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Synthetic transmission fluid S70

I have always used synthetic oil (Mobil 1) in my 1999 T5SE. I have read that it is a good ides to switch to synth in the tranny also. Can someone recommend a good synth trans fluid?

Thanx








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    Synthetic transmission fluid S70

    With all due respect to Dave, he is wrong.

    Synthetic ATF will stand up to much higher temperatures without oxidizing. It will flow more freely at low temperatures, and it will reduce internal wear.

    Ideally, you want to replace transmission fluid before it ever shows signs of oxidation (turning brown/smelling badly). With non-synthetic, changing what drops out of the pan every 15-20,000 miles is cheap insurance.

    If you go back through the old messages, you will find some data provided by one of a Volvo shop mechanic, who routinely tests discolored fluid and in every case the lab said to change the fluid. Best I can recall, he also said that they had not replaced a transmission with good fluid--only those which had bad fluid.

    Almost everyone on the Saab BB "knows" that the older Saab automatics would need replacement/rebuild after 80-85,000 miles. I have just under 200K on my 1985 turbo---running AMSOIL synthetic ATF since it was almost new.








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      AntiSynth Unabasher Luddites S70

      Stay your ground, when you know you're right. Amsoil ATF is unbelievable. Those never initiated should have no opinion.
      --
      92-944, 94-944, 97-960 - Amsoil lubes throughout,, K & N air filters, Silverstar headlights, Green Diamond Tires








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      Synthetic transmission fluid S70

      > Synthetic ATF will stand up to much higher temperatures without oxidizing.

      That is true. Too bad our application does not subject the ATF to "much higher
      temperatures", otherwise the use of synthetic ATF might be of some benefit in
      our cars...

      Better to make sure the cooling system is functioning properly than to fortify
      the car against high temperatures it should never see (unless you make a habit
      out of towing trailers out of Death Valley in the Summer in 1st gear, that is).

      > It will flow more freely at low temperatures, and it will reduce internal wear.

      I've never heard of anyone's AT not flowing (the AT not working) because of
      low temperatures. 30 years ago, at -15 dF, it was common for a Dexron-filled
      AT's first 2 or 3 shifts to be a little sluggish. But that was a rare situation
      for most users, and of no overall significance to transmission (or ATF)
      longevity. I'm not sure what is the coldest temp my car's ever woken up to, but
      it's never exhibited that sluggish-first-few-shifts behavior (though valve
      actuation via solenoids [in modern ATs] rather than fluid pressure probably makes
      this a more complete non-issue anyway).

      As for reducing internal wear, synthetic engine oil accomplishes that via reduced
      friction. But, as I've already pointed out in this thread, ATF must not be too
      slippery. So please, Dick, explain to me the "reduce internal wear" dynamics.

      > Ideally, you want to replace transmission fluid before it ever shows signs of oxidation (turning brown/smelling badly).

      By that logic, Dexron should be replaced every day, because it will show signs
      of oxidation after its first use. By that logic, ATs without synethetic ATF
      would all be dropping like flies -- you'd encounter one blocking a lane or two
      on every rush-hour drive. But since we don't, your logic appears to pertain, at
      best, to a theoretical ideal in a perfect world, where everything lasts forever,
      but not to the real world.

      > With non-synthetic, changing what drops out of the pan every 15-20,000 miles is cheap insurance.

      Well, 30 years ago that was true, but due to the advances in Dexron and ATs
      (especially lock-up torque converters), it is now totally unnecessary; overkill;
      the mark of an obsessive over-maintainer. WORSE, the ATF remaining in the
      opened system will have been given a lot of fresh oxygen with which to combine,
      which exactly what you do NOT want to do if you are concerned about the longevity
      of Dexron. (Dexron ages primarily by comgining with oxygen, which tends to
      happen in direct proportion to the presence of elevated temperatures and the
      availability of oxygen.)

      So I equate your "cheap insurance" with "bad advice".

