|
|
|
Sometimes I think this web site & bay 13 are hazardous to my health! I'm thinking of trying the timing belt change myself and am having doubts. I have followed bay 13 advice on brake work, sunroof, pnp switch & micro switch, so far so good. I've discovered it always takes me longer to do than I hoped and I always have one or several problems that I don't anticipate. The timing belt seems more of a job and with higher risks if it goes badly. Any thoughts from other weekend mechanics who have done this would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hello all! The car is back together and running! The project stretched over two days, with a total time of at least 7 or 8 hours. I did have a friend come by and double check my alignment marks. I had never done this before so I wanted to make sure. I still had a bear of a time seeing the notch down on the cog at the crankshaft pulley. I tried to follow the bay 13 procedure for this project. I did remove the lower shield, plate w/10mm bolts. But I did not remove the crankshaft pulley. This leaves only a tiny gap to work the old belt off and the new belt on. After much wiggling, cursing, tool throwing and a break or two the belt will come out or go on. Taking the pulley off would make this much easier but I was worried about what problems I might run into with that. The last problem I had was pulling the pin out of the tensioner. I had used a small allen wrench but did not have any vise grips to pull it out with. I finally got it out using some electical pliers and a small pry bar. I usually have troble with the parts of the job that seems easiest. Thanks to everyone for your help, ideas and encouragement! Now what shalll I try next? Jim.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I replaced mine last month as per Bay 13 instructions along with the water pump, tensioner dampner, both tensioner & idler pulleys and it tooked me approx 10 hours
It has been easy but I found that it has been A LOT easier to remove/re-install the t-belt by removing the right front motor mount, only 4 bolts !!
Bought all my parts at FCP Groton great service.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies. I have decided to attempt it. I'm currently battling to get the old belt off! It's stuck at the bottom around the crankshaft pulley. Other problems: releasing the tension on the serpentine belt, I used the 3 pennies tech. someone else had mention on this forum, a tool would help! Also the bolts on the tensioner were a bit of a pain. Well, back to the car to see if I can thread the old belt out. Thanks all, Jim.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies. I have decided to attempt it. I'm currently battling to get the old belt off! It's stuck at the bottom around the crankshaft pulley. Other problems: releasing the tension on the serpentine belt, I used the 3 pennies tech. someone else had mention on this forum, a tool would help! Also the bolts on the tensioner were a bit of a pain. Well, back to the car to see if I can thread the old belt out. Thanks all, Jim.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Waterman,
Did you remove the bottom belt protector (shield) by taking out two 10 mm bolts? I am wondering why you have a difficuly removing an old timing belt after taking out the bottom belt protector. I was told a new timing belt of volvo 850 can be installed without removing the crankshaft pulley nut. I believe you don't have an impact wrench to easily remove the crankshaft pulley nut.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I've done a few hundred of them at the least, they're a piece of cake. Seriously though, they do have the potential for disaster that is for sure, but if you take your time and follow the tutorial closely you should be ok. Yours should still have the mechanical tensioner in it which really simplifies things. Just take your time, alot an entire day for it, make double sure that everything lines up BEFORE you start the car and double check everything to make sure it is all tight before you start it and/or button it up.
Mark
|
|
-
|
|
|
Rule 308,
Did you use a crankshaft pulley holder when removing/installing the crankshaft pulley bolt? I am going to use an air impact wrench to easily remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, but a friend of mine recommended I should buy an universal pulley holder (around $50) not to rotate the crankshaft pulley. I was also told by a local mechanic that he simply used an impact wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (without using a pulley holder) since there is already some tension by a timing belt and drive belts. Do you think this is sound reasonable? Did you also remove the bottom belt protector (by removing two 10 mm bolts) to easily take out a timing belt? Thanks in advance.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I do use an impact gun to take them off and put them back on. Mind you I do this for a living so I know how much is enough and how much is too much with the impact gun. I also put the tiniest amount of loctite (blue) on the nut before I shoot it back down. Oh yeah, it is a nut and not a bolt but you would figure that out in short order once you got in there.
