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96 850 GLT Automatic/No Turbo/135,000K
Yesterday, I made the horrific mistake of driving into 2 feet of water during a down pour. The car kept running for about a mile, and then just died. I couldn't turn it over. It sounded like the plugs were all shot. Had it towed home.
I changed the plugs this morning. I seem to have a "charge" on the battery, but the car won't even "crank" today, as it did yesterday.
I jumped the battery, but nothing is happening, other than lights/radio/accessories, working fine.
Whaddaya think? Did I cook a computer chip, the electrical system, etc.?
What do I do next?
Joel Stieglitz
96-850
216-272-5276
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posted by
someone claiming to be MARK
on
Mon Aug 30 01:31 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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I'd pull the plugs, pop the the hood, and let it sit for a few days. Renting a car for a few days might very well be the cheapest way out. Did you catch anything while you were trolling?
Mark '94 855T
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bill D Cat
on
Sun Aug 29 12:22 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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You might be covered.
-BTC
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Thanx, I never thought of that.
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Two feet is a LOT of water for an 850. Uncover all of the electrical works and make sure they are dry, especially the computer box and fuse box. Take off the distributer cap and let the car dry. If it ran for a mile after getting wet, it isn't something mechanical.
--
95 854T, 88 780, 88 245
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Thank you for your help. I guess it's a trip to the dealer next. I have done all I can do myself.
Steellight@aol.com
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Don't sound like Igor, the dealer will rob you blind! Insist he give you all of your "used" parts back, they never fix things, just replace them until it works again.
Besides, driving through a little water shouldn't cause a car to never run again. Especially a car with Volvo's reputation of reliability and durability. Your car isn't a Yugo!
Kepp a positive attitude and smile. Remember it is never your fault, even if it is.
Klaus
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95 854T, 88 780, 88 245
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Actually, an engine ingesting water can cause it to self destruct. Someone mentioned hydro-lock before, and thats what can happen. Since water is essentially uncompressable, when a significant amount enters the piston bores, the engine will try to do what it does on every compression stroke, compress whats in the bore. Since water won't compress, usually what happens is you end up with bent rods and/or sheared wrist pins. Either way, it's time to throw out the motor. However, if the motor ran for a mile or so after hitting the water I would think this is not the case, and that the problem lie in the electrical system or starter.
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posted by
someone claiming to be bl
on
Sun Aug 29 08:05 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Do you hear a noise, a click or anything when you engage the starter? If you hear not a sound, the starter/selenoid are probably still full of water as 2' of water would about cover them. Wouldn't think 2' would be high enough to soak you ECU etc. Just a guess
bl
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Thanx for your response. I had the battery tested, and it appears to be OK.
No, there is not a sound when I try the ignition. Being the novice that I am, it's probably a tow to the dealer next.
Thanx Again.
Steellight@aol.com
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posted by
someone claiming to be bl
on
Sun Aug 29 15:40 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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As Klaus mentioned, I'd try a few things before taking it to the dealer if you have the time. My dealer would steal from his own mother so I avoid him like the plague unless necessary. You have a no crank situation that points to your starter system vs the ignition but I'd at least look in your "ECU Box" to see if there is water inside which I'd doubt. It's a black box on the passenger side fender in front of the radiator expansion tank. Has a black plastic tube that runs from the radiator shroud to it. Cover snaps off. Look inside with a flashlight for water.
As it ran after the incident, this probably isn't the case but water in a cylinder will prevent the engine from cranking. The engine is said to be hydrostatically locked. Even if this is the case, you should still hear the starter selenoid click but maybe not. You said you had the plugs out. Did you notice if any were wet? The quick way to check this is to remove all plugs again all at once and then try cranking the engine. If HL is present, the water will be ejected from the plug hole(s). I doubt this is the problem but on an engine partly submerged, it'd be on my suspect list. Easy and free to check and worth a try before taking it in.
bl
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posted by
someone claiming to be mjamgb
on
Mon Aug 30 11:06 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Cupping and overinflation wear are different. Cupping is from bad shocks not damping the bounding of the wheel induced from the road and exacerbated by the springs. Overinflation wear is pretty much what you describe.
Start with door pressure. increase inflation in 5# increments until you find one that offers the best compromise (for you) between comfort and road-holding. Typically sidewall pressure is for the maximum load condition (hah, like you drive a 8000# Volvo!). Tire salesmen like to say to inflate to max sidewall pressure but it is UNTRUE. It would say "inflate to XXpsi" instead of "max inflation pressure XXpsi" if it were any sort of gospel.
If the difference in wear is on the order of 2/32" then I'd lower the pressure all the way down to what your sticker says and drive it awhile that way.
Mike!
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Thanks to all!!!!!
--
'82 DL - 158k, '93 945 - 116k
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My brother-in-law drove his '95 850T into 2 feet of water a few yrs ago.
Water into the intake froze the pistons in the cylinders. It's like pouring sand in there. You may not think this is a lot of water, but the car pushes up a wall of water and 2 ft turns into 3 ft high when you go through it, thus right into the engine. Also had a friend with a '94 F150 do this in 2 ft of water.
New engine needed.
Look at the dipstick and see if there's oil in the crank. In my Bro's case his ins got him a 30k mile T5R engine to go in there. Turbo and everything else was OK.
--
'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon
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