car runs great, but I do have a noise, which I believe to be the idler and tensioner rollers. I have ordered new rollers, and as soon as they get in, I will start the process over again.
I know that I should have just stoped when I realized the rollers were going bad, but I really wanted to see the car run again, and I did need to move it.
Overall, replacing the timing belt is NOT a hard process. It does seem a bit scary, having never replaced the belt before, but I did not have any real problems. Since I did a lot of cleaning in the belt area, the next time will be a lot nicer.
What problems should I expect to encounter when I go to replace the rollers? Are they easy to get to (I know, easy is a relative term here!) Anyway, I have 244,000 miles on this car, and I really want to see it turn 500,000.
Thanks for the help in replacing the belt. Let me know what to expect when I remove the rollers.
Thanks,
Stuart
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I just got back from a local auto part store, and found a L-shaped Torx 45 mm bit. I think I can remove the tensioner pulley bracket mounting T45 by using this L-shaped T45 bit and a long steel pipe. You may try this option if you have a hard time removing the tensioner pulley T45.
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vwstuart,
Did you replace a water pump on your car? Or, your car still have an original Volvo water pump? I think removing a T45 bolt on the tensioner pulley mount brackat is not easy. You may remove it little easy since you have more space with a 5 cylinder engine. Thanks.
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posted by
someone claiming to be marty
on
Sat Aug 6 13:17 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I just recently came across a site with great pics about changing a timing belt, but I'll be damned if I can find it again (it wasn't bay 13, obviously). I remember the author making mention that there was a problem holding the bolt on the tensioner pulley, and that he actually had to make a bend into the body of a wrench to accomplish the task. If I recall correctly, with the wisdom of hindsight, he advocated replacing the tensioner roller while the assembly was out of the car. He also did his idler and water pump. He said something about loosening the motor mount to make belt reinstallation easier. Wish I could find the whole article again. Sorry.
Marty
'96 855T
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You must talk about the ksg's posts. Try to search with a keyword "ksg" in this board.
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I replaced 2 months ago, my timing belt with the water pump, tensioner damper,
tensioner & idler pulleys. It has been quite an "easy job" for everything but the "toughest" part to replace has been the tensioner pulley. My 3/8" drive T-45 torx bit was too long to reach adequatelly the pulley's torx screw, not enough room. Instead, I bought a T-45 single bit, grinded both ends and I used a little 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" box and it worked out perfectly.
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Norm
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Boogie850, what's the mileago on your car when replacing the water pump? Yesterday, I tried to install a new water pump. But, I could not remove the tensioner pulley mounting T45 since I can't put a T45 socket and 3/8" drive ratch in a limit space (since my s80 has a 6 cylinder engine, there may be more space on a 5 cylinder 850). I will get a small air ratchet next time to remove this T45. I think you can sell your specialized T45 bit on Ebay auction.
Anyway, I checked out the water pump condition, and it was still strong (I compared it with a new GEBA water pump (made in Germany, bought at FCPgroton). I replace all new idler pulley, hydraulic tensioner damper, serpentine belt tensioner, timing belt, serpentine belt, and 4 vibration damper bolts. Althoug the idler pulley was still as good as a new one, I installed a new one since it was very cheap.
I think the serpentine belt tensioner needs to get an attention. I can hear the plastic belt roller bearing sound when I couldn't hear any sound from idler pulley and tensioner pulley. My car mileage is about 102K miles. Thanks.
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Hi there,
My '95 just turned out 200K last may.
The water pump had a little bit play in the bearing but no leaks, but I think it was just a matter of time before it started to leak, that's why I've decided to replace it along with the belt, the dampner and the pulleys. The tensionner pulley was very tight & didn't turned easy, the idler pulley was noisy like a very "dry" & rusted bike bearing and the dampner was starting to leak a little bit of oil, just a little bit near the plunger. Finally, the "timing" was perfect to replace everything while I was in there. I bought all my parts at FCP Groton, great great service.
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Norm
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That's good news for me. That means I can replace a new water pump and a tensioner pulley/bracket assembly on my next timing belt service (200K). Since I knew what the problems are, and I can prepare better (a small air ratch or L-shaped T45 bit) to remove the tensioner pulley mounting T45 bolt. Thank for your info again.
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