|
DenzO.
This is the way I wired my auxilliary socket. You may want to consider another approach. YMMV and you do this at your own risk.
Also, be aware that if you connect high draw equipment you may discharge your battery as the socket is powered all the time.
From Radio Shack:
1. 14-16 or 16-18 gauge wire ( I got black and red to avoid confusion).
2. A lighter socket NOT for use in a panel. They have one in black w/solder connections and a screw-on back.
3. A pack of crimp-fit spade connectors and assorted size crimp-fit open or closed ring connectors for the wire gauge chosen.
4. A 10 to 15 amp fuse holder.
5. Zip-ties and some wire loom are always a good idea.
You will need:
1. A 40 watt soldering iron & rosin core solder.
2. Crimping pliers.
3. A very large zip-tie or straightened coat hanger to fish the wiring through the firewall.
The procedure is:
1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Be sure you have your radio code!
2. Remove the soundproofing panel below the steering wheel.
3. Get a good light and look high up to the left of the brake pedal above the carpet & padding and you will see a grommet with 4 different sized nipples capping wire loom.
4. Pull the loom down slightly and remove the cap.
5. Cut off the tip on the nipple of your choice.
6. Get a large zip-tie or straightened coar hanger and carefully push it thourgh the loom until you can see it protruding into the engine compartment around the main fuse box / strut tower.
7. Cut the red & black wires to 10-12 foot lengths.
8. SECURELY attach them to the probe and pull it back into the cabin. Be sure to leave several feet in the engine compartment.
9. You should now have 2 wires inside the car.
10. Thread the wires through the cap correctly.
In the engine compartment:
11. Strip @1/4" of insulation from the Red wire and crimp the female spade connector to it.
12. Crimp the ring connector sized to fit around the shaft of the screw which tightens the positive battery terminal to one lead of the fuse.
13. Crimp the male spade connector to the other lead of the fuse.
14. Select a ring connector that will fit around the screw (under the nut) of the nearest grounding strap on the firewall.
15. Strip the insulation and crimp this to the black wire and attach.
16. Attach the fuse's ring lead to the positive battery terminal & tighten.
17. Secure the fuse holder with zip-tie and connect the M & F spades.
18. Route the black & red wires carefully and securely away from moving and or heating parts. It is a good idea to place them in wire loom.
Back in the car:
18. Gently pull the wires until slack is remove and they are positioned safely in the engine compartment.
Now, where you place the socket is up to you. I ran mine under the drivers' seat since my phone is mounted to to the console and I didn't want the wiring to show. IF this is where you want yours, then:
19. Remove the door sill trim piece.
20. Pull back the carpet and route the wires under and along the carpet edge, being careful not to place them in the trim clips.
21. When you get to the carpet seam measure @ 1 foot of wire on each and remove the remainder.
22. Replace the carpet and the sill trim piece.
23. Slip the wires though the end of the socket cap.
24. Strip @1/4 inch of insulation from each wire and solder the BLACK wire to the side terminal and the RED wire to the center terminal.
25. Screw the cap on securely.
26. Enclose the wires in a section of loom and route under the rear heat (floor) vent.
27. I just plug the adapter in and leave in lying on the floor next to the console.
IF you want the socket somewhere else, then:
28. Measure to that location BEFORE cutting any excess wire and proceed as 23-25 above.
Finally,
29. Secure the cap on the end of the wire loom.
30. Install the fuse in the fuse holder.
31. Connect the Neg battery cable.
If everything works then reinstall the soundproofing panel, etc.
Good luck,
Bryan
|
