My ignition lock cylinder has developed a grinding feel to it when turning to the third/crank position. The number two spot is not crisp feeling either. I simply wiggled my key while on the highway and it shut down the engine. The actual electrical switch portion seems ok when I remove it and turn it with a screwdriver. When I place a load on the rod portion of the cylinder that goes into the switch and turn the lock, I can feel the grinding sensation. Dealer agrees I need a new cylinder. Contrary to what I have read here, he says that it is ordered from Sweden and takes about 1 week. They also want 2.5 hours of labor to do the swap over and will have to drill/tap out the old cylinder.

Does this labor rate sound normal? What does the rate manual say? What kind of crazy system requires you to have to drill the lock apart? Seems like this is way too common a failure on these cars and would pose a safety concern.

You have to remove the air bag, steering wheel, column covers, turn sig and wiper switches, air bag contact reel, shift lock cable, then drill out and "ez-out" the break-away bolts. Not exactly rocket science, but time consuming.

I did this last weekend, and did not have to remove the steering wheel or the airbag. Remove the cover, both stocks and the electrical portion of ignition switch. Cover the area except the breakoff points and drill with a 1/4" carbide bit (buy 3-4 extras). Or you may try something I thought of, after the fact. If you have a Dremel, get a cutoff bit, and cut a slot in the breakoff bolt. This may allow you to screw-driver the bold out. Alternately, you may be able to use the dremel, and cut the aluminum housing just inside of the breakoff points. Aluminum is, as you all are aware, very cuttable.

I am not a Volvo tech, and it took me just under 2 hours, but credit and experience where it is due. I broke off the column tilt adjustment lever with my knee. Something a tech would not have done.

I still believe the need to order it from Sweden thing is a bunch of b.s. though. I got my cylinder in 3 business days, and it only cost $103 U.S. So, either Volvo loses money on these because they know the part stinks and want to try to make good, or a very economical means is utilized (see Valeo factory in Michigan, or wherever it is) to procure the cylinders. It is a Valeo replacement (name is written right on it), manufactured in Germany, shipped "gutless" to the US, and then built up as necessary based on orders coming from Dealer. IMO

From Volvo, you get a key coded ignition switch for your car so you use the same key that fits in your other locks. Your switch would have another key so now, it needs two keys to lock/unlock and drive that car.

NO, the cylinder was coded to my key so, I still only have one key. The body of the cylinder is cast seperate from the insides that go in it later thus, the inside part can be build to your key as needed, and by whomever Volvo contracts to do it.

That's interesting as I was unaware of any aftermarket company that was doing that. Hopefully it's a better part.

I got it through a dealership so, I believe Volvo now uses Valeo as the OEM on this part. Hopefully, it will last at least 5 years. I've heard of people having this part fail after less than 18 months so, I don't feel so bad when I consider mine lasted over 5.

Guess I fail to understand why you seemed to think or imply that the part you bought from your dealership is any different than what any other Volvo dealership normally orders then....it's the exact same part (same manufacturer). All that you saved is labor charges.
I've never seen new ignition lock cylinders fail after being replaced so I don't know where you're getting that info.

All I am saying is, I do not believe that the part has to be ordered from Volvo Sweden. I never said it was not the exact same part, because it is. The switch that failed on my car was the original that came with the car, and I noticed that it was made by a different mfg (Ymos) than the replacement I just got which is Valeo. Maybe back in the day, before the Ford T/O, you had to get the replacement from Sweden, but I seriously doubt that it the case anymore.

All I saved, at least monetarily, was labor? Yes, that is correct.

But, what I learned was far and above the value of the labor savings. Even if I never replace this again, and that is my hope, I'm happy knowing I was able to do it, and maybe, just maybe, help another Brick owner with the same problem by sharing my experience. I hope this clears any misconceptions.

I was under the impression that the lock cylinder itself was simply drilled into and then yanked out. If your procedure is what is actually done, then that explains it. I did see thesee two black "boltheads" on top of the column area when I removed the plastic covers. Is that what you are referring to?

The others are correct and your assumption is wrong, you do NOT drill out the tumblers as that'd do you no good. I've done that too on other cars and that's also not exactly easy either. Volvo sells it as as assembly, the complete part that bolts around the steering column and removing it is usually not easy. They also use lock-tight on those bolts from the factory so you then can't just unscrew them with a chissel.
IF it was so easy, why not call a locksmith to do it? Those guys will do that on SOME cars but most won't ever try on Volvos after ONE bad prior experience. I'd rather not do it myself if I could get out of it when I see those, not one of my favorite jobs.

Ok. You convinced me. When the lock comes in, I'll head down to the dealer with my checkbook in hand and have them do the job. Naturally, this would happen several weeks after my extended warranty files bankruptcy (WarrantyGold's insurer, National Warranty). This would have been a covered repair!

Believe it not, I've heard higher labor to do that. The reason is because Volvo uses break-off bolt heads that snap off when they tighten the two bolts to hold that part in place and to top it off, it's hardened steel too so not exactly easy to drill. I've ruined a few drill bits on those myself, it's time consuming and there's a mess of steel fragments to clean up afterwords.
Volvo did that to keep theives from having an easy time trying to do that BUT it's also not easy for Volvo techs either.

See my response to the other post above.

While I haven't seen the Volvo setup for this, your description sounds like a setup that other manufacturers use. I just did the exact same procedure on an Acura Legend (break off bolts, etc) and it took me a good three hours. Volvo might be faulted for some things, but the sarcasm (another fine Volvo engineering feat) may not be fair this time.

my two cents.