Todd,

If you have a rear main seal that needs replacing, thats about a $1500 job. I know because I just had mine done. Yikes!

But it might be something cheaper - some oil leaks are only $100 to fix.

I tried the oil leak / lubricant type products from the auto store. It didn't help much. I think if the seals are just a little dry & worn, it helps. If the seals are cracked, it doesn't.

If you do try the oil leak products, then be sure to use the kind that is chemical and contains no particulates. The kind with particulates (that clog the leak) also clog your engine in the long run. Does more harm than good.

Kathy

You might consider STP's Stop Leak. While my "experiment" is still in process, I appear to have cut the leakage to a tenth of what it was.

Mike

see also http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=773613

Generally that's a traditional hedge against a rear seal job. With these engines though I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you started hearing the lifters with 20W50. Depends on where you live but I don't think that weight is recommended for any climate.

As you also have some possible oil smoke from the tailpipe it may be time to look at the bigger picture. Labor for a rear seal is not going to be cheap as I'm sure you know.

If yours is a non-turbo (removing turbo related oil seepage) I'd say your blue smoke at idle is very likely to be guide related. Another way to tell is to drive at freeway speed, let off the gas and coast (making for high manifold vacumn) then step on the gas again. If you see a big plume of blue smoke it is a guide or seal issue.

At idle, or during the off-throttle test I described, the throttle body butterfly is closed making for high vacumn. If the guides or seals are worn, the vacumn will pull oil down the valve stems.

If your engine is a non-turbo I'd be looking for a rebuild or good salvage yard replacement.

--
Erwin in Memphis, '88 745t 193,000 miles, '95 855t 96,000 miles

20W-50 may slow the leak, but obviously doesn't fix the cause.

You might try using a dose of AutoRx--have seen some very good reports on it. Probably worth a try, anyhow.

depends on where you live, in hot areas is OK.

Here in Florida, with summer 9 mos out of the year and winter temps in the high 40's for 2 weeks, I been using 20-50w on my high mileage bricks(over 100K miles) without problems.

If you live in an area where it freezes in winter, then NO, but instead 10-40W.
--
'98 v70 GLT John, Tampa Bay

I wouldn't so the heavier oil. I believe in oil moving at the instant the starter is turning... I do use 5W30 in the winter. I'll live with the leaks if they occur until they can be fixed.