      > If you go back through the old messages, you will find some data provided by one of a Volvo shop mechanic, who routinely tests discolored fluid and in every case the lab said to change the fluid.

      That "lab" had a trained monkey who did the tests visually...!

      Sounds like yet another obsessively-worrying-about-Dexron waste of money to me,
      as it conflicts with not only my experience, but the advice of the auto-maker
      (Volvo, who'd have already gone bankrupt if these ATs couldn't go 50+K mi w/o an
      ATF change), the AT-maker (Aisin-Warner, whose transmissions have been coveted
      by numerous auto manufacturers), and the ATF-maker (GM, maker of Dexron, who says
      that modern Dexron can [out-] last the life of the vehicle).

      Volvo's leave-it-alone recommendation was not made in a vacuum, but supported and
      recommended by the folks who make the ATs and the ATF.

      > Best I can recall, he also said that they had not replaced a transmission with good fluid--only those which had bad fluid.

      There you go again, confusing cause and effect:

      When/as a transmission dies/fails, it kills (overheats; cooks) its ATF through
      excess slippage due to transmission malfunction. So if the transmission
      malfunctions and needs replacement, it's very likely already killed its ATF. The
      fact that they had not replaced a transmission with good fluid does not mean that
      constant fluid changes will prevent transmission malfunction. It merely means
      that if the transmission does not malfunction, there will not be anything wrong
      with the AT or with the ATF.

      > Almost everyone on the Saab BB "knows" that the older Saab automatics would need replacement/rebuild after 80-85,000 miles

      Almost everyone knows that this does not pertain to our Aisin-Warner
      transmissions.

      Bottom line: transmissions can kill themselves (and their ATF), but ATF does
      not kill transmissions without some kind of abuse or other anomaly.

      Dexron dies when/after it is exposed to excessive temperatures. Under anything
      approaching normal use, the ATF in our transmissions is not exposed to excessive
      temperatures. (If your doctor offered you synthetic blood that would allow you
      to remain comfortable in ambient temps of 150 dF, would you be interested?)

      I'm happy for you and your Saab transmission, but there is no proof that your
      synthetic ATF is in any way responsible for its having lived this long, though,
      having purchased a car with a known transmission frailty (actually, it was when
      a driver engaged Drive while rolling backwards or Reverse when still rolling
      forward, as when rocking the car when it was stuck, that was the known killer
      of those transmissions
      ), I'm sure it's given you a little more peace of mind.

      But our AW transmissions have no such known frailties. Our AW transmissions are
      strong, sturdy, robust...

      So, again, a confusion between cause and effect, plus a little misapplied
      generalizing across different brands of ATs, plus an unproven believe that a
      certain kind of snake oil can be credited for logevity (I cannot prove that the
      DurAlt fuel conditioner I use has resulted in an engine that consumes no oil
      after 131K mi) can make synthetic ATF seem like some kind of panacea.

      Plenty of folks who've experienced failing transmissions have changed their ATF,
      hoping to reverse the well-esstablished cause-effect relationship between failing
      ATs and burned up ATF. It's never done any good, though it may make the
      transmission shifts feel slightly better for a very brief period. I've never
      heard of any case in which the AT had problems and had blackened the ATF but how
      replacing the standard/black ATF with synethetic cured anything. That's because
      thick/black ATF is a symptom (effect), not a cause, of AT problems.

      I've run my car hard up Pikes Peak more times than the rest of you combined.
      (Running hard, uphill, on the boost, in thin air [lessened cooling] for 20 miles
      of switchbacks is as close to towing a trailer out of Death Valley as my car will
      ever get.) I have changed the ATF (flushed w/fresh cheap Dexron) exactly once
      in 131K mi. I have never sucked/introduced fresh air into my AT's 'closed'
      hydraulic system. My car's A-W automatic transmission is doing just fine, thank
      you very much.