Do I remove the sheild? Even if the bolts weren't as long as they are you still pretty much have to pull that protector to get the belt in and out. Take a look at the two ten millimeter bolts that you remove to get the sheildout of the way, they are made so long that they almost touch the belt, obviously they did that for a reason. Not only do I remove the sheild, I also pull the dampner itself. Here's pretty much a blow by blow on this stuff:
1) Remove the front timing cover and set the engine to TDC
2) Remove the spark plug cover
3) Undo the bolts and brackets for the fuel line, both on the top by the timing covers and down on the backside of the motor.
4) Compress the acc. belt tensioner and put a drill bit in the holes to keep it that way.
5) Remove the front wheel and shoot all of the dampner nuts and bolts out, 4 bolts and one big nut.
6) Spin the nut back on so it is finger tight, realign TDC and paint two white stripe marks on each pulley, from the pulley face to the timing cover. Remove the upper timing cover and set aside.
7) With the acc. belt tensioner locked in the compressed position take a big screwdriver and pop the dampner off. I take and lever a big ass screwdriver between the outer edge of the dampner and the edge of the engine cradle. One good push is usually enough to get it to pop off.
8) With the crank pulley/dampner off you can just lay it over towards the a/c compressor with it still cradled in the acc. belt
9) Remove the protector sheild and be careful not to bend it as it is closely toleranced with the crank pulley.
10) Shoot loose the two 12mm bolt that hold in your tensioner (I am assuming it is hydraulic?) and pull it out of the way.
11) Remove your old belt and install the new one and put it all back together.
12) If you elect to reuse your old hydro tensioner you can re-compress it SLOWLY with a vice. Spin it up in the vice so it is snug and then give it a small twist every 30 seconds to a minute, by small I mean 5 degrees or so.
There you have it, that is a crash course in 850 timing belts. I know because I have done so many of them that I surely glossed over some stuff that you are wondering about. Don't hesitate to post here or e-mail me if you'd like and I will take the time to answer your questions to the best of my ability.
Mark
|
|
-
|
|
|
Rule308,
I used your tips and Bay13 instructions to install a new timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, hydraulic tensioner on my 1999 S80 non-turbo. I was not able to finish this job due to the following issues. Please help me out if you can.
------
After taking out the crankshaft nut and vibration damper, I tried to remove the crankshaft pulley by using a harmonic balance puller. I was very surprised that the timing gear was also came out together with the crankshaft pulley (or, the pulley for the auxiliaries belt). The timing gear and the crankshaft pulley were connected by a small hollow pin, and luckily I could stop this job before cutting out a timing belt. I reasembled the pulley and all parts back from this point. I installed a new drive belt only although I bought so many parts from internet. My car works just like before.
I would like to find out how I can remove the crankshaft pulley without pulling out the timing gear. I was also not able to remove the hydraulic tensioner bottom bolt since I couldn't put a 12mm socket due to a little interferencing with the crankshaft pulley. Please let me know any good tips on how to remove the crankshaft pulley of S80. Thanks in advance.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you very much for your clear post. It seems to me you don't have to use a crankshaft pulley holder when installing a new timing belt. I am going to set an airflow adjustment tab in my impact wrench (CP 734 model) a little less than middle, and then increase air flow little by little until I can remove the crankshaft pulley nut. That torque probably closes to the specified crankshaft nut locking torque, and I can finally tighten with a 18 inch torque wrench. Thanks again for your help.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Slee,
Your removal technique sounds like it might work but if you are intentioned up torquing it with a conventional wrench you will need some way of locking it all down to prevent the crank from moving. Your other option is to do it the way they teach you in Volvo school which is to leave the dampner in place and work your way around it. I find it so much easier to just shoot the bolts and nut out and remove and then just gun it back down when I am done that I do it that way. There are plenty of Volvo techs out there that do it the text book way too.
It is a little different but on a six cylinder engine you do not really have the room to get in there with you 1/2" impact so you have to work around it and the crank pulley assembly on that one is even bigger. I like having it out of the way on the 5 cylinder models like yours because aside from easy acces to the belt and crank gear it also makes pulling the tensioner with a wobbly socket a pretty much straight shot.
Either way you cannot go wrong.
Mark
|
|
|
|
|
