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The A/C lines that connect with the EVAP through the firewall need to be removed with special release clamps called Spring Lock Couplers. Snap On sells a set that include sizes 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 inch for different size refrigerant lines. I bought the couplers for 1981 to late model Fords.
They are circular and have a lip that fits into the back of where the lines and EVAP connect. There is a spring (which you can't see) that the coupler pushes back and breaks the seal. It doesn't just come apart after using the coupler. Mine were very subborn but when I realized that they were coming apart, green liquid (the dye) and the lubricant started to squirt out! Wrap a rag around this connection when you pull it apart.
Although I purchased new gaskets for the heater hoses that connect through the firewall, I never replaced them and I never developed a leak. If they aren't leaking now, don't mess with them. But, if you deceide to disconnect them, then you'll need to buy new clip gaskets to make the repair complete. Mine had a diagram instructing that you push a screwdriver on both sides to make the gaskets release the hose. When you get deep into the repair you'll see where those hoses connect on back of the HVAC housing. It's held in place by one allen screw! Coolant will be released when you remove these pipes so be ready with another set of rags!
Here is a breakdown of how I approached the repair/replacement of my EVAP. It has been two years and it's still holding strong!
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove wiper arms
3. Remove cowl cover
4. Remove wiper motor assembly and pollen filter with housing if installed (REMEMBER,IF YOU MAKE THIS REPAIR AND DON'T INSTALL THE PARTICULATE FILTER KIT, THEN YOU REPAIRED IT FOR NOTHING! THIS FILTER WILL KEEP THE INCOMING AIR CLEAN FROM POLLEN AND INDUSTRIAL POLLUTANTS. THESE MICROSCOPIC PARTS ARE WHAT ATE HOLES IN THE EVAP IN THE FIRST PLACE!)
5. Remove dashboard bolts - there are four and are located in back of where you removed the wiper motor assembly)
6. Pull out the driver and front passenger door sill trim to expose screws so you can...
7. Remove right and left lower kick panel
8. Remove passenger knee bolster and right mounting bracket
9. Remove center console (I never did this. I just pushed it back enough for the dash to be removed. There are a few screws that hold the console in place. I believe one is located right in-front of the cigarette lighter and the other is in the arm rest junk box)
10. Remove radio and disconnect from back
11. Remove ECC/MCC wires cables (leave control panels intact)
12. Remove steering wheel. (First you have to remove air bag to remove wheel. Turn the wheel to 9 o'clock and feel for a screw whole in the back. Stick a long allen wrench (don't remember what size) into the whole and remove screw. Turn the wheel to 3 o'clock and do the same. This will release the airbag.
13. Remove turn signal/wiper switches and the plastic bracker for wiring connectors
14. Remove contact reel (for protection) Wrap cloth around column shaft and tape it to prvent scratching components during dash removal
15. Disconnect electrical connections by removing MAIN harness connections only at the left side of dash. (If I remember correctly, this connection is RED. IT WAS A PAIN TO DISCONNECT. IT RESEMBLED THE CONNECTION FOR THE PNP TRANNY SWITCH. YOU PUSH A VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER INTO END CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR AND IT SHOULD POP APART)
16. Disconnect SRS connectors behind and to the left of glovebox opening for right side airbag. ON TURBO MODELS: Remove hose to vacuum gauge.
Remove entire dash assembly. THIS REQUIRES 2 PEOPLE.
17. Remove Cruise control servo. (I believe this is right above those heater hoses.)
18. Release heater hose connections (remember those rags)
19. Release refrigerant hose connections (if you haven't done so already)
20. Release SRS wiring from steering column. This allows wiring harness to drop, and permits access to climate housing.( big white boxy contraption)
21. Remove brackets that connect heater box to floor pan. These are right an left braces.
22. Remove Climate housing (HVAC) from vehicle.
23. Remove top of HVAC unit (on passenger side) and take out the old evap. I nailed mine to the wall and threw darts at it!
24. Remove blower and temp sensor and wash every part with a mixture of bleach and water. Clean the fan and the inside of the HVAC unit. Since the EVAP will not be contaminated with pollen etc, you have to clean and dry everywhere air had been circulating before this repair. I used an air-gun to blow out any/all dust and contaminates.
25. Install new EVAP. Before you hook the EVAP to the refridgerant lines, you must replace the two O-rings that are noticeable. You need to lubricate the rings with compressor oil. It's easier to connect the lines when lubricated and it creates a seal when the system is put under pressure from recharging.
26. Reassemble in reverse order
To make sure that I didn't have any missing/additional screws, I would put screws back into holes until needed. Also, you'll have to cut and replace many cable ties, so have a-bunch of different lengths on hand.
I must point out that I did mine in November and didn't have anyone available to evacuate and recharge the system. I didn't have this done until the following May. My EVAP could have been BAD and this would have made the repair a waste of time. But, my EVAP proved to be 100% and it continues to hold a good charge. I purchased a genuine VOLVO evap that had been treated with a NEW kind-of coating.
I didn't need my car during this time, so did it over two days with a friend. If it gets frustrating (and it will), just step back and do something else.
There are alot of sharp edges, so care for your fingers and hands.
That's it.
dpsc
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