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Bob: Did you remove the bolt from the starter support bracket on the LH side (as you are hanging over the radiator). This is a bolt facing forward and screwing into the block, going through the LH lower end of the bracket that holds the inboard end of the starter (the other end contains the Bendix that goes into the engine).
Yes, you did right to remove the fan and shroud as you need as much room as you can get.
You should almost be there in getting it out. If in doubt use a flashlight and a small hand mirror to see what you have got. Very tight quarters on the 850---the downside of this machine compared to the 240.
You did not say what the problem is, but if it is like my wife's 96 850 Turbo Wagon, the starter problem was that it was all gunked up with carbon from the brushes mixed in with old grease.
The symptoms on hers was that the Bendix would hang up and not disengage. I ordered in a new starter for $300 plus but found after I removed the old one that the old one needed only cleaning and relubrication. I used lubriplate white grease.
But I wish I had ordered in new brushes as at 110K, these were over half used up. But being 300 miles from a Volvo garage I just cleaned it all up and relubed it and it has worked flawlessly for the past two years.
Take notes and draw diagrams as you are tearing the starter down if you are going to do a complete lube, as it took me three or four hours to re-assemble it properly, because of some little oddity I no longer rermember. It kept binding on re-assembly such that the armature did not turn freely, but once I figured out my error it went together fine. After re-assembly, apply 12 volts and the starter Bendix should throw the gears to the end of the starter and the starter should spin freely.
I was astonished to find almost NO wear on the bearings and gears in the starter (this is a geared starter, so the planetary gears need cleaning and lubing too). Thus a rebuilt starter would have, in my humble opinion, gained me nothing. Your mileage may vary on starter wear.
It takes care and patience to rebuild a starter, but it's not rocket science. You need to devise a way to hold the brushes out against their springs when you re-insert the armature (which copper parts that run agains the brushes you have carefully polished with fine emery cloth after cleaning) into the starter body. The $300 rebuilt replacement sitting on the workbench is a great motivator of creative problem solving.
If you turn the key but there is nothing, no click, no starter engagement, then perhaps it is the solenoid. But you can bench test this after the starter is out by applying 12 volts across the terminals to see if the starter clicks and runs. The click is the solenoid functioning. The function of the solenoid is to create a massive electrical contact which which puts a large current to the starter to start the starter spinning and which spinning action slams the Bendix gears into the flywheel, thus "cranking" the car over. (The greater rpm of the Volvo motor then spins the starter gears away from the flywheel, providing that the person twisting the key hears the engine start and quits twisting the key).
But if your starter does not disengage after you have released the key and you can hear ti grinding against the flywheel, then the Bendix is not returning properly, which is a symptom of gummed up grease (my case).
All of this is saying that you may just need a cleaning and lube job, and perhaps a new set of brushes.
Good luck--hope this helps.
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