      If you regularly tow a 3000# trailer with your car's Aisin Warner AT, synthetic
      ATF would make some sense (though so would a higher capacity transmission
      cooler, or a more suitable tow vehicle).

      - Dave; '95 854T, 131K mi


      PS: I am not a (re)seller of any kind of ATF, nor am in interested in spending
      excessive funds in an vain attempt (factually-based or not) to make my car's AT
      last 2 million miles.








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    Synthetic transmission fluid S70

    It's not wise to generalize the advantages of synthetic engine oil to synthetic
    transmission oil, for the following reasons:

    1. The major advantage of synth engine oil is reduced friction. However, ATF must
    NOT be too slippery; it must be possess the right degree of "grabbiness".

    2. A major advantage of synth engine oil is its ability to remain much more fully
    effective as it becomes diluted/polluted/contaminated by combustion byproducts,
    which does not pertain to ATF. Compared to the harsh environment in which engine
    oil lives, ATF lives in a bubble.

    3. Except for towing a trailer in hilly terrain, or racing up Pikes Peak, the ATF
    in our cars loafs; it is not highly stressed, either thermally (good cooling) or
    physically (the TC is nearly always locked up, except [briefly] in 1st gear).

    I've run my car hard up Pikes Peak (my prev car, which had no such heat shield
    over the turbo, had the turbo housing glowing pale red after similar but slightly
    slower runs halfway up the mtn). I let this AT flush its own ATF at 61K mi.
    There have been fewer real hard runs up PP since then, but it's been 70K mi
    since that ATF flush and the AT/ATF is still just fine; I have no current plans
    to do anything with/to/for it.

    So my recommendation is to not waste your money and -- if you feel the need to
    do ATF maintenance at all -- just let the AT flush/replace its own inexpensive
    Dexron every 70K mi when the car is preventively taken out of service anyway for
    timing belt repl. That seems to be more than enough to keep the AT/ATF happy and
    healthy (though my car does not regularly see ambient temps over 100 dF), making
    it a good compromise between the over-maintainers and the never-maintainers.

    The paradox is this: if you decide the ATF is feeble and needs to be somehow
    fortified, will you then want to let this more-expensive, fortified ATF stay in
    there forever? Wouldn't you be better off replacing the cheap std ATF every
    3-5 years than leaving the expensive stuff in forever? (BTW, if you're one of
    those folks whose accountant will tell them to get a new car in 3 years anyway,
    you won't keep your car long enough for any of this discussion to really matter
    to you. We had one poster here who actually drained a little ATF out and topped
    it off with each oil change. This is probably the worst thing you could do to
    your transmission. But he got a more expensive car before the warranty on his
    850 expired...) And if you have so much money that you can afford to flush
    (treat as disposable) the expensive synthetic ATF, then I don't really believe
    that you are losing any sleep worrying about the remote possibility of being
    stuck with an expensive transmission repair anyway. (If I'm wrong about this,
    you should consider buying extended warranty coverage, and also a lot of lottery
    tickets, which also seem like a good deal to the arithmetically-challenged. But
    if you can afford disposable synthetic ATF, you can probably afford to
    self-insure...)

    FWIW, my car's ATF seems to be ageing more slowly over the past 70K mi than it
    did over the first 60K. So it would be unwise to examine the fluid at 25K mi
    and come to the extrapolated conclusion that the ATF will never make it to 50K
    mi.

    But I strongly urge you to resist the temptation to over-maintain these ATs;
    they were meant to be seen (and do best when treated) as a 'sealed' system (IOW,
    they do best when simply left alone, hence Volvo's insane-sounding recommendation
    to simply leave them alone).

    Of course, to do so will mean resisting the advice of those who've been unable
    to resist said temptation, which is tricky once you realize how the "pros" only
    see the few that fail (a tiny percentage of these things ever have problems,
    and only a small percentage of those have anything to do with ATF, and few of
    those would have been any better off had they used synth ATF), but the power of
    the internet magnifies these tiny minority bad experiences out of proportion.

    If your AT is really chewing up its ATF, and your car is still under warranty,
    it would not be in your interest to spend extra money to conceal the problem by
    treating a symptom. In these cars, a bad transmission can cause the ATF to bake,
    but failure to change the ATF is only responsible for transmission failure in
    very rare circumstances (do you tow a 3000# trailer up hills very often?).

    Too many of those giving advice believe in superstitious/profitable/gratuitous
    ATF changes because they are more sure of the cost of a replacement transmission
    than they are of the cause-effect relationship between failing ATs and failing
    ATF.

    Dexron is the most over-engineered fluid in your car. And in our cars, the ATF
    just doesn't get worked very hard in anything even remotely resembling normal
    use.

    BTW, I'm on my 2nd turbo car. The last one had a nearly-identical Aisin-Warner
    transmission. Each car always had Mobil One in the crankcase and std Dexron in
    the AT. I now have over a quarter of a million not-always-sedate miles
    accumulated over the 2 vehicles without any ATF-related (exhaust manifold
    gasketing problems and blown head gasket on the prev car don't count...)
    incidents.

    Changing the ATF every other month and not having problems only proves that the
    maintainer managed to not screw anything up. Going 70+K mi at a stretch using
    std Dexron w/o any problems suggests that the over-maintainers probably fall into
    one of the following categories: profit-hungry professional maintainers, or
    superstitious worry-wart owners with too much time/money on their hands.

    As long as your ATF isn't thick, dark, burnt-smelling (a hint of burnt smell is
    normal; it's a nose-curling smell of which you should be wary), it is what it
    should be. And as long as it isn't thick/dark/burnt, the AT really doesn't give
    a ___t how bright cherry red the ATF is! Of all the properties of hydraulic
    fluid (which is ATF's primary mission in life), color is not operationally
    significant.

    Back in the old days, before ATs had lockup torque converters (TCs) and thus
    the ATF was constantly being chewed up the whole time the car was being driven,
    the std/sane/proven recommendation was to replace the ATF every 2 years or so.
    Decades later, ATF is *much* improved, and leads a relatively sheltered, rarely
    barely stressed, existence.

    It would be absurd to not leave the ATF in service for years at a time.

    - Dave; '95 854T, 131K mi








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      Synthetic transmission fluid S70

      Thanx for the insight. I'm not an over maintainer, I just want to do the best thing(s) for my vehicle.








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    Synthetic transmission fluid S70

    As a biased Amsoil dealer I recommend Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF. It has better wear and flow characteristics than Mobil 1.
    --
    http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html








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    Synthetic transmission fluid S70

    I use Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF in all my vehicles - 3 Volvos. It is expensive, it is worth it, no one sells anything better than it that I know of, there is nothing that compares to it. The trans. runs cooler and smoother than any other regular or synthetic ATF I have ever used. Go for it.

    I do not sell the product.

    Bill Johnston
    --
    92-944, 94-944, 97-960 - Amsoil lubes throughout,, K & N air filters, Silverstar headlights, Green Diamond Tires








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    Synthetic transmission fluid S70

    Do you have the 5 speed automatic or the regular 4 speed? The 5 speeds use a special type of synthetic. I'll look up the standard. A couple othe rimport cars use the same. It's got special additives for the lock up convertor and for smoother engagement.








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      Synthetic transmission fluid S70

      It's an automatic. Looks like the Mobil 1 is available in most stores. I guess I'll have open my eyes next time. Do you know what the OEM fluid is?








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        Synthetic transmission fluid S70

        OEM fluid for automatics is Volvo synthetic gearbox oil 97337, Dexron IIE type ATF. I'd also call your local dealer and ask what they use, Volvo OE fluid or other.

        Manual fluid, fyi, is Volvo synthetic 97308

        -Pat
        --
        '99 S70 T5M, '83 245 DL